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levisdaddy,
The design flaw in the AnyVape CVI V2 is that current is carried from the battery (+) pin in the bottom of the control head to the board by a microscopic spring (barely over 1mm diameter) that is soldered to the bottom center of the board. An identical spring soldered at the top right corner of the board (LCD side) carries battery (-) to the bottom of the ego connector ring, with the plan being that the board "floats" on springs that will never allow interruption of the ground circuit. Because people get curious and unscrew the ego connector at the top, undue lateral force is applied to the spring and it breaks. Due to its microscopic size, it is beyond the competent soldering skills of hobbyists. Additionally, people trying to remove the board from its slot in the head are unaware that battery (-) is supplied to the board by a 1 1/4" piece of wire that is soldered in the same hole on the board as the spring that broke, with its other end bared enough to "pinch" between the white plastic washer pressed in to the bottom and the side of the conductive silver switch barrel.
I restored the continuity of mine by pressing an additional piece of wire 1 3/4" long with 1/8" stripped bare at each end (along with the one supplying (-) to the board) up the opposite side of the barrel from the LCD display and carefully screwing its other bare end into the threads where the ego connector screws in to the top of the head unit. This effectively "jumps" the (-) from the conductive switch barrel to the chrome ego head assembly (bypassing the non-conductive smoked plastic barrel section that you view the LCD through).
No solder required. Mine has been working well now for 3 weeks ... a lot longer than it lasted when I first got it!
Proper disassembly of the head requires:
1. Extracting the (+) pin from the 510 part of the ego connector by 1/2" - 3/4" so that the pin may be desoldered and set aside.
(failure to do so creates a lot of flexing at the point where that (+) wire is soldered to the board as you unscrew the ego connector)
2. Unscrew the chrome ego head from the smoked plastic barrel section.
3. Carefully, using a skinny, stiff probe at least 3" long (preferably no more than 1/8" diameter) push the white plastic washer out of the bottom of the control unit starting with the side opposite the LCD.
4. Slide the board from its slot in the silver switch housing barrel.
Could this also have something to do with the center pin in mine sinking down?
If you are referring to the center pin in the ego connector:
Not unless in going through the continuity fix for the broken spring issue I described above, someone removed the silicone grommet that surrounds and supports that center pin and installed it upside down. That grommet has a thicker head on one end that is designed to insulate the center pin from being pushed to the point of short against the ego connector. The narrower end of the grommet faces the board, and is designed that way to make installation and replacement from the top easier. If accidently installed backwards, it would easily "sink down". The repair I outlined above requires removing only the pin, not the grommet that insulates it. If it is properly installed and still sinking down, it is either damaged from high heat, deteriorated from use or pushed through from having a poorly designed atomizer with a "too-long" center pin screwed down on to it. It is easily replaced, but that ideally requires extraction of the pin, desoldering and removal of the pin from its wire, removal of the defective grommet, then sliding the new grommet down the wire for reseating, resoldering the wire to the pin and then reseating the pin in the new grommet.
If you are referring to the (battery contact) center pin that is screwed in to the hole in the white plastic washer at the bottom of the control head:
That pin could conceivable loosen to the point that it no longer makes contact with the microscopic spring that is soldered to the bottom of the control board to supply (+) to the board. It should be firmly seated in its plastic threads (but not so tight as to damage or strip those threads).
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