Question about Mech mods conductivity

[Cloud boy]

I never really paid attention to conductivity on mech mods other than contact pins. I remember when i first got my SS King mod I'd sometimes get shocked by the tube of the mod while firing but never really paid any attention to it. So my question is that, does the actual tube a part of the "circuit" of the mech mod? Does the body material affect the conductivity?
The reason i ask this is because recently Surefire Vapor came out with silver pins and spring upgrade and when i asked about the spring upgrade they told me it is gold plated and helps with conductivity. And since i have 2 King mods I wanted to know if the spring material actually helps with conductivity. And does this also mean that my brass king would hit harder than my ss king?

Thanks in advance.

 

[emus]

Hot springs, switch design, pin design and dirt are common causes of voltage drop. Body tube voltage drop, brass vs SS, is insignificant.

Good to conduct your own voltage drop tests to determine if mod has electrical current bottle neck.

My brass and stainless Chemesis have same voltage drop at 0.5 ohms.

 

[Cloud boy]

Hot springs, switch design, pin design and dirt are common causes of voltage drop. Body tube voltage drop, brass vs SS, is insignificant.

Good to conduct your own voltage drop tests to determine if mod has electrical current bottle neck.

My brass and stainless Chemesis have same voltage drop at 0.5 ohms.

I have been having some trouble with one of my Kings. When i test for battery V it shows, but while under load, nothing shows up but it still fires. Any idea what caused it? I have tried my other king's bottom cap and i did get a reading so im sure its has something to do with my bottom cap, just not sure what is wrong with it.

 

[dwcraig1]

I find more of a problem at the threads of the tubes, the brass/silver battery/510 connection give me no trouble.
See my post here about it: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...chanical-mod-ggts-clone-135.html#post11470384

 

[EatBacon]

Ok, this is just MY opinion. On most mech mods the entire mod body is part of the negative connection. They are simple "complete" the circuit designs. the neg post makes contact with the button, the button is connected to the body/tube which has the cap/top screwed to it. the atty screws into the top/cap so now the atty's threads in contact with the body which acts as it's neg/ground. Once you fire the device you are completing the circuit and you have let the current of the battery thru the mod. Most mechs are based on a negative momentary switch and the positive connection is constant, however some top button mods have a constant neg and a momentary pos. I don't know if that made sense?

I think the key is have solid points of contact. Most mods and attys have SS bodies so I would not get wrapped about special contacts, so will brass/copper neg post help if the current is just going into the SS body? The entire mod is only as strong as its weakest contact point or conductive material. I have seen mods with dirty end caps/buttons drop more voltage. This is a well debated subject so do a search and some reading. Ok I'll stop now.

 

[Richard75]

I think the key is have solid points of contact. Most mods and attys have SS bodies so I would not get wrapped about special contacts, so will brass/copper neg post help if the current is just going into the SS body? The entire mod is only as strong as its weakest contact point or conductive material. I have seen mods with dirty end caps/buttons drop more voltage. This is a well debated subject so do a search and some reading. Ok I'll stop now.

Think about it this way. The electricity has the entire mod to flow through, whether it's stainless steel or copper. That's a lot of space to move around in. But they're all directed to and from those little pins that touch the battery. So really, you want those pins to be as accepting of that electricity as possible.

While the difference between a stainless mod and a brass mod may be noticeable, the real difference will show with something like stainless pins vs. silver pins.

There are other variables, such as the amount of threads (bridges the electricity has to travel across), but I feel the truly important aspects are the contacts.

 

[dwcraig1]

But if the contacts are dull it's easy to spot but those ss threads kind of get missed as they "look " good.
It's cleaning the threads of the ss tubes that brings my MKB-TS' back to full power.

 

[Cloud boy]

Thanks for all the input, you guys have been very helpful. Does anyone have any input on the spring quality that affects the conductivity?

 

[emus]

...The entire mod is only as strong as its weakest contact point or conductive material...

When tweaking your hot rod, PC or mech mod, attack the bottle neck.

 

[ericbnc]

I picked up a Cen-tech multimeter from Harbor Freight using the coupon from Sunday's flyer to bring the cost down to - wait for it - free.

