question on soldering

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cos

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Hi hope i posted this on the right thread and if not my apologies. Just have a fast question as i am very new to modding.
im trying to fix an old box mod as the wire from the bottom of the 510 connection came off. How do you solder the wire to the bottom of the 510 connecter right on the hole? i thought the wire goes into the hole but it doesnt. i have the soldering tool in my right hand the wire in left hand so how and where can i solder it by holding the solder wire? sorry guys gals for this really dumb question but i have to know. Thanks
 

Lightgeoduck

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I usually screw an old atty into the connector and either use vise grip or locking pliers on the atty to hold it in place then solder away... I could be wrong , but I don't see a problem in soldering it into the hole... this way I would think it would make it a sealed 510.... But if you are going to make a bottom feed.. then definitely don't do it in the hole


LGD
 

chuckie

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It's ok to get solder in the whole,the hard part is holding the wire in place while soldering.An alligator clip or a friend is a big help.If u r making a bottom feeder,make sure the feed tube is in place and is the right length before soldering.If the tube gets soldered to the connector it ain't gonna move.
 

cos

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Thanks for quick reply. yeh an extra pair of hands would be great. another question does anyone know of that device they have that has alligater clips on them and its called helping hands. sorry thast the best i could explain it. i guess a hobby shop will have them but maybe i will try Harbor Freights later. that tool could sure come in handy when you are by yourself and need a hand. Thanks again guys
hey light are u stationed in US Army APO address?
 

ED-209

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I have a follow up question regarding this same topic.

I am taking the step forward and going to try the regular AA box mod, no feed system, just a standard one from Madvapes.

I got some questions if anyone can help:

I am getting the sealed 510 connector and where exactly do I solder the positive and negative wire connections and how do you actually solder it to these places? I have reviewed the box mod instructions over and over but it is hard to see where to solder the wire and if it is just on the side or on the inside to the sides, how does it stay?

Of course you can tell I am new to soldering and it seems the only videos I can find show how to solder to a board or how to tin wires and join them together.

The last question(s) I have is how do I solder the wires and resistor to the LED and to the switch\button? I know the button has those prongs with holes in them but do you insert the wire and wrap it around the end, then solder or do you tin the wires first, then insert? Do you actually connect the LED end and wrap it around the resistor end then solder or solder that with the wire all together around the switch?

Sorry for all the noob questions but didn't know who or where to ask these questions.

Thanks everyone,
 

chuckie

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Pos.(red wire) goes to center post of the connector,the Neg.(blk wire) can be soldered anywhere on the outer rim,inside or outside face of the rim.There needs to be space between the 2 soldered points so they don't short out.
As far as led's sorry I don't use them,but the mad vapes diagrams show how.Good luck.
 

cos

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I have a follow up question regarding this same topic.

I am taking the step forward and going to try the regular AA box mod, no feed system, just a standard one from Madvapes.

I got some questions if anyone can help:

I am getting the sealed 510 connector and where exactly do I solder the positive and negative wire connections and how do you actually solder it to these places? I have reviewed the box mod instructions over and over but it is hard to see where to solder the wire and if it is just on the side or on the inside to the sides, how does it stay?

Of course you can tell I am new to soldering and it seems the only videos I can find show how to solder to a board or how to tin wires and join them together.

The last question(s) I have is how do I solder the wires and resistor to the LED and to the switch\button? I know the button has those prongs with holes in them but do you insert the wire and wrap it around the end, then solder or do you tin the wires first, then insert? Do you actually connect the LED end and wrap it around the resistor end then solder or solder that with the wire all together around the switch?

Sorry for all the noob questions but didn't know who or where to ask these questions.

Thanks everyone,

Hey Ed your questions are great man. dont worry about it. i asked and got some help. there are good people here. i normally dont post and just read and try to learn but im going to be starting to build soon maybe so have to learn somewhere.
Good luck to you
Cos
 

ED-209

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Thanks chuckie and cos and I am looking forward to getting into this type of work, I mainly work with programming and system administration work and I am very detail oriented and hoping that I will become a great modder.

I understand what chuckie said but still don't quite understand how the wire can be sodded to a flat end as I haven't seen how this is done, do you just tin the wire, then stick the solder on the wire on that flat spot and add the solder?

The other question still relates to the button\switch. I know it has two prongs with holes in it but do you just stick the wire in and wrap around it then just solder the wire or do you tin the wire first and just solder it to the outside and cut off any excess?

Thanks again for any help anyone can share,
 

AttyPops

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<snip> do you just tin the wire, then stick the solder on the wire on that flat spot and add the solder?

The other question still relates to the button\switch. I know it has two prongs with holes in it but do you just stick the wire in and wrap around it then just solder the wire or do you tin the wire first and just solder it to the outside and cut off any excess?

