Protank 2 Question

[Arch]

I'm not sure if this is the correct section to ask this question, but I didn't see a more relevant place to ask a "nooby" question.

My issue is with my Protank 2. Let me tell you that it's absolutely amazing in every single way, IF the amount of juice in the tank is above half full. For some reason, once it goes below that, it starts giving me problems with gurgling/flooding/leaking. I take a drag off it and all I'd get is gurgly juice coming up the pipe into my mouth. I then have to take apart my device completely, clean it, blow out the coil and then re-attach every thing before it goes back to normal. Sometimes it happens again 15 minutes later and I have to re-do the process if I don't have my juice to re-fill the tank to full.

I was directed to buy the KangerTech AeroTank Base to remedy this issue. It's compatible with my Protank 2 and apparently it helps a ton with leaking. Is this true? Will this remedy my issue without having to do complicated things? It's like $6 so I don't mind buying it, but I don't want to buy it and have it be a waste of time.

What should I do? I don't want to stray away from Kanger tanks or get the Kanger Protank Mini, because I have so many coils pre-bought for the tank I have. That and my Mom uses the mini, so I'm never buying that feminine tank in my life.

 

[TheReign]

It should make a big difference for sure. I think I read online the center pin is sealed or something or other so that it doesn't leak into the battery. As far as the gurgle take it off your battery gran a paper towel and blow into the mouth piece while holding the towel at the other end. Should clear out your gurgle. Careful not to let any juice go into the center post while refilling it.

 

[Harley0227]

Try flipping the rubber grommet over that's on top of the coil, and reduce your suction on your draw, that might help. It worked for my issue anyhow lol.

 

[Larry777]

All my PT2's have the same issue. I was told it was because it works off a vacuum principle. My solution was to simply keep the tanks full and when I wanted to clean or switch flavors, just take the base off, tip it sideways a little and suck out the juice back into a holding bottle.
Plan B for me was to just let it drain own and re-seal for a while to re-establish a new vacuum level so I could run down any juices I didn't have more of, if you "burp it" for a few minutes, it seems to start the half-tank timer over.
I also picked up an Evod and was told I could use the "original" PT atomizers in it even though they sell specific ones with shorter chimneys for the Evod. The Evod has turned out to be ultra-reliable while still delivering a great toke! You may want to consider trying one depending on what flavor juices you run. I personally have used Cinnamin Roll and Orange Cream in it even though those are supposed to be 2 bad flavors for "plastic" tanks.

I have not seen the aero base and therefore can't really give you a straight answer other than to say I'd just keep my tanks topped up and periodically just let them drain down anyways, depending on the cost of the base, an Evod might be what the doctor ordered, just be careful about over tightening, they have some nasty tricks if you super-crank them on.

 

[Arch]

Ah, I see. Hell, now I'm having a massive problem where I can't unscrew the base from my battery. It's really, really on there. I always tighten it a lot because I was told it prevents leaking, but man it's on there...

 

[Arch]

Ah, I see. Hell, now I'm having a massive problem where I can't unscrew the base from my battery. It's really, really on there. I always tighten it a lot because I was told it prevents leaking, but man it's on there...

Yeah, I've tried my hardest to get it off and it's not coming off. What the hell?

 

[Larry777]

For all the protank style atomizers there's a small metal pin that runs through a "rubber" insulator on the bottom. What this means is when you tighten them "excessively" you actually smush that bottom pin "in" (upwards") and can risk either messing it up or giving yourself a nice burnt aftertaste if the insulator gets near hot coil.

For removal, I'd suggest 2 pairs of pliers, channel locks, etc. Grab them fairly tight so they don't slip in the tools and scuff the surface.
Hot water on the outer component can help expand it off a bit too, but I 've never had much luck with that method. A couple pieces of rubber can also give you a really good grip, rubber gloves or bottle openers work well.

 

[Arch]

For all the protank style atomizers there's a small metal pin that runs through a "rubber" insulator on the bottom. What this means is when you tighten them "excessively" you actually smush that bottom pin "in" (upwards") and can risk either messing it up or giving yourself a nice burnt aftertaste if the insulator gets near hot coil.

For removal, I'd suggest 2 pairs of pliers, channel locks, etc. Grab them fairly tight so they don't slip in the tools and scuff the surface.
Hot water on the outer component can help expand it off a bit too, but I 've never had much luck with that method. A couple pieces of rubber can also give you a really good grip, rubber gloves or bottle openers work well.

It's not wanting to come off and I don't want to run water or anything on it because the battery tip is right in the hole and I don't know how safe that is. I genuinely think I have to buy a new mod/protank base at this point because it's on THAT tight and I don't own any pliers...Jesus christ man.

 

[Larry777]

Alright, 2 crazy possibilities, both require leaving the house.
1- go to any garage or service station and offer the "attendant" $5 to use his/her pliers for 30 seconds
2- go to any Autozone car parts store, tell them you want to "rent" 2 pairs of pliers, the one by me sells you the tool you want to "rent" then returns it for full price a few minutes later. As I understand it, this is in fact their policy and is not "cheating"

Option 3- Find someone really big and use the old "I know you're not strong enough to get this off..." routine

As for water on the battery, actually not usually an issue unless you go bonkers but it is not my preferred method anyway as it usually takes forever and doesn't work.

