Protank 2 coil not getting airflow...

[jcp42877]

I just noticed my spare 2.2 ohm coil has the "newer" clear grommet on the bottom, and not the off-white ones the later ones did. When screwed into the pro tank base, then screwed onto my mod, i get absolutely no air flow. when i unscrew my PT2, i can feel a steady flow when I suck air in, or blow it out.

I remember seeing people have issues with these new heads...so, are there any fixes? I mean, I can unscrew my tank until its so wobbly its about to fall off the 510 threads of the mod, and I still have a solid blocked off flow...

 

[Rickajho]

The problem is that newer, squishier material can become compressed. When it does and you screw it into the PT base the compressed part blocks air from drawing down between the wall of the PT thread area and the coil assembly itself. That's the channel as to how air gets from the holes above the 510 threads and down to the center hole in the very bottom of the coil assembly.

Screwing the PT onto the 510 connector too much - only once - is enough to compress the exposed part of the insulator and create the problem. There isn't a lot of room there between the wall of the PT base and the coil assembly so - doesn't take much of a compression to create this problem. Fixing it? You can try pulling the metal center post the tiniest bit - straight out - do not twist the center post or you risk breaking the legs on the coil - to release the compression. Then try it on your 510 connector again, being very careful not to tighten too far. Or you can try shaving off some of the insulator material at the bottom where the center post is located.

 

[jcp42877]

Well i found the problem....i looked at the 2.5 ohm coil i have that was included in the PT2 kit, and the 2.2 spare one, and i noticed the 2.2 head's threads are more spaced out, and end closer to the very bottom of the coil assembly, whereas the 2.5 coil's are more bunched up and closer to where the removable o-ring goes, right under the widest circle part of the assembly.

I don't know if these are the wrong coils for the PT2 or what (maybe PT 1 coils?)...i ordered them fro my local shop, as that was the ONLY option for Protank coils on their site, and i know they carry PT2 coils in their B&M stores, so i have no clue what went wrong. And this isn't the only one that had that problem...it came in a 2 pack, and the other 2.2 ohm coil had the same no airflow issue.

 

[Rickajho]

PT1 & 2 or the mini versions thereof and EVOD all use the same coil. However the coil for the T3s/MT3s is different in a very fundamental way. The metal washer right below the wick sticking out is a smaller diameter on the T3s head. If you put a PT et al head next to a T3s head you can see the difference in the size of that washer. The fitting on the bases is correspondingly different.

If you put a T3s head with the smaller washer into a PT or EVOD base the metal washer is too small. That can result in flooding and the coil screwing too far into the base. The other way around, if you put a PT coil into a T3s/MT3s base the washer is too large and rides on top of the fitting it's supposed to go down into. That can result in flooding or the positive post riding too high and not making electrical contact with the battery.

If the metal washer looks to be the same diameter on both your coils it's just possible you got a badly machined coil, based on your description of the threads. It happens. The threading area doesn't look any different between any of the coils - or at least it shouldn't.. The only difference between those two types of Kanger coils is the diameter of the metal washer below the wicks.

 

[StandingOnTheMoon]

I had the same problem with the coils that came with the tank and other newer ones that I had, no airflow at all. This solved the problem completely 510 to 510 , and you can tighten everything down like it's supposed to be.