Thanks again for any help anyone can share,

Soldering 101 - I think there are some vids/tutorials in the stickies... and DEFINITELY many on-line but the quick answer:

You heat the parts, not the solder. The solder flows onto the hot metal when the metal is at or slightly above the melting point of the solder. It's all in the prep/setup. The actual soldering takes literally 5 seconds. The prep, assuming you are a normal human without three hands, can take a bit.

You usually have 3 or 4 things to hold at once:

1) Part A
2) Wire B/Part B
3) Solder
4) Soldering Iron

get a "helping hands", put an alligator clip on parts, get a friend to help hold, twist stuff together, whatever. The little holes on the connectors are great for looping the wire through before you heat the connection. Many people tin the wire 1st, but as long as you heat it and the connector both, you'll be ok. Stranded wire can be twisted on the end 1st, then looped through the hole. Solder with the flat part of the tip...


/
/ iron
/______/

=============
Part
=============

to get as much of the tip contacting the metal parts as possible. Heat BOTH parts together (i.e. at the same time) and touch the solder to the metal (not the iron). When it flows on the connection, remove solder and iron, ur done.

If you fail to heat both parts, you will either end up with still separate parts, or worse, a "hollow" solder joint that can be a PITA to detect and give intermittent failures. So HEAT BOTH.

<snip> do you just tin the wire, then stick the solder on the wire on that flat spot and add the solder?

The center of the atty is a little tricky. Sometimes I put a dab of solder on it 1st, and then melt the wire into the still warm part with the solder on it using the iron. This must be done quickly to avoid over heating, but still hot enough to avoid a hollow joint. The center pin is small and so is the wire, so they heat quickly. Some connectors have a hole in the center pin so I just stick the wire in the hole and solder both together at the same time.

Try not to overheat the center connector and toast the insulator (I think it is silicone and pretty hardy tho). You only need a very little bit of wire exposed; you don't want wire to touch from center to outside/ground. I've been known to put a segment of heat shrink tube on the wire, solder it, then slip the shrink tube down into the atty over the center connector and shrink it.

ALWAYS check that you have no short between the outside/ground and the center with a multi-meter. Make sure that you gently wiggle it around and still get no short. It's tough to solder to the center connector, and to the ground and not bridge it, so be careful.

As for wires/LEDs ( and other leads)... I put heat-shrink tube on 1st, slide it away form the joint, twist the wires together, heat both, flow solder. Put heat shrink tube over exposed wires and shrink it.

Basically, as long as you get both the parts hot enough, and don't touch the solder to the iron, you'll be ok. If they get too hot, you can destroy/melt the part. Welcome to the wonderful world of soldering.

P.S. Use lead free solder.

P.P.S. Note that LEDs have a "polarity"... they are diodes so they only allow current to flow in one direction. USUALLY, the shorter lead wire is the ground side of the LED. Resistors, (generally speaking) have no polarity.
 
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KYFlyer67

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Thanks for quick reply. yeh an extra pair of hands would be great. another question does anyone know of that device they have that has alligater clips on them and its called helping hands. sorry thast the best i could explain it. i guess a hobby shop will have them but maybe i will try Harbor Freights later. that tool could sure come in handy when you are by yourself and need a hand. Thanks again guys
hey light are u stationed in US Army APO address?

I bought one at Harbor freight today on sale for $2.99! I couldn't believe the price. It's a cheapo, but still - $2.99?!
 

Mark Linehan

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I think 25 watt would be fine. The only other things I can think of is...

1. Don't use lead solder because lead + people = bad news
2. Always heat the part and never the solder, if the solder melts on the iron instead of the part you end up with a cold solder joint, and they tend to break
3. Yes, you can "tin" the wire which is always recommended when soldering onto a flat contact like the outside of a battery connector
4. If you get a little heavy with the solder, use braided copper wire and rosin to draw off the excess solder, or to unsolder a bad joint altogether

EDIT : 5. NEVER, never, never, ever try to catch a hot soldering iron if you drop it or it rolls off the table. Otherwise you stand a real good chance of creating
a very nice soldering iron imprint on the palm of your hand.

That's basically what I remember from my olden soldering days. Keep in mind it has been over 2 decades since I picked up an iron.

Mark Linehan

 
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AttyPops

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Soldering guns.... not as easy to use as an iron. The nice pointed tip of an iron helps.

If you buy an iron (and you may not have to) ... I have a variable voltage... not a high-end one, but it helps esp. with the outside of the connector. More mass to heat. Ensure that they have replacement tips and pick up an extra tip if you can.

In general, 25 watts should be fine. The gun may work for you.... depends on the tip. You're not soldering fine surface mount PCB components here. Having solder braid (as Mark explained) is nice too.
 

Mark Linehan

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ROFL!! I laugh because that brings back memories! I have an image of myself doing that during a test in electronics assembly classes. The class had these vices, but they were mounted on the side of the benches, and the benches were very wide and the vices were too far off to the side, so it was difficult to work with the vice, everyone else was moving back and forth on the bench or trying to balance their pcb's or weigh down one end of them. I just sat there like you said. Solder in my mouth, LOL.
 
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