Question about Batteries
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Wow, this is a ton of info and way more response than I had initially expected. I have to admit though, I thought I wasn't going to get any replies since I'm used to other forums that are full of people who laugh at noobs (mainly online gaming forums), but the response I got on this forum was truly mindblowing, to say the least. I'm really glad I heard about this forum and am even happier that I joined it. I deeply thank everyone here for replying with such detailed answers. I haven't learned everything about batteries, but at least now I know:
1. To pick a battery that'll have enough amps in order to support the wattage I vape at (usually 50-70 so I'll probably end up getting a 20A battery with a 3000mAh since I use my mod alot end tend to use up its battery in a short amount of time)
2. Not to go any higher than the recommended wattage for the amps the battery has to offer. I wouldn't want it to go kaboom
although I hear that the predator has safety measures in place, I still wouldn't want to take that risk.
I still don't quite understand the role that voltages play in this picture but at least I understand what ampage and mAh mean now. I'll do my best to understand all of the safety measures regarding batteries even further. I'm 2 days free from real cigs and already I'm loving vaping and the community itself! Finally, a forum that I like going to! (take that us.battle.net!)
By the way though, I'd like to know what the Temperature Control function on my predator does. I was fiddling around with its settings just now and noticed that I could adjust the temperature and had some pre-heat function things on it too. I'm not really sure what any of this does so I decided not to touch it as I didn't want to screw anything up since I was already enjoying my vape.
1. To pick a battery that'll have enough amps in order to support the wattage I vape at (usually 50-70 so I'll probably end up getting a 20A battery with a 3000mAh since I use my mod alot end tend to use up its battery in a short amount of time)
2. Not to go any higher than the recommended wattage for the amps the battery has to offer. I wouldn't want it to go kaboom
although I hear that the predator has safety measures in place, I still wouldn't want to take that risk.I still don't quite understand the role that voltages play in this picture but at least I understand what ampage and mAh mean now. I'll do my best to understand all of the safety measures regarding batteries even further. I'm 2 days free from real cigs and already I'm loving vaping and the community itself! Finally, a forum that I like going to! (take that us.battle.net!)
By the way though, I'd like to know what the Temperature Control function on my predator does. I was fiddling around with its settings just now and noticed that I could adjust the temperature and had some pre-heat function things on it too. I'm not really sure what any of this does so I decided not to touch it as I didn't want to screw anything up since I was already enjoying my vape.
That's the way the ECF is. We all want all of us to succeed.
I'll vape to that, friend!
Not screwing with things you don't understand is usually good adviceWow, this is a ton of info and way more response than I had initially expected. I have to admit though, I thought I wasn't going to get any replies since I'm used to other forums that are full of people who laugh at noobs (mainly online gaming forums), but the response I got on this forum was truly mindblowing, to say the least. I'm really glad I heard about this forum and am even happier that I joined it. I deeply thank everyone here for replying with such detailed answers. I haven't learned everything about batteries, but at least now I know:
1. To pick a battery that'll have enough amps in order to support the wattage I vape at (usually 50-70 so I'll probably end up getting a 20A battery with a 3000mAh since I use my mod alot end tend to use up its battery in a short amount of time)
2. Not to go any higher than the recommended wattage for the amps the battery has to offer. I wouldn't want it to go kaboom
I still don't quite understand the role that voltages play in this picture but at least I understand what ampage and mAh mean now. I'll do my best to understand all of the safety measures regarding batteries even further. I'm 2 days free from real cigs and already I'm loving vaping and the community itself! Finally, a forum that I like going to! (take that us.battle.net!)
By the way though, I'd like to know what the Temperature Control function on my predator does. I was fiddling around with its settings just now and noticed that I could adjust the temperature and had some pre-heat function things on it too. I'm not really sure what any of this does so I decided not to touch it as I didn't want to screw anything up since I was already enjoying my vape.
