Protank/ProVari - OK or not?

[Train2]

I'm working up my wish-list, pre-purchase, and would like to plan for all contingencies...
I've seen some people describe problems using ProTanks on a ProVari, and want to better understand if it will be a problem for ME.
I understand many folks will recommend cartotanks or other approaches, thanks, but no - I want to make my ProTanks work.


We're talking stock, Kanger, ProTank1's and ProTank2's.

Will a Protank push the pin way down?
Will a Protank not be "flush" with the top?
Will a Protank have airflow cut off if screwed on flush?

And if "yes" to any of the above -
Will a Tatroe base fix the reported troubles?
Will some adapter fix the reported troubles?
Do I need an Airflow Thingy to fix the reported troubles?

 

[Susan W.]

I use the Protanks all the time, no issues. I didn't like the Protank 1, it was too airy a draw for me. The Protank 2 is less airy.
I have never had an issue with the pin, except when I didn't have the head screwed in all the way. The Protanks sit flush with the base and has grooves cut out in the bottom so there is still enough airflow, at least for me. I believe the clones don't have the grooves in them, hence the lack of airflow and having to unscrew it a bit to get some airflow.

I'm not using any kind of ring, base or adapter.

 

[AngiBe]

I have a ProTank2 and it fits perfect, flush and works great. My problem is, I don't care for bcc tanks. I prefer warmer vapes. Mine is not a clone so not sure how the clones work.

 

[Kuma79]

No problems at all with the Protank 2, never tried a PT1.

 

[pufZeppelin]

did ya look at one of these pages
(you prob did, but it's all I got)

- https://www.google.com/search?q=Pro...ABA&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAQ&biw=1600&bih=730#imgdii=_



...have you thought about one of those cartotanks

 

[EvilZoe]

I started having issues with Protanks about the same time as my vaper's tongue situation. I think I might have changed my method of vaping during that time and the two incidents might be related.

That said, I still don't get satisfactory use from my Protanks with stock coils.

 

[The Ocelot]

I use the original Protank 1s. The draw is airy, but I have a trick to restrict the airflow. I find the flavors muted, but I vape unflavored in it, so it's not an issue. There is a little bit of space and I don't like the look of it being more narrow than a Loki ring, so I use a Bling Ring to hide it.

 

[Train2]

I did indeed google, and MOST images show a ProTank happily sitting on a ProVari, but then I see this, below, and it goes into the mix:

It SOUNDS like MOST people have no trouble...

did ya look at one of these pages
(you prob did, but it's all I got)

- https://www.google.com/search?q=Pro...ABA&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAQ&biw=1600&bih=730#imgdii=_



...have you thought about one of those cartotanks

 

[Train2]

Just to clarify - I am quite familiar with the TYPICAL "airiness" of a ProTank - and that'll be fine. It's whether the ProVari would "choke off" all the airflow, or if the ProTank will sit unsupported by the top of the mod, "hanging by it's threads" - those are the two issues that concern me.
See that pic in my last post above? I won't be OK with that. That's how a PTank sits on my VAMO2 - so I don't use ProTanks on the VAMO. I'd LIKE to be able to use them on a ProVari - even if I DO have to buy some kind of ring perhaps for support... I just want to get that up front. Does that makes sense?

 

[Train2]

Dang - now it's like 50/50, regarding "flush/notflush"!

 

[The Ocelot]

Just to clarify - I am quite familiar with the TYPICAL "airiness" of a ProTank - and that'll be fine. It's whether the ProVari would "choke off" all the airflow, or if the ProTank will sit unsupported by the top of the mod, "hanging by it's threads" - those are the two issues that concern me.
See that pic in my last post above? I won't be OK with that. That's how a PTank sits on my VAMO2 - so I don't use ProTanks on the VAMO. I'd LIKE to be able to use them on a ProVari - even if I DO have to buy some kind of ring perhaps for support... I just want to get that up front. Does that makes sense?

There have been posts recently by members saying the airflow is too tight with a Protank on the ProVari. I have a feeling that they have PT2s or a newer version of the PT1 (or a generic). I have seen replacement bases for Protanks that make a distinction between the older and newer PT1 bases.

http://www.sweet-vapes.com/shop?pag...color_plus.tpl&product_id=2032&category_id=80

My Protanks sit firmly on the ProVari, no dangling or need for support; however, there is a space.

Just so you know, if you use a 19mm carto tank the space will also be visible. It doesn't bother me, since I like using my charms, for for a flush look you need to get a 22mm and use a Loki-type ring.

 

[darkgear]

I don't have any issues with the PT2. I can screw it all the way down and it doesn't seem to restrict airflow. It sits pretty darn flush.

I guess if someone really had airflow problems you could try a Hippo. It doesn't look terrible ...

 

[EvilZoe]

There have been posts recently by members saying the airflow is too tight with a Protank on the ProVari. I have a feeling that they have PT2s or a newer version of the PT1 (or a generic). I have seen replacement bases for Protanks that make a distinction between the older and newer PT1 bases.

http://www.sweet-vapes.com/shop?pag...color_plus.tpl&product_id=2032&category_id=80

My Protanks sit firmly on the ProVari, no dangling or need for support; however, there is a space.

