- I got an istick 50 a little over a month ago. I use .2-.3ohm builds on a mutation x v3. Just of yesterday, when I fire it at my usual 42.0w it goes “low power” at around 3.2 seconds on a full charge. Then the battery indicator reads full again and repeat on next firing at 3.2sec firing. If I lower the wattage it’ll fire longer but still does the same. Like at 30w it’ll fire for about 4.5s before low power kicks in. Is the batteries having too much amp draw and kicking on a safety? As my battery drains this happens at lower firing times. Worked great up until yesterday. Any ideas? Do I need new batteries? Any help is appreciated.
problem with istick 50w
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These are not high end mods, they state 50w, but from what I've read don't go over 25w to 30w. They have a problem getting rid of the heat on the boards, and fail. I wouldn't sub ohm on one either. I have a high end box mod with an evolve board for my sub ohm use.
Yeah you get what you pay for. It was what I could afford at the time, and it was a step up from my mvp 2.0. What regulated box mod do you recommend for sub ohm vaping? I was looking at segelei 150w or an ipv3, but if there are better one's for around the $100 mark that'd be great.
I also used to use the MutationX 2 & 3 on an iStick 50, but I wasn't getting the production I desired. I ended up getting a SMOK XPro M80 Plus and I'm IN LOVE with it. It fires down to a .1 Ohm (never tried), has 2 built-in 18650 batteries, and also has temp control. The Original M80 was a piece from what I read, but the Plus model is AWESOME! I overpaid for mine locally, but it usually goes for $60 - $100. Well worth it.
What kind of build do you have on there at .2/.3 that you are firing in the 40w range? (Gauge kanthal, ID of coil, etc)
I was looking at the smok m80 plus. I found an online vendor with the new v6 models for $49.99. Might have to do that. I loved my istick 50w until it did this. I was actually considering getting another since they are $39. Then I started looking at the xpro m80. I'm not ready to drop $100+ for a mod yet. Got bills to pay haha.
I'm running 26g kanthal in parallel at 3/32. 6 wraps for .2 ohm via dual coil. And about 7 or 8 wraps gives me .3ohms.
I run a .2 ohm build at 42w which is 2.8 volts. I started at 30w and for high pg juice I run at 30-33w but high vg tastes good between 40-45w at .2ohm. I don't like higher ohm builds on my mutation x v3. I just need a better device for sub ohm vaping. I've built .8ohm and .6ohm coils..just don't like them as much.
42watts x 0.2ohm = 2.89volts and 14.5 amps seems sorta within limits
are you in voltage locked mode? (up/down buttons pressed same time) did you try a 0.5ohm coil? how many times have you recharged the device?
tell us more.
just to add something, according to what I just read over at vapingcheap, a batt of 22A can't take a build lower than 0.19. The resistance of 0.2 build can change just with jostling around or with heat. (you probably know that tho) I don't know if the i50 is like the i20 or i30, but both of them run hotter than it says it's running, so 42 watts might be something else, like 49 (see here: Eleaf Istick - Easy Mean to RMS Conversion Formulas | E-Cigarette Forum ).
are you in voltage locked mode? (up/down buttons pressed same time) did you try a 0.5ohm coil? how many times have you recharged the device?
tell us more.
just to add something, according to what I just read over at vapingcheap, a batt of 22A can't take a build lower than 0.19. The resistance of 0.2 build can change just with jostling around or with heat. (you probably know that tho) I don't know if the i50 is like the i20 or i30, but both of them run hotter than it says it's running, so 42 watts might be something else, like 49 (see here: Eleaf Istick - Easy Mean to RMS Conversion Formulas | E-Cigarette Forum ).
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The temp control isn't a big selling point for me. It's why I dont care the TC doesn't work properly in the smok m80's lol. But ipv3 or 4 seems like a good buy. Hearing alot of good things about them.
No my voltage isn't locked. I looked up the amp rating but seems nobody knows lol. There are a couple of threads asking that same question with no definitive answer. If I would do a .5 ohm build I'm sure the device would power for about 7-8 seconds which is almost the max 10sec safetly. I'm basing that off of the fact with a .2 build it kicks off at 3.4sec on a full charge and with a .3 build it goes 4.2 sec. I've had it for about 40 days and only need to charge it every other day. So like 20 charges. My issue was this device fired .2 builds like a champ no problem until a few days ago. When I chain vaped the rda would get hot and the battery would be warm, but I never had it to the point where the temp protection kicked in. When I felt it get a little warm I put it down for awhile. Also if I have it plugged in and vape, it doesn't go into power low protection so it's probably not being triggered by over amp protection. Since I didn't design this or seen schematics I'm not sure exactly what triggers these safety modes. Just seems odd that it worked with .2 and .3 builds fine for a month and now acts up. Almost seems like the batteries are having a high drain. Might get a new device then solder in a pair of vtc5's into the istick and see what happens.
do you think it could be something as simple (and dangerous) as the batts divorcing? I really don't like devices where I can't remove batteries. Gives me the heebie-jeebies.
I don't know a lot about the istick but when I start reading about a high failure rate in a device, it perks my interest. And the istick seems to be having all sorts of random problems, everything from autofiring to not firing unless the button is mashed hard to random workings to actual fires. It can't all be from leaking juice, right? And then there are other folks happy as lambs with their sticks.
If you go over to the istick50 owner's thread, there's a tear-down or two you might find interesting. Eleaf istick 50w Owners Group | Page 60 | E-Cigarette Forum
I don't know a lot about the istick but when I start reading about a high failure rate in a device, it perks my interest. And the istick seems to be having all sorts of random problems, everything from autofiring to not firing unless the button is mashed hard to random workings to actual fires. It can't all be from leaking juice, right? And then there are other folks happy as lambs with their sticks.
If you go over to the istick50 owner's thread, there's a tear-down or two you might find interesting. Eleaf istick 50w Owners Group | Page 60 | E-Cigarette Forum
Yeah I was on Ms. Nikita's page where she did a complete disassembly. I agree with not liking fixed batteries. Your right, alot of ppl are having issues with these. That's why I'm extremely hesitant about buying one from fast tech. They have clones out too but are only $3 cheaper. Thanks for the link. I'll definitely check it out.
I use my Istick50 with my MutX at .3ohm all the time and have not had a prob at all with it yet.
And hard to tell what the batteries are
Yeah mine worked great too until recently. I might get another one if the price comes down. It's already pretty affordable. I can still use it, just pulse the button for 2 seconds. Or take 3 second ripps. Just was used to power lunging for 6-7 seconds for massive clouds. Can't do that anymore.
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