Volts, Amps and Ohms are the three variables in Ohm's Law. They are interrelated. That is, in any circuit, if you change any one of the values for V, A or R (R=resistance=Ohms), one or both of the others must move to keep the equation in balance. The formal statement of Ohm's Law is it takes one Volt of potential to shove one Amp of electricity across one Ohm of resistance. One analogy I have had some luck with is consider a pump pushing a fluid through a pipe. The pressure in the fluid the pump develops is Volts. The flow volume past any point in the system is Amps. And the resistance to flow-- boundary layer turbulence, tube friction, tight bends, whatever-- is Ohms. Watts is a measure of power and is often displayed as one quadrant on an Ohm's Law Wheel, thus:
However, the technical purists among us will tell you the relationship of Watts to V, A and R is Watt's Law, not Ohm's Law. While technically correct, this is the sort of quibble grammarians have over a dangling participle. True, and interesting to those deeply involved, but not of any real import
Bottom line: V, A and R are the parameters used to describe an electrical circuit of any type, while watts are a unit of measure describing power used (745.7 watts = 1 horsepower), regardless whether this power is electrical or mechanical or hydraulic or generated in any other form. Clear as mud, right? Don't worry about it The answer to your question above is simple: If the resistance (ohms) in your coil stays the same (and it does barring some conductivity change in the wire due to heating), then changing the set watts on your machine requires both volts and amps to move to keep the the Ghost of Georg Ohm from spinning in his grave, or something like that. Look at the wheel in the upper right: V = P / I. Obviously, if you change the watts on your machine (P) by pushing the buttons and watching the numbers move, then either V or I must change, or both of them. The key point is, for any possible combination of set watts and coil resistance on your mod, all 12 of those equations must be true at all times. This is because they all say the same thing, in different ways. There's only one rule, merely different ways of looking at it. All of that bumf is simply an algebraic transformation allowing you to solve for any unknown variable, if you know any two of the others.
Now, the real beauty part is, you don't have to actually understand any of this using a regulated mod like you have (mechanical mods, which you don't have, are different). All you need to know is watts, a measure of power. Power is the difference between an inline 4 cylinder in a Hyundai and the ground-shaking V8 in a Corvette. One makes a lot more power than the other, and that's exactly what you're doing by changing the watts on your machine. Think of it as moving the slider from Hyundai to Corvette, or the reverse. You don't need to worry about Vs and As and Is and Rs and Os. You got microchips to handle all that. If any odd Qs or Zs peek up above the ground, the microchips will hunt them down and kill them. No worries. Just find a watts setting that makes a vape you like for the particular juice and tank and coil you have, and all is well.
Temperature control is a horse of a different color. The idea is simple: it's an electronic system designed to heat the coil wire in your mod to a specific temperature-- the one you set in the menu you found looking around-- and hold it there. The mod does this by measuring the temperature of the wire and turning the power on and off (or internally varying the watts) to keep it at the temp you want. (I've already confused you enough for one post, so I won't tell you how it does this. I will, later, if you want, but for right now assume its magic.) A lot of people like this function. Others among us-- me, for example-- not so much. This can have some benefits. Some juices are temperature sensitive: get 'em too hot and they taste bad. It helps keep you from burning out a coil. It stops the machine from working if the wick is dry, and so on. Special wires in the coil-- Ni200, Ti or various grades of Stainless-- are required to make this work. Preheat is another part of this function. They work in different ways, and I don't know how your mod does it, but the idea is to have the wire partially heated to the set temp so you get to your temp setting faster than you would without it.
Hope that helps...
2. Not to go any higher than the recommended wattage for the amps the battery has to offer. I wouldn't want it to go kaboom
Good call, because the safety measures aren't always as effective as some have suggested. They can do some things very well. For example, refusing to fire if there's a short in your coil. Unfortunately, they can't do other things at all - such as working out the safe draw from a battery. Most try to compensate for this by monitoring the internal temperature of the mod and cutting out if it gets too hot, which is an indication that the battery is overheating. The problem is that by the time they cut out, the battery's already damaged so there's no knowing what it will do in the future. Furthermore, the battery may already be at the point where the venting or thermal runaway (thermal runaway is the process that ends in an explosion) process is self-sustaining, so it cuts the power too late to stop it.
Some people think that mods ensure your wattage settings are safe because they've encountered incidents when the mod won't fire at one wattage but will at a lower wattage, and they assume that it's due to the mod's safety features. It isn't. It's due to the battery failing - it simply can't provide the power needed for the higher setting, so its voltage collapses and it fails to provide any power. It's evidence that the battery has been and is being abused, and its failure mode was lucky, because the alternative was something unsafe.
I should put this in perspective. If you've got a good battery in a regulated mod, it probably won't go into thermal runaway. You're more likely to see damaged batteries that don't last as long as they should or possibly venting. But that's just a probably - and I'm not willing to stake my face on a probably.