I measured a 30 amp Sony first - 4.1 volts. I put this battery in my SS Magneto - 4.08 volts. I put it in my brass Origin clone (magnetic switch, copper bottom contact, brass top contact) - 4.09 - 4.1 volts when fired. I tested my brass M16 Sentinel clone (brass contacts) - 4.1 volts.

All of these mods are acceptable registering good efficiency.

 

[emus]

I picked up a Cen-tech multimeter from Harbor Freight using the coupon from Sunday's flyer to bring the cost down to - wait for it - free.

I measured a 30 amp Sony first - 4.1 volts. I put this battery in my SS Magneto - 4.08 volts. I put it in my brass Origin clone (magnetic switch, copper bottom contact, brass top contact) - 4.09 - 4.1 volts when fired. I tested my brass M16 Sentinel clone (brass contacts) - 4.1 volts.

All of these mods are acceptable registering good efficiency.

Need to voltage drop test under coil load to verify mech mod and topper can flow enough electrical current.

 

[ericbnc]

Need to voltage drop test under coil load to verify mech mod and topper can flow enough electrical current.

Thanks for the instructions - I tried it again - the battery is reading 4.08 now:

Brass Origin clone
3.93 - drop of 0.15

Brass M16 Sentinel clone:
3.96 - drop of 0.12

SS Smok Magneto:
3.67 - drop of 0.41

That Magneto isn't very efficient after all...

 

[emus]

Thanks for the instructions - I tried it again - the battery is reading 4.08 now:

Brass Origin clone
3.93 - drop of 0.15

Brass M16 Sentinel clone:
3.96 - drop of 0.12

SS Smok Magneto:
3.67 - drop of 0.41

That Magneto isn't very efficient after all...

Your voltage drop numbers will mean more to others if you also list your coil resistance and batt model number.

Your Magneto may be a friend of my Omega clone. Still vapes good though. Is your Magneto threads nice and clean?

 

[Portertown]

I received my new Poldiac Aname V2 this week from MMV. It has a brass body and the contact pins and the spring are Rhodium over silver plated brass. I put a Kayfun Lite tank on it with a 1.5 ohm coil and installed a charged Sony US18650VTC4 2100mAh battery. All threads were checked to make sure they were clean.
I did a voltage drop test with an inline voltage tester.

4.18 volts without the Kayfun Lite
4.11 volts with the Kayfun Lite
0.07 voltage drop.

These results were with everything perfectly clean and in perfect working condition. It can only go down hill from here.

 

[ericbnc]

Your voltage drop numbers will mean more to others if you also list your coil resistance and batt model number.

Your Magneto may be a friend of my Omega clone. Still vapes good though. Is your Magneto threads nice and clean?

The coil is measuring at 2.2 ohms built on an Octopus dripping RBA and the battery is a Sony 18650 3.7V 1600 mAh 30A purchased less than 2 months ago from VaporDNA.

 

[emus]

The coil is measuring at 2.2 ohms built on an Octopus dripping RBA and the battery is a Sony 18650 3.7V 1600 mAh 30A purchased less than 2 months ago from VaporDNA.

Your Magneto or topper may be ill, because 0.41v is a big drop at 2.2 ohms.

 

[ericbnc]

I did some research and then worked out some bottlenecks. I tightened up the telescoping tube connection and removed the spring sitting under the connection making contact with the bottom of the battery. Same battery - Sony 30 amp at 4.03 volts now reads 3.88 firing a 1.3 ohm coil - the 0.15 volt drop is more than respectable in my opinion.

 

[Cloud boy]

Just got my gold plated spring for my King mod and voltage drop is reduced by about .2

 

[dylanlg2]

so how do you guys test your voltage drop under load with a multimeter? check the battery voltage first ofcourse, then do I put the leads on the pos and neg posts of my dripper and fire it and see what the voltage is while firing?

 

[emus]

so how do you guys test your voltage drop under load with a multimeter? check the battery voltage first ofcourse, then do I put the leads on the pos and neg posts of my dripper and fire it and see what the voltage is while firing?

Yes and take note of coil resistance.
Test w/ a couple toppers because they too are a voltage drop source.
My lowest volt drop topper has a clean copper pin.

Tis easier to buy an inline volt meter that mounts under topper but DMM is good enough.