Protank 2 sucks

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CallmeB

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Apr 25, 2014
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Katy, Texas, USA
I spent $30 on this damn protank 2 and I fiddle with this damn thing more than my... well I fiddle with it a lot. :D It leaks like crazy. I know it's caused by the wick, but I've tried making the wick larger and then it doesn't leak, but the flavor is crap and it is way too tight a pull. The evod clearomizer tanks are the best I've used. They aren't fancy at all and they don't hold enough juice and they make a mess when filling them ever 15mins, but they work.

This is not a problem with o rings. I don't know why the protank would leak but my evod wouldn't though. Same kanger coils. What is a good solid tank that won't leak and works? I will try anything. I think the Russian 91% looks very like a good candidate. I really would like to move away from these kanger coils. They are just too hard to work with and rebuild. I can do it, but I often get flooding issues or resistance issues with my coils. I would much rather use an rda.

What do you guys think?
 

anumber1

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Jan 14, 2014
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Most of the problems with the pt2 (not the mini) stem from rthe poor airflow the base provides.

I put the aerotank base on all 3 of my pt2's and it made them an acceptable tank.

Solved the airflow issues as well as the constant dry hit to flooding/leaking propensity my pt2's had prior to replacing the bases.

I can vape them from full to dry without a problem now.
 
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Gargoyle

Senior Member
May 19, 2014
170
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Michigan
I have a KayFun clone… It's an EhPro style. It doesn't leak at all..

But I also have 2 pro tank 2's that I have no issue with either. So I am confused as to why your having so many issues. Maybe I can help you through these issues..

Are they flooding off a fresh refill? Sometimes it takes a bit to get the vacuum in the chamber right. Especially if you fill them to the brim with fluid. As far as leaking… Normally thats also a fresh fill or almost empty tank issue as well. Once again.. Vacuum isn't being held well. The KayFun operates under the same principles.. So if it's super full it will also flood. Won't leak.. But it'll flood.
 

Gargoyle

Senior Member
May 19, 2014
170
88
Michigan
Most of the problems with the pt2 (not the mini) stem from rthe poor airflow the base provides.

I put the areotank base on all 3 of my pt2's and it made them an acceptable tank.

Solved the airflow issues as well as the constant dry hit to flooding/leaking propensity my pt2's had prior to replacing the bases.

I second this as well.. The adjustable airflow bottoms do make a difference.
 

herb

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Mar 21, 2014
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Northern NJ native , Coastal NC now.
Thirty bucks for a Pro Tank II ? Wow , 101 vape has them for $8.99 but anyway i think your problem may be that all the sections of it are looser than they should be , happened to me .

When i really tightened all the sections together with the proper o rings that come with it , it has never leaked a single time. When i had a Pro Tank I version that one always leaked but the II has been fantastic .

Since building coils on a 1/16th drill bit and around 5 wraps of 32 gauge ( tightly spaced) i wick with either three strands of 'Peaches and Cream' yarn or regular cotton (making sure it's not overly tight but somewhat snug) the vape has been very very good with excellent flavor and no leaks even when refilling.
 

CallmeB

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Apr 25, 2014
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Katy, Texas, USA
Yeah I drilled out the air holes on the protank 2. It draws much better now. I know now everyone is going to say that is the problem, and it might be, but I'm just sick of it. I am so tired of constantly having my hands being oily from e juice and having to use my shirt to sop up the juice on my battery. The only way to get it to vape is to take the kanger assembly out of the tank and blow it out. After that it vapes fine for a while but eventually the coil fills with juice and begins leaking. I think I'm going to order the

I just ordered a Fogger V4. Should be here by Wednesday. Give you an update on that when I get it. I'll keep tinkering with this damn Protank, but honestly I think these kanger coils are duds. Making it possible for liquid to leak through is a design flaw imo. It might be that I just don't understand it enough yet.

On another note. 32 gauge 5 wraps? What ohm are you getting at that? Are you testing the resistance? I'm sure you are. I think I might go to 30 gauge. I like more wraps than 4 or 5 but I don't like how hot and slow the 28 gauge is. It's probably not an issue in an rda though. I worry about the kanger coils assembly pin washer thingy melting.
 

edyle

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Oct 23, 2013
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Port-of-Spain, Trinidad & Tobago
I spent $30 on this damn protank 2 and I fiddle with this damn thing more than my... well I fiddle with it a lot. :D It leaks like crazy. I know it's caused by the wick, but I've tried making the wick larger and then it doesn't leak, but the flavor is crap and it is way too tight a pull. The evod clearomizer tanks are the best I've used. They aren't fancy at all and they don't hold enough juice and they make a mess when filling them ever 15mins, but they work.