Temperature control works with certain coil types - usually nickel (Ni 200), Titanium (Ti) and Stainless Steel 316 (SS 316), although you can do it with other metals if you get into the custom settings. I don't think it works at all with kanthal, which is the most common coil type for non-TC coils. When you get to experimenting with it, make sure you have it set to the correct type of coil.
A metal's resistance changes as its temperature changes. In TC, the mod monitors the resistance and uses it to calculate the coil's temperature. You select the watts and the temperature you want. When you fire, the mod uses the full watts you set it at to get it up to the target temperature. Then it cuts the watts to whatever it needs to keep it there. Since you're controlling the temperature rather than just the wattage, the vape stays the same as long as hold down the fire button - it doesn't keep getting hotter. It gives a more consistent vape. I prefer it for that reason, although some people like the changes and prefer just using the power setting.
Pre-heat's another feature. Some big coils have a lot of metal and it takes some time to heat them up enough to be effective. With pre-heat you can give the coil more power at the beginning of the vape so it heats up quickly, and then drop the power (watts) so it doesn't continue heating up so quickly.
Only have a few points to add buy your charger from the listed trusted battery suppliers should get you a good one and for now don't worry about tc once you get the basics figured out then study up on tc and see if its something your interested in. Also l would recommend looking around ECF lot of good people on here and very good info.
Not screwing with things you don't understand is usually good advice
Volts, Amps and Ohms are the three variables in Ohm's Law. They are interrelated. That is, in any circuit, if you change any one of the values for V, A or R (R=resistance=Ohms), one or both of the others must move to keep the equation in balance. The formal statement of Ohm's Law is it takes one Volt of potential to shove one Amp of electricity across one Ohm of resistance. One analogy I have had some luck with is consider a pump pushing a fluid through a pipe. The pressure in the fluid the pump develops is Volts. The flow volume past any point in the system is Amps. And the resistance to flow-- boundary layer turbulence, tube friction, tight bends, whatever-- is Ohms. Watts is a measure of power and is often displayed as one quadrant on an Ohm's Law Wheel, thus:
However, the technical purists among us will tell you the relationship of Watts to V, A and R is Watt's Law, not Ohm's Law. While technically correct, this is the sort of quibble grammarians have over a dangling participle. True, and interesting to those deeply involved, but not of any real import
The answer to your question above is simple: If the resistance (ohms) in your coil stays the same (and it does barring some conductivity change in the wire due to heating), then changing the set watts on your machine requires both volts and amps to move to keep the the Ghost of Georg Ohm from spinning in his grave, or something like that. Look at the wheel in the upper right: V = P / I. Obviously, if you change the watts on your machine (P) by pushing the buttons and watching the numbers move, then either V or I must change, or both of them. The key point is, for any possible combination of set watts and coil resistance on your mod, all 12 of those equations must be true at all times. This is because they all say the same thing, in different ways. There's only one rule, merely different ways of looking at it. All of that bumf is simply an algebraic transformation allowing you to solve for any unknown variable, if you know any two of the others.
Now, the real beauty part is, you don't have to actually understand any of this using a regulated mod like you have (mechanical mods, which you don't have, are different). All you need to know is watts, a measure of power. Power is the difference between an inline 4 cylinder in a Hyundai and the ground-shaking V8 in a Corvette. One makes a lot more power than the other, and that's exactly what you're doing by changing the watts on your machine. Think of it as moving the slider from Hyundai to Corvette, or the reverse. You don't need to worry about Vs and As and Is and Rs and Os. You got microchips to handle all that. If any odd Qs or Zs peek up above the ground, the microchips will hunt them down and kill them. No worries. Just find a watts setting that makes a vape you like for the particular juice and tank and coil you have, and all is well.
Temperature control is a horse of a different color. The idea is simple: it's an electronic system designed to heat the coil wire in your mod to a specific temperature-- the one you set in the menu you found looking around-- and hold it there. The mod does this by measuring the temperature of the wire and turning the power on and off (or internally varying the watts) to keep it at the temp you want. (I've already confused you enough for one post, so I won't tell you how it does this. I will, later, if you want, but for right now assume its magic.) A lot of people like this function. Others among us-- me, for example-- not so much. This can have some benefits. Some juices are temperature sensitive: get 'em too hot and they taste bad. It helps keep you from burning out a coil. It stops the machine from working if the wick is dry, and so on. Special wires in the coil-- Ni200, Ti or various grades of Stainless-- are required to make this work. Preheat is another part of this function. They work in different ways, and I don't know how your mod does it, but the idea is to have the wire partially heated to the set temp so you get to your temp setting faster than you would without it.
