Protank 2 leaks like a sieve, hard draw

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catlady60

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The last couple of times I used my Protank 2, it's been leaking so badly I lost about a ml of juice--with a hard draw to boot. The juice I've been vaping is 20/80 PG/VG and I only had this major leakage and hard draw problem since I got the thick juice. How can I fix this without having to get a air control valve?
 

CalamityJess

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I was at my local shop today, and the owner mentioned he got a bunch of Protank III bases in because of this. There was aparently a batch of PT2 that had one air hole so badly drilled it wasn't drawing air. He gave me one (free since I got my tank there) and it worked llike a charm. i've also heard getting an aerotank base helps with these issues. Just saved my protank, with the same symptoms, and I was using 70/30 pg/vg.
 

catlady60

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That seems to be a problem with high VG juices. I try to stick to high PG, but I'll mix a high VH with a high PG to balance it out a little

Looks as if I'll have to get some high PG juices to mix with the high VG ones. This way, I can make it 50/50. Maybe that'll solve the problem.
 

Dampmaskin

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There was aparently a batch of PT2 that had one air hole so badly drilled it wasn't drawing air.

Yeah, I think I got me one of those, but it wasn't the air hole per se. I gave it some quality time with a rotary tool earlier today, and now it works fine.

The hole in the PT2 base, that the connector of the atomizer head goes down into, is too narrow. When the positive pin on the atomizer is pressed against the positive battery terminal, the isolating grommet in the base of the atomizer head is compressed and widenes, blocking the airflow in the base. The underpressure doesn't even reach the air holes on the sides of the 510 connector.

I widened the inside of the 510 connector on the PT2 base a little bit on both sides, sort of making a couple of channels from the air holes and straight down. That did the trick.

This is the PT2 base. The inside of the middle tube is what needs to be widened, from the base of the 510 connector up to the air holes.
pt2base-fixed-only.jpg

I solved it by grinding away some metal from the area marked with red, and vice versa for the other air hole.
pt2base-fixed-only-marked.jpg
 
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Norry

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I had the same problem with hard to no draw at all. I really think it's a common problem with the PTII cause I see complaints all over the place. Kanger has an Airflow control valve on their website. I got one for each of my tanks and fingers crossed, I've had no problems with the draw since. I also had occasional leaks and have had none of those either since I got the valves. Just fyi, the valves are adjustable for less or more airflow. Since it's a common problem I really wish they'd just go ahead and sell the tanks with the adjustable valve. :)
 

Hondahawkrider

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I had the same problem with hard to no draw at all. I really think it's a common problem with the PTII cause I see complaints all over the place. Kanger has an Airflow control valve on their website. I got one for each of my tanks and fingers crossed, I've had no problems with the draw since. I also had occasional leaks and have had none of those either since I got the valves. Just fyi, the valves are adjustable for less or more airflow. Since it's a common problem I really wish they'd just go ahead and sell the tanks with the adjustable valve. :)

I hated my kanger pt2/3 and even tired a smotech trophy (given to me- which I didn't know was a copy of a protank 1, but it was better but only slightly). They would gurgle, leak and on draw I'd taste fluid(but I may draw harder as a cigar smoker).. I have since saved em... I got the air control calve (kanger) that allows me to regulate the air... They work fantastic now...

Wierd deal, tho I was out and dropped my svd and broke my tank.. It was my smoktech so I couldn't replace just the glass... As I wasn't close to home and near a shop, I got an kanger aerotank (limited selection) tank that comes with the valve.. It worked like crap... I have since taken it apart, cleaned it with hot water and then dried off and now works great... /shrug... Try a new coil (or rebuild it), after a wash and dry, with the air control valve and you might be ok...
 

edyle

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The last couple of times I used my Protank 2, it's been leaking so badly I lost about a ml of juice--with a hard draw to boot. The juice I've been vaping is 20/80 PG/VG and I only had this major leakage and hard draw problem since I got the thick juice. How can I fix this without having to get a air control valve?

I use miniprotank base on my protanks to solve the airflow problems inherent in the 510 threadwell.
But I wonder if what you're getting is more to do with the wicks.
 

CalamityJess

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I use miniprotank base on my protanks to solve the airflow problems inherent in the 510 threadwell.
But I wonder if what you're getting is more to do with the wicks.

How do you do that? I was looking at mine and it doesn't seem possible...lol
 

edyle

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How do you do that? I was looking at mine and it doesn't seem possible...lol

The base of the protank is actually eGo thread, so is the base of the miniprotank, so is the base of the EVOD.
Take any of those tank with the base off and they screw directly onto an ego battery. It's the same screw thread.

Pic - one of my protanks on miniprotank base
302467d1391538435-hello-everyone-img_20140204_141115.jpg
 
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CalamityJess

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The base of the protank is actually eGo thread, so is the base of the miniprotank, so is the base of the EVOD.
Take any of those tank with the base off and they screw directly onto an ego battery. It's the same screw thread.

Pic - one of my protanks on miniprotank base
302467d1391538435-hello-everyone-img_20140204_141115.jpg

i tried that with my PT2 and Protank Mini II (v2) but it won't fire. Cool idea for those that can though!
 

CalamityJess

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