Proetus's DNA20

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Proetus

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So i have most of my parts needed in order to build my DNA20, so i figured i would get started! It is my first build so don't expect greatness! No need to list my parts as most of them are linked in many of the other posts. Sadly i didn't get to far. I have come to the realization that my cheap ... soldering iron isn't up to the task. I didn't have a problem soldering the pin on the top cap, my problem came when attempting to solder the negative to the stainless steel. Even with a a microtorch for additional heat it wasn't making a good bond and would come off with the slightest pressure once cooled. It could be my iron or that i couldn't find any flux. I will order some flux and a new iron and then see where it gets me. Once i realized i wasn't going to be able to do the top cap, i figured i would tin my wires and do the dna20 leads. Well i was having a problem even tinning the wires so i called it a night. I was able to get my top cap in, however slightly misaligned it may be and the positive wire on the pin. More updates to come once i get a new iron and the flux.

Any tips or hints certainly feel free!



 

Proetus

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Picked up some helping hands on amazon, as the ones i made with clips, copper wire and solder fell apart! Some harris flux from airgas (thanks Mike!) and a new solder station from Hobbyking. Hopefully that will do the trick!

New Iron

Would have loved to get a Weller but the vape budget hands were going up and down! Hopefully that will do for me!
 
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Katanakaji

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soldering directly to stainless for electronics use is not recommended. most of the time, rosin flux won't cut through the oxidation layer of the stainless resulting in solder that will not adhere, and you should not use acid flux for electronics since it can destroy things over time. it might be easier to just drill/tap a small hole into the bottom of your cap, and then use a screw to hold your negative lead.
 

Proetus

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Small update!



I wasn't expecting my soldering iron until fri/sat so i have been procrastinating! Well it arrived today, so i figured i should get moving! I got the Fire button installed as well as the up/down wattage buttons. Pictures show a KFL on top. Never mind the tape, it's there so i don't scratch up the paint. You can ignore the busted ... unfinished wall in the background too, im in the basement!

One question i did have about the smaller adjustment buttons, they have 4 tabs on em, does it matter which side you use?

Maybe more later, we'll see off to make some food.


 

shynsly

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Looks Great! Cant wait to get my dna 30 to start modding in my basement...right next to the laboratory!

Small update!



I wasn't expecting my soldering iron until fri/sat so i have been procrastinating! Well it arrived today, so i figured i should get moving! I got the Fire button installed as well as the up/down wattage buttons. Pictures show a KFL on top. Never mind the tape, it's there so i don't scratch up the paint. You can ignore the busted ... unfinished wall in the background too, im in the basement!

One question i did have about the smaller adjustment buttons, they have 4 tabs on em, does it matter which side you use?

Maybe more later, we'll see off to make some food.
 

bapgood

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The 20g wire is pretty tough to get into the holes in the DNA, you can't have pre tinned holes or wire and then you have to be one lucky sob.

The best way I have found if I want to go into the holes is to use the 22g spot to strip the shielding and a few of the wires.

However typically I don't want to go thru the holes, because I want the wire to be going a certain direction without needing to bend coming off the board. So I fill the hole with solder plus a little bit to make a little dome on top of the hole/pad, then I tin the wire, then solder to the pad.
 

bapgood

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I also think i need a touch bigger tip for the iron. It's a real fine point and takes a bit for whatever material i am soldering to heat up.

Did you order some real Hakko tips or are you just using the ones that came with it?

From the reviews I read it sounded like the tips that came with it were crap. You can get an assortment of Hakko tips for about $10 shipped, also get a brass ball tip cleaner if you don't have one. Take care of your tips and they will last a long time.
 

Proetus

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I'm so gd irritated right now. I removed the 22awg wires from battery input to "attempt" to solder on some 20awg wires for the input from the battery, i can not solder these gd things on for the life of me. Either the tip on this thing is so gd horrible that it isn't heating things up properly or i just suck at soldering. I ordered new tips and a cleaner, gonna put this down before i break the dam thing.

Back to waiting for parts.
 
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