Questions related to my adopted mini

[Vegastar]

A dear friend of mine sold me what I now consider to be an adopted child, a lil red on black mini. She's been a good girl, still needs a little makeup when I have more time, but she's left me with questions.

1. I know she's an older model. How old? Erm... I'm not sure. Can't find the birth certificate anywhere. All he could tell me is that she's got the older feeding tube. I had Squonking on my 306s down for a while, but it's giving me trouble now. Feels like I'm having to push harder to get the juice to go through. Is there a way to get the newer, wider tube in this puppy, or does she need a brother? I'm really not adverse to getting ahold of a blue grande for a big brother sometime soon.

2. Though not directly related, I keep killing atomizers because the friggin drip tips are getting stuck on and ripping them clean in half. I know not to push them all the way down, but it seems over time something is getting them stuck on anyway. I've accidentally murdered 3 cherry vapes cannons and as many attys in a month or so. Clear ones cracked trying to get the shell out, the black delrin one has a shell permanently stuck inside that no force of screwdriver, pliers or force of concentrated telekinetic effort can remove. This is a problem, too. I'm ordering some io6 in the near future and I'd hate to massacre those, too

3. I see people often refer to giving their reo a bath. I like the idea of this, I assume you remove atty, tip, battery and bottle and just soak the thing, but what's the drying time? Any worry that certain areas won't dry and cause some serious brain damage? Anything special to look out for?

4. I seem to have typed an insane amount of text here. I'm sorry for that.

 

[moonsbabe]

Well lots of questions there! LOL! Just kidding. First thing is give that baby a bath. I hold mine under the hot water faucet. Remove battery, atomizer, and bottle. Be sure to let the water run down the tube. It sounds like it might be stopped up. As far as drying time, I just blow it with the hair dryer for a minute or two and it's good to go for me.

 

[Vegastar]

Bath = success. She feels so clean, and that did help out with the feeding tube a good bit, too. Plus I got to detail some of the crud out of the button spinner. I was just worried about ending up with water trapped in any crevices that'd surprise short my battery a little later on.

Raises another question!

I know what the screw on the bottom is for. What's the one inside near the top of the body? It screams "don't screw with me!" every time I look at it cross, but I want to know what it does!

 

[nerak]

That screw in the top portion holds the black delrin in place as a cover. Behind it is the firing mechanism. You really don't need to go "in there"! That screw connects in the back and have heard it can be a real pain to get in right. Many have stripped the screw while trying.

About your drip tips getting stuck. Well, you might try taking them off while your atty is still on the Mini. If that doesn't work you might try putting them in the freezer for a little while. Sometimes the cold will let them loosen.

That bath does work wonders! Very nice to have a REO that can be submerged!

 

[Vegastar]

That screw in the top portion holds the black delrin in place as a cover. Behind it is the firing mechanism. You really don't need to go "in there"! That screw connects in the back and have heard it can be a real pain to get in right. Many have stripped the screw while trying.

About your drip tips getting stuck. Well, you might try taking them off while your atty is still on the Mini. If that doesn't work you might try putting them in the freezer for a little while. Sometimes the cold will let them loosen.

That bath does work wonders! Very nice to have a REO that can be submerged!

Freezer... I will keep that in mind. Sounds like as good a theory as any! Thanks.

And yes. This is why I like mechanical things more than anything. I'm prone to... Uh... Breaking stuff. There's no real way around that. This is a device I can get wet, drop repeatedly and carry around day and night, and no matter how much abuse my clumsy oaf of a body will inflict, at the end of the day, it still works.

Headed to the store to buy a little tube of noalox as well. Been meaning to do that...

 

[lostknitter]

I always buy my cartos from CCV. I will continue buying from CCV because of their prices and I have received good service from them. With that said, I got 3 boxes in October (I write the date of receipt on the boxes and I always buy their 15 Carto Deal) and they are just a touch smaller than they should be. My Drip Tips wont fit, the draw is VERY tight on them and they keep getting plugged up. I put them aside and opened a box from November and they are fine. Sometimes the QC at the ole factory isn't paying attention. That may be what is going on in your case too.

 

[FeistyAlice]

A dear friend of mine sold me what I now consider to be an adopted child, a lil red on black mini. She's been a good girl, still needs a little makeup when I have more time, but she's left me with questions.

1. I know she's an older model. How old? Erm... I'm not sure. Can't find the birth certificate anywhere. All he could tell me is that she's got the older feeding tube.

In a hurry so will answer your very first question. First, congratulatiions.

REO, Robert, has used at least three millers, that take the block of aircraft aluminum and mill it to the basic shape of the REO. Each miller uses equipment that leaves distinctive marks on the finish inside.

First - swiriling "brush" marks going in a pattern.
Second - no swirling, unlike first, but a distinctive groove pattern, going around inside, that is squarish with rounded corners. With this "square" pattern, you will find an almost oval shaped "eye" at one point in the pattern. It looks somewhat like a human eye, with a center circle.
Third - no swirling, unlike first, but distinctive grove patterns, going around inside, that is round.

They are then tumbled or polished before they are sent to the anodizer.

REO, Robert, has used several anodizers. He is constantly striving for the best quality milling and anodization and quality of service.

You can somewhat date your metal REO by the tooling marks on the inside back of the REO. This is the best way to date them.

The first run of the Mini, mid 2010, have swirling brush marks going, in a pattern, around the back. There were very few of these produced and were the first Metal REOs that were produced. Most people are not aware of this very first run of Mini.