Just so you know, if you use a 19mm carto tank the space will also be visible. It doesn't bother me, since I like using my charms, for for a flush look you need to get a 22mm and use a Loki-type ring.

PT2s have slots in the base to let air in and the Provari doesn't block them. If anything, the draw from the Protank is TOO airy.

Using a Loki beauty ring can somewhat cover part of the holes but not enough to stop the airflow.

I really don't know what those other people are talking about when they can't get a draw through a PT2.

 

[TFL!]

I have protanks 1, 1.5 and 2 on a provari. When the tanks are mounted I can slide a sheet of 20lb bond paper between tank and top cap but cannot slide the card that comes with the protank in there. Draw is fine them.


Just my 2 cents worth

 

[Mowgli]

Just to clarify - I am quite familiar with the TYPICAL "airiness" of a ProTank - and that'll be fine. It's whether the ProVari would "choke off" all the airflow, or if the ProTank will sit unsupported by the top of the mod, "hanging by it's threads" - those are the two issues that concern me.
See that pic in my last post above? I won't be OK with that. That's how a PTank sits on my VAMO2 - so I don't use ProTanks on the VAMO. I'd LIKE to be able to use them on a ProVari - even if I DO have to buy some kind of ring perhaps for support... I just want to get that up front. Does that makes sense?

Here's the $2 fix for your Vamo 2 - eGo Chrome Cone for for Train2's Vamo

My Protanks sit higher than flush on my Provari. I don't crank them down all the way.
I pushed the pin down into a VV Ego Mega V2 and I've been cautious ever since.
I crank my evods onto my Vamo enough to make good contact and my Protanks the same on both.

PT 1 or 2 sit on mine about the same as the picture you posted. I don't consider it an issue.

The PT1s sit in my gear box ever since I got a couple of PT2s BTW.

PT2s using PT heads have a better draw than a PT1 with real Evod heads.
I tried the real Evod heads in the PT2 and they were too tight a draw.
They fixed the draw issue when they released the PT2

I keep my vintage (lol) Evod heads for my Evods.

 

[Spydro]

I have 2 PT's and 1 PT-II w/removeable DT and the tighter draw base, plus I bought an extra PT-II base to use on one of my PT's (they are too airy to me). Fooled around with both PT and EVOD coils in them and finally started making my own coils. I do use the PT's on my clones, but I really don't like them that much. But then what do I know, I don't really like my 3 EVODS all that well either (or the 5 Mini T3's I also bought when it was suggested to buy Kanger gear for my first mechanical mods).

I just tried all three of the PT's on one of my ProVari's... because of this thread (I won't use them on the ProVari's, just personal preference). All three I had to carefully screw on and fiddle with to get just snug (with no rocking) and still be just barely above the PV's top cap. The being careful because I didn't know how far they would screw in, both of my ProVari's have black caps, and I didn't want to chance scratching them. FWIW.

 

[errolng]

i have been using the pt2 for the past 30 hours or so i've had the provari.
i cant screw it all the way in or the draw becomes very tight.
so for me, it does not sit flush as i have to loosen it just a little.
however, it is still in tight and will not wiggle around.
just a very very small gap

 

[Train2]

Black caps?
You mean a ring, or the actual top is black? Haven't seen that except for the Vaporforce version...
Was it a special issue or an accessory you can get?

I have 2 PT's and 1 PT-II w/removeable DT and the tighter draw base, plus I bought an extra PT-II base to use on one of my PT's (they are too airy to me). Fooled around with both PT and EVOD coils in them and finally started making my own coils. I do use the PT's on my clones, but I really don't like them that much. But then what do I know, I don't really like my 3 EVODS all that well either (or the 5 Mini T3's I also bought when it was suggested to buy Kanger gear for my first mechanical mods).

I just tried all three of the PT's on one of my ProVari's... because of this thread (I won't use them on the ProVari's, just personal preference). All three I had to carefully screw on and fiddle with to get just snug (with no rocking) and still be just barely above the PV's top cap. The being careful because I didn't know how far they would screw in, both of my ProVari's have black caps, and I didn't want to chance scratching them. FWIW.

 

[Codz]

I use the Protanks all the time, no issues. I didn't like the Protank 1, it was too airy a draw for me. The Protank 2 is less airy.
I have never had an issue with the pin, except when I didn't have the head screwed in all the way. The Protanks sit flush with the base and has grooves cut out in the bottom so there is still enough airflow, at least for me. I believe the clones don't have the grooves in them, hence the lack of airflow and having to unscrew it a bit to get some airflow.

I'm not using any kind of ring, base or adapter.

All of the above for me too. I was never keen on the originals for the same reason but find the protank 2 so much better. A lot of people prefer the hypertank though - uses the same replacement heads but seems to perform better and has twice the capacity. The only little bit of an issue i have with the protank 2 is that it can sometimes gurgle a little bit when it gets near the bottom of the tank, which of course can be remedied by keeping it topped up.

 

[Optimo114]

I know it isn't a pro tank but I use Davides. My local shop carries Davides and not pro tanks so I decided to give them a shot. When I got my Provari, I ordered a PT2 just to see the differences between the two. Davides have no issues at all on the Provari. It sits flush, doesn't lose air, etc. I use my PT2 whenever I need to use my evic or mvp2.

Davide Glassomizer

Here is a link to see what it looks like.