Protank 3 Coils - So many questions

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nhenson22

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Aug 12, 2014
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Devon
I have been vaping full time for nearly 2 weeks now. My setup is a Vision Spinner 1300 battery with a Protank 3 Mini tank.
My wife is using the same setup and we have been switching 3 tanks between the two of us.

I am very impressed with the Protank 3 Mini, it provides a vape that I didn't think was possible compared to some of the trial puffs I had had on friend's ecigs.
The last few days things have been getting worse though. Sometimes I am experiencing a strange kind of sharp and moist hit that catches the throat, with another tank and coil, I feel that more effort is required to pull a draw. I understand that maintenance is required and have been rinsing the tank and coils thoroughly every 2 or so fills. It just seems a little early for the coils to be going? (I do not vape during the day apart from at weekends and tend to go through 1ml on weekdays and 3ml at weekends).

I pulled the chimney and out of two of the coils last night, and found one was considerably blacker than the other. Is there a right way to clean these properly and extend their life, I have read some people saying dry burning is good, but others saying it is a terrible idea. Can anyone point me in the direction of a decent guide to clean and extend the life of the coils?

My next questions comes on replacement coils. I understand the rules of Ohm's law and the relationship between Voltage, Resistance and Power, but what are the other factors affected by the resistance of the coils.

The coils that came with the tanks are all 1.5 Ohm, I generally used these at around 3.6-3.8 V
The replacement heads I bought are 2.0 Ohm, I have tried one of these and just feel I don't get as good a hit, it takes more effort, even with the voltage at 4.2+.

What are the reasons for this, do higher Ohm coils produce less vapour? Will they drain battery faster? etc. etc.

If anyone happens to have written a complete idiots guide to cleaning and choosing the right Protank coil then that would be just dandy!

:)
 

David1975

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Apr 30, 2014
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Hello. I would not dry burn the coil. The reason being that rubber gasket at the bottom of the coil with the pin in it. Dry burning produces a lot of heat as there's no liquid. This excess heat will scorch that gasket and leave a lasting bad taste or melt it completely. I don't know if your interested in rebuilding them, but that's what I do... I'll leave that talk for when your ready.
The coil Ohm's works backwards from how you're thinking, the lower the number the hotter the vape. So a 1.5 will be warmer and produce more vaper than a 1.8 and this will produce more than a 2.0 and so on at a set voltage.
Most smokers I have helped switch prefer a PT coil in the 1.5-1.8 range with a fixed voltage battery. On a vv/vw, they and I like it around 9watts.
 

roxynoodle

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Jun 19, 2014
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Every night I rinse the coils under hot water, blot them dry and toss them into some isopropyl alcohol. In the morning I rinse them again and leave them to dry for the next night. So I rotate between 2 coils per tank.

You might like putting an aerotank base on your pt3 to be able to adjust your airflow.

Smaller resistance equals warmer vape.
 

DetraMental

Vaping Master
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Mar 31, 2013
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Whatever you decide do not throw out your used coils. Put them in a discarded pill bottle or ziploc bag for a later day when you may decide to try your hand at rebuilding. You may think now that this will not happen but it may. It took me a year to try it but I did try it and am happy I did. I haven't bought replacement heads in 3 months. I love that I can build them at the ohms I prefer.
 

nhenson22

Full Member
Aug 12, 2014
15
0
Devon
Hello. I would not dry burn the coil. The reason being that rubber gasket at the bottom of the coil with the pin in it. Dry burning produces a lot of heat as there's no liquid. This excess heat will scorch that gasket and leave a lasting bad taste or melt it completely. I don't know if your interested in rebuilding them, but that's what I do... I'll leave that talk for when your ready.
The coil Ohm's works backwards from how you're thinking, the lower the number the hotter the vape. So a 1.5 will be warmer and produce more vaper than a 1.8 and this will produce more than a 2.0 and so on at a set voltage.
Most smokers I have helped switch prefer a PT coil in the 1.5-1.8 range with a fixed voltage battery. On a vv/vw, they and I like it around 9watts.

Thanks David. Would dry burning be effective when you have the rubber gasket removed? I did try this and noticed that the coil started losing its black burnt colour as I did it, have not tested that coil yet though so no idea if it was effective.

I probably will decide to build my own eventually but as you said, probably a conversation for down the road!
I have ordered myself some 1.8 coils, think this may be a good in between from the 1.5 and 2.0s
 

nhenson22

Full Member
Aug 12, 2014
15
0
Devon
Every night I rinse the coils under hot water, blot them dry and toss them into some isopropyl alcohol. In the morning I rinse them again and leave them to dry for the next night. So I rotate between 2 coils per tank.

You might like putting an aerotank base on your pt3 to be able to adjust your airflow.

Smaller resistance equals warmer vape.

Cheers for the advice, I don't have any alcohol I can use at the moment, but tried soaking in a cup of hot water for a while, rinsing and replacing the water a few times when it cooled.
How do you know when the coil is cleaned effectively? Can you tell if it is dead by looking at it? As mentioned, one in particular was very black./brown and crusty, is this just a build up which you should be able to get off, or does this mean that it is actually burnt out?
 

nhenson22

Full Member
Aug 12, 2014
15
0
Devon
Whatever you decide do not throw out your used coils. Put them in a discarded pill bottle or ziploc bag for a later day when you may decide to try your hand at rebuilding. You may think now that this will not happen but it may. It took me a year to try it but I did try it and am happy I did. I haven't bought replacement heads in 3 months. I love that I can build them at the ohms I prefer.

Thanks, that's good advice. Will most likely try my hand at it eventually. I take it there are plenty of guides floating about on how to do this and where to buy the materials for coil and wick?
 

shatteredsoul76

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  • Jul 23, 2014
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    Portland, TN, USA
    I'm new to vapin as well but the kanger coils are really easy to build and have a better vape to me, I'm also using cell cotton rayon as a wick. There are plenty of tutorials and vids on YouTube to keep you pointed in the right direction.
    You don't want to fire a kanger coil without the rubber isolator removed as it helps keep the leads on the coil from shorting out.
     

    imsoenthused

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    May 19, 2011
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    Thanks David. Would dry burning be effective when you have the rubber gasket removed? I did try this and noticed that the coil started losing its black burnt colour as I did it, have not tested that coil yet though so no idea if it was effective.

    I probably will decide to build my own eventually but as you said, probably a conversation for down the road!
    I have ordered myself some 1.8 coils, think this may be a good in between from the 1.5 and 2.0s
    He's talking about the isolator in the bottom of the head, not the gasket that seals between the head and the chimney. Basically, it can be burned through when dry burning. If you melt it a little everything you vape with that head will taste like burnt plastic. If it melts through the head will short out and stop working.
     

    PapaSloth

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    Aug 16, 2014
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    Portland, OR, USA
    I'm new to vapin as well but the kanger coils are really easy to build and have a better vape to me, I'm also using cell cotton rayon as a wick. There are plenty of tutorials and vids on YouTube to keep you pointed in the right direction.
    You don't want to fire a kanger coil without the rubber isolator removed as it helps keep the leads on the coil from shorting out.
    This is true for the old single-coil heads, but not as true for the new dual-coil heads. Those are much harder to rebuild because the latest versions have a collar tube that fits over the tube where the coils sit, and that collar only has four small holes in it. So, there's no way to thread the wick through the coil when they coil has been properly placed. Unfortunately, the Protank 3 uses the dual-coils, so it's harder to rebuild.
     
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