 

[Arch]

Alright, 2 crazy possibilities, both require leaving the house.
1- go to any garage or service station and offer the "attendant" $5 to use his/her pliers for 30 seconds
2- go to any Autozone car parts store, tell them you want to "rent" 2 pairs of pliers, the one by me sells you the tool you want to "rent" then returns it for full price a few minutes later. As I understand it, this is in fact their policy and is not "cheating"

Option 3- Find someone really big and use the old "I know you're not strong enough to get this off..." routine

As for water on the battery, actually not usually an issue unless you go bonkers but it is not my preferred method anyway as it usually takes forever and doesn't work.

My fear with plyers is messing up the base or something by scratching it or the mod itself if it slips. I mean, the mod I have is $20 and a new base is like $5 so it's not a big deal I guess. I also wanted to buy a Vamo V5 soon anyway once I got the balls to go for a removable battery mod. Sort of scared of the explosive batteries you hear about as a noob...Either way, I can get my hands on plyers for sure so I'll give that a shot if all else fails.

I'll have to go find a muscle head!

 

[JBR3AK]

What device is it on? I usually hold the devic in one hande, and with needle nose pliars in the other I grip the gnurled base of the PT2 and turn it. As for remedying the gurgling/airflow, I've used the base of an EVOD and a 510/ego threaded adapter. I didn't feel like buying an adjustable airflow ring for it. Lol
(Tip: If you're worried about scratching the base or device at all, I'd place a wash cloth or equivalent over the surface area you plan to grip onto with pliars.) My solution with the 510/Ego adapter and EVOD base solved my tight draw solution in my provari.. Explains why I couldn't afford the Air control ring instead.. X)


Sent from my Provari v2.5 using Tapatalk

 

[Larry777]

Simple enough, sorry my magic wand tricks didn't help
Fear not the "battery exploding" thing too much...it's mostly myth and legend.
Here's the straight scoop in a nutshell.

Using an IMR style battery (it refers to the type of chemistry inside) you almost CAN'T blow up
Using a variable voltage or wattage device will protect itself from almost any high heat creating situation (IE they can't blow themselves up)
The people who did blow up were STACKING batteries and ran SIGNIFICANTLY higher outputs because of it. A single battery with even the worst chemistry will almost certainly just vent out some nasty gases and get real hot, which if you have ANY sort of venting on your battery container will make it a moot point unless you manage to clog all the holes and continue to hold the firing button in spite of what may become searing heat.

So in short, get a nice VV/VW with an IMR style battery and go for it, you won't regret it imho.

Good luck

 

[Arch]

Simple enough, sorry my magic wand tricks didn't help
Fear not the "battery exploding" thing too much...it's mostly myth and legend.
Here's the straight scoop in a nutshell.

Using an IMR style battery (it refers to the type of chemistry inside) you almost CAN'T blow up
Using a variable voltage or wattage device will protect itself from almost any high heat creating situation (IE they can't blow themselves up)
The people who did blow up were STACKING batteries and ran SIGNIFICANTLY higher outputs because of it. A single battery with even the worst chemistry will almost certainly just vent out some nasty gases and get real hot, which if you have ANY sort of venting on your battery container will make it a moot point unless you manage to clog all the holes and continue to hold the firing button in spite of what may become searing heat.

So in short, get a nice VV/VW with an IMR style battery and go for it, you won't regret it imho.

Good luck

Awesome, you pretty much just put the Vamo V5 in the shopping cart for me. Do you recommend something different? I keep seeing in reviews that you can buy the Vamo V5 for about $30 but in every search I do it comes up as $60-65. Really makes a dent in your wallet given the double amount difference and how much I've already spent.

 

[Larry777]

I picked up a Zmax at a local store on sale for $35.

Key features:
DEMAND Variable wattage not just voltage - this recalculates power settings based on coil resistance so you don't have to change anything when you switch attys to get the same "vape experience". Variable Voltage Will Not Do This Automatically!
battery size-Standard 18650 Highly recommended
standard 510 threading atomizer connection
Good Battery Venting
Wattage range at least 5W-11W nothing "smaller"

If all the above are met, you're in business, I was about to recommend the site I bought it from, but I see their sale is over sorry.
Welcome to Vermillion River Premium E-Juice

Good luck!

 

[evan le'garde]

I can tell you what i do. I take the tip off my protank II, hold some kitchen towel over the opening, then shake out the excess liquid, just give it a dozen shakes. Then i use a q tip to dry out the pipe, slip the tip back on, turn up the volts to about 4.8 and vape until i get a dry hit then turn it back down again. Sometimes the volts can stay up at 4.8 all day.

 

[Arch]

I can tell you what i do. I take the tip off my protank II, hold some kitchen towel over the opening, then shake out the excess liquid, just give it a dozen shakes. Then i use a q tip to dry out the pipe, slip the tip back on, turn up the volts to about 4.8 and vape until i get a dry hit then turn it back down again. Sometimes the volts can stay up at 4.8 all day.

Yeah, I know about that easy fix now which will be nice for the future. Really sucks I can't get this Protank 2 base off my damn mod though. Ugh.

 

[antonioslz]

try to reduce aspiration.
Protank not particularly like.
KF buy one and be happy