This is not a problem with o rings. I don't know why the protank would leak but my evod wouldn't though. Same kanger coils. What is a good solid tank that won't leak and works? I will try anything. I think the Russian 91% looks very like a good candidate. I really would like to move away from these kanger coils. They are just too hard to work with and rebuild. I can do it, but I often get flooding issues or resistance issues with my coils. I would much rather use an rda.

What do you guys think?


1:
Your evod uses eGo thread.
Your protank2 uses the common 510 thread which most tanks nowadays have.
The 510 thread is really designed for cigalike sized cartridges.

I use protanks:
302467d1391538435-hello-everyone-img_20140204_141115.jpg

If you look at the bottom of my tank you may notice that I do not have the protank base on it.
Instead I use bases from miniprotanks.
To make up for size difference I add an extra silicone cap on the atomizer:
322234d1396504872-best-evod-set-up-today-img_20140403_headwithextracap.jpg


The evod bases wont work on them because the evod base goes further up and theres no room left for the coil.

If you look at the 510 thread connection at the bottom of the protank and look at the airholes on the sides you might understand why it is way too tight a pull. It seems a miracle if you get any air at all.

2:
One of the most dramatic improvements I got from the coil heads came from rewicking with cotton. Takes some practice to figure out how much wick to use, but its a big improvement; silica is a more compressed material and eventaullly leaks badly; cotton tends to expand and it wicks better; it leaks eventually also, but easy to rewick.

protank_tutorial_9_grande.jpg
 

BigCatDaddy

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Sep 29, 2013
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Near Austin, Texas
Aerotank base fits the Protank 2 and solves the draw problem and possibly some of the other issues you are having.
I use a buttload of PT II's and you hit the nail on the head!! $5 for the base and problems solved. The coils are a snap to rebuild and well worth it vape-wise and money-wise too!!
 

herb

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Mar 21, 2014
4,850
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Northern NJ native , Coastal NC now.
Yeah I drilled out the air holes on the protank 2. It draws much better now. I know now everyone is going to say that is the problem, and it might be, but I'm just sick of it. I am so tired of constantly having my hands being oily from e juice and having to use my shirt to sop up the juice on my battery. The only way to get it to vape is to take the kanger assembly out of the tank and blow it out. After that it vapes fine for a while but eventually the coil fills with juice and begins leaking. I think I'm going to order the

I just ordered a Fogger V4. Should be here by Wednesday. Give you an update on that when I get it. I'll keep tinkering with this damn Protank, but honestly I think these kanger coils are duds. Making it possible for liquid to leak through is a design flaw imo. It might be that I just don't understand it enough yet.

On another note. 32 gauge 5 wraps? What ohm are you getting at that? Are you testing the resistance? I'm sure you are. I think I might go to 30 gauge. I like more wraps than 4 or 5 but I don't like how hot and slow the 28 gauge is. It's probably not an issue in an rda though. I worry about the kanger coils assembly pin washer thingy melting.


Always in the 2.0-2.4 range and it vapes great , 28 gauge ? No no , too thick , much easier with 30 or 32 for the Pro Tank builds. I always have slight overhang with the wicks as well (meaning they slightly protrude out the open sides) with no flavor wick.
 

Gargoyle

Senior Member
May 19, 2014
170
88
Michigan
Always in the 2.0-2.4 range and it vapes great , 28 gauge ? No no , too thick , much easier with 30 or 32 for the Pro Tank builds. I always have slight overhang with the wicks as well (meaning they slightly protrude out the open sides) with no flavor wick.

Ive been rebuilding with 28 gauge and my resistances are way low.. Thanks for this post!! I'll have to grab some 32 to use in the pro tanks to help my resistances. I just grabbed a roll of 28 cause in my Kayfun it works stellar!!
 

mistike

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May 31, 2014
645
2,301
Los Angeles, CA, USA
I have a PT3 and it was gurgling like crazy, leaking juice in my mouth and all over the battery connector. I solved most of this by turning the silicon cup around (cup facing up on the coil head instead of facing down). An airflow control base solved the rest of the problem. Now I can use it again.
 
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