Protank wick trick that could have a chance of working.

[GoodNews!]

Hey guys, there's a new device on the market called the Sophia and one major issue that many users had is getting a dry, burnt taste.

The device is essentially a fancy Protank, the only major difference being that instead of flavor wicks and a rubber seal, that the device works more like an MVP atomizer tank where you screw something up and down to allow more juice to get to the coil.

Anyway, the issue that many have on that particular device, is that if the wicks are even barely sticking out of the "slots" (just like the one's we're familiar with on the Protank heads) that the device I guess "smooshes" the wicks and doesn't allow for great wicking.

Yet everyone and there mother on there says that by trimming the wicks to be exactly in line with the slot, or closest as they can get it, seems to work like magic on the device and pulls juice in tremendously compared to what they were getting, something that seems to up the flavor like crazy.

Makes me wonder if this could work on Protank heads, as at least in the PTII models, the ends of the wicks are smooshed up against the metal base upon assembly. I've tried various flavor wick amounts and nothing has really worked for me.

I don't have any good heads to try this test out on, but if anyone has a head they'd want to try and improve, maybe this would do some good? It seems to have a revolutionary effect on the Sophia. Something about capiliary action or some sort of tosh.

Eager to find out!!!

 

[denali_41]

i've been rebuilding my PTI heads using 2mm ekowool and 32ga kanthal,,and nothing on top f the 2mm eko

i slide the eko over a paperclip before wrapping,,this prevents crushing and choking of the wick

this wick extremely well , my juice is 75% PG

 

[GoodNews!]

I'm gettting some Ecowool tomorrow (along with some vendor bought silica) and trying out all sorts of things, I just know that the stock heads have universally tasted quite wicky no matter what I do. I actually cut some silica from an old CE5 head and used it as a flavor wick, and got slightly better results (closing the airflow all the way seems to help too), but I haven't got anything near a truly vapeable result. At most, it's very, very muted.

And that seems to be running in line with what the Sophia results are, and since the Sophia costs $50, I think people have been very open about the results their getting (and being right to expect more - especially since the Sophia being an RDA, people have been even more critical when it comes to solving issues). So I'm just wondering if this could be a possible technique to really improve the stock Kanger heads. Seems to work for everyone on the Sophia thread, and I'm really hoping it could be a possible solution.

Another solution on that thread though has been things like German made silica, so who knows, maybe it really is just some low quality silica in these heads or something, but I dunno... I've just spent months wishing there was an easy trick to get the Protank to work right, because as it is, the Protank is a quality-built device, the designs of the heads seem scientifically correct, but I just can't figure out why they perform the way they do.

One particular user was having trouble out of the stock silica and coil on the Sophia, and then did the wick trim trick with fantastic results, so I am crossing my fingers that this could somehow work with Kanger heads. I did see a small post months ago where someone claimed that this improved Kanger heads as well (but didn't see any follow up) so maybe there's something to it. Maybe the fuzzy ends of the wick really need to be exposed to the juice for heat to really suck it in. Doesn't make sense to me, but hey, it's vaping, what does.

Do you have to boil Ecowool btw? Poo if you do... Boiling is like, the antichrist, to me. I've found ways to easily do everything in the vaping world, but boiling, ugh... building my own coil is going to be "fun" enough, if I have any more fun doing tedius steps, I'll probably die from the excitement. Not to mention, if I end up having to boil to get a great result from anything, the utter relaxation of virtually running a moonshine barn in order to get a nice vape. If the fun doesn't kill me, the relaxation and mind-numbing ease sure will. It's so boring just taking a cigarette out of a pack and lighting it up. I don't know how in the world I managed to live without chemically synthesizing my own butane and using a butane-fed set of spark rocks to ignite my smokes. But with vaping, I get to dive into all that complexity!

Ya'll know on Dexter's Laboratory, the big lab? Yeah, that was built just to get a working vape. There was one episode where Dexter traveled to the old parts of his lab that were all degraded and broken down over time, but that was his closet full of clearomizers.

 

[JeremyR]

Torching silica red hot for a few, seconds is the key. Till it turns bright white. Gas stove works good too. Besides torching, which is mandatory for a clean vape by the way, What really takes the wick taste away for me is soaking the wick really well before you'll it fire it. Depending on the build I presoak it over night

 

[denali_41]

i have used the german silica before too,,it is by far the best tasting silica out there.

btw,,there are several different types\styles of silica,,the best silica i came across was a 6>1 style think i got it from hoosier vapes

rts has the german silica ,it is wound loosely and frays somewhat easily

 

[beckdg]

video please.

 

[MD_Boater]

I've just spent months wishing there was an easy trick to get the Protank to work right, because as it is, the Protank is a quality-built device, the designs of the heads seem scientifically correct, but I just can't figure out why they perform the way they do.

I honestly do not understand this. I use Mini Pro Tank 2s and they work beautifully. Nice vapor, good taste, and I got 4-7 weeks out of the coils that came with them. I believe that it all boils down to technique. If I fire the PV and wait too long before drawing on it, it will taste burnt. If I start drawing on it and then hit the button, it might taste weak - unless I draw long enough for the coil to heat up. Timing between when you hit the fire button and start drawing, as well as how hard you draw (which controls the juice flow rate) determines the type of vape that you get.

I am absolutley baffled and amazed that you are having so many problems. This really isn't rocket science.

 

[beckdg]

Rocket surgery perhaps?