Hope that helps...
Not screwing with things you don't understand is usually good advice
Volts, Amps and Ohms are the three variables in Ohm's Law. They are interrelated. That is, in any circuit, if you change any one of the values for V, A or R (R=resistance=Ohms), one or both of the others must move to keep the equation in balance. The formal statement of Ohm's Law is it takes one Volt of potential to shove one Amp of electricity across one Ohm of resistance. One analogy I have had some luck with is consider a pump pushing a fluid through a pipe. The pressure in the fluid the pump develops is Volts. The flow volume past any point in the system is Amps. And the resistance to flow-- boundary layer turbulence, tube friction, tight bends, whatever-- is Ohms. Watts is a measure of power and is often displayed as one quadrant on an Ohm's Law Wheel, thus:
However, the technical purists among us will tell you the relationship of Watts to V, A and R is Watt's Law, not Ohm's Law. While technically correct, this is the sort of quibble grammarians have over a dangling participle. True, and interesting to those deeply involved, but not of any real import
The answer to your question above is simple: If the resistance (ohms) in your coil stays the same (and it does barring some conductivity change in the wire due to heating), then changing the set watts on your machine requires both volts and amps to move to keep the the Ghost of Georg Ohm from spinning in his grave, or something like that. Look at the wheel in the upper right: V = P / I. Obviously, if you change the watts on your machine (P) by pushing the buttons and watching the numbers move, then either V or I must change, or both of them. The key point is, for any possible combination of set watts and coil resistance on your mod, all 12 of those equations must be true at all times. This is because they all say the same thing, in different ways. There's only one rule, merely different ways of looking at it. All of that bumf is simply an algebraic transformation allowing you to solve for any unknown variable, if you know any two of the others.
Now, the real beauty part is, you don't have to actually understand any of this using a regulated mod like you have (mechanical mods, which you don't have, are different). All you need to know is watts, a measure of power. Power is the difference between an inline 4 cylinder in a Hyundai and the ground-shaking V8 in a Corvette. One makes a lot more power than the other, and that's exactly what you're doing by changing the watts on your machine. Think of it as moving the slider from Hyundai to Corvette, or the reverse. You don't need to worry about Vs and As and Is and Rs and Os. You got microchips to handle all that. If any odd Qs or Zs peek up above the ground, the microchips will hunt them down and kill them. No worries. Just find a watts setting that makes a vape you like for the particular juice and tank and coil you have, and all is well.
Temperature control is a horse of a different color. The idea is simple: it's an electronic system designed to heat the coil wire in your mod to a specific temperature-- the one you set in the menu you found looking around-- and hold it there. The mod does this by measuring the temperature of the wire and turning the power on and off (or internally varying the watts) to keep it at the temp you want. (I've already confused you enough for one post, so I won't tell you how it does this. I will, later, if you want, but for right now assume its magic.) A lot of people like this function. Others among us-- me, for example-- not so much. This can have some benefits. Some juices are temperature sensitive: get 'em too hot and they taste bad. It helps keep you from burning out a coil. It stops the machine from working if the wick is dry, and so on. Special wires in the coil-- Ni200, Ti or various grades of Stainless-- are required to make this work. Preheat is another part of this function. They work in different ways, and I don't know how your mod does it, but the idea is to have the wire partially heated to the set temp so you get to your temp setting faster than you would without it.
Hope that helps...
I love the part about the corvette and the hyundai
Although I do get the gist of what you're saying... But since I'm not planning on making any mech mods myself for the time being I'm glad I've got a regulated mod which pretty much does all the work for me. It's great for beginners... And about temperature control, I actually wanted to fidget around with my mod's TC feature. Turns out I couldn't though, since I use the Elabo tank that came with the predator which only uses those attachable Wismec coils... All of the coils for the Elabo tank are made from Kanthal, and I just found out that stainless steel is probably best for TC. So I'm gonna need an RDA if I wanna mess around with TC... But I'll do that some other time. I think I'd rather just chill for now and enjoy the vape since its alot of info to digest.
Believe Armor Plus coils are compatible with Elabo. Check those coils for tc options.I love the part about the corvette and the hyundai
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