The second production of Metal REOs were the Buff Anodized and Bare Polished or Brushed Grands. These, too, have the swirling, brush type, marks, inside. There was only one run of the Buff Grands.

The next run of Mini Fall 2010, also have the swirling brush marks. Many or most of those Mini were polished before they were sent to the anodizers.

I'm not sure when the next run of Grands were and if they were Polished or not. With the polished, first, then anodized you cannot see any base figuring under the anodized coating, and they are very shiny. I think they were mostly anodized after a tumble and a few were polished before anodizing.

Some time in late 2010 REO, Robert, changed millers. That is when we see the first inside pattern that is distinct square pattern with rounded corners, inside. I have Mini and Grands, with this pattern. I have a polished Grand with this pattern.

Some time in early to mid 2011, REO, Robert, again, changed millers, and this is where we see the distinct lines, in a circular pattern. As far as I know he is still using that miller.

In early 2011 REO, Robert, changed the shape of the firing pin where it contacts the positive part of battery. Instead of being flat, and somewhat, square, with bevel edges, he started cutting them to a point and bending down the very end, to make better contact with the battery.

At some point in 2011, REO, Robert started putting larger tubes on the Mini and Grand. I think it was late 2011 (somebody correct me, if needed) None of my square lined Mini have the large tube native and some of my round lined Mini (latest miller) have the small tube native. ( I haven't checked my Grands. The change to large tube on Grands and Mini may have come around the same time but I am not sure.

Keep in mind that some older Metal REOs have been sent in to REO Spa for firing pin upgrades and/or large tube. The pointy firing pins were the first "upgrades" to be performed by REO, so you will find pointy firing pins with small tubes, on Grands and Mini. Most of my older Grands, that have had the firing pin upgraded still have the small tube. (I actually prefer the smaller tube, especially on the Mini, as they are easier for me to grasp the bottle cap to unscrew the bottle.)

Hope this helps some. I'm sure some other REOnauts can fill in some blanks.

Alice

 

[Vegastar]

Well, a bath and a dab of noalox and I get why you guys always love getting a brand new one. Wish I'd have had a new atty to throw on and make it complete. Oh well.

Also... Westamyx... Did you just date my reo like a tree? What kind of sorcery is this... That was cool. I'm a sucker for random knowledge. I think your dating puts me with an early 2011 one, then. I've got the pointy pin, but thin tubing, and what looks like a Spirograph of shiny circles ending in a circular "eye" behind the battery. Neato!

 

[FeistyAlice]

Well, a bath and a dab of noalox and I get why you guys always love getting a brand new one. Wish I'd have had a new atty to throw on and make it complete. Oh well.

Also... Westamyx... Did you just date my reo like a tree? What kind of sorcery is this... That was cool. I'm a sucker for random knowledge. I think your dating puts me with an early 2011 one, then. I've got the pointy pin, but thin tubing, and what looks like a Spirograph of shiny circles ending in a circular "eye" behind the battery. Neato!

<----------------- Current avatar is first "REOs." Three runs of "Woodys"; third edition early 2010. No more WOODs until the introduction of the Woodvil, with rounded sides. Second it first run Grands, Buff. Third is little known first run Mini (before first run of Grands)

My DH, married 36 years (and he is a "walking encyclopedia" of sorts) has always called me an "information suck." He adds, also, that I have a "vast repository of mostly useless information." I don't entirely agree with him on the later.

Welcome new REOnaut.

Alice

{edit} Glad I could help.

 

[redeyedancer]

In a hurry so will answer your very first question. First, congratulatiions.

REO, Robert, has used at least three millers, that take the block of aircraft aluminum and mill it to the basic shape of the REO. Each miller uses equipment that leaves distinctive marks on the finish inside.

First - swiriling "brush" marks going in a pattern.
Second - no swirling, unlike first, but a distinctive groove pattern, going around inside, that is squarish with rounded corners. With this "square" pattern, you will find an almost oval shaped "eye" at one point in the pattern. It looks somewhat like a human eye, with a center circle.
Third - no swirling, unlike first, but distinctive grove patterns, going around inside, that is round.

They are then tumbled or polished before they are sent to the anodizer.

REO, Robert, has used several anodizers. He is constantly striving for the best quality milling and anodization and quality of service.

You can somewhat date your metal REO by the tooling marks on the inside back of the REO. This is the best way to date them.

The first run of the Mini, mid 2010, have swirling brush marks going, in a pattern, around the back. There were very few of these produced and were the first Metal REOs that were produced. Most people are not aware of this very first run of Mini.

The second production of Metal REOs were the Buff Anodized and Bare Polished or Brushed Grands. These, too, have the swirling, brush type, marks, inside. There was only one run of the Buff Grands.

The next run of Mini Fall 2010, also have the swirling brush marks. Many or most of those Mini were polished before they were sent to the anodizers.

I'm not sure when the next run of Grands were and if they were Polished or not. With the polished, first, then anodized you cannot see any base figuring under the anodized coating, and they are very shiny. I think they were mostly anodized after a tumble and a few were polished before anodizing.

Some time in late 2010 REO, Robert, changed millers. That is when we see the first inside pattern that is distinct square pattern with rounded corners, inside. I have Mini and Grands, with this pattern. I have a polished Grand with this pattern.

Some time in early to mid 2011, REO, Robert, again, changed millers, and this is where we see the distinct lines, in a circular pattern. As far as I know he is still using that miller.

In early 2011 REO, Robert, changed the shape of the firing pin where it contacts the positive part of battery. Instead of being flat, and somewhat, square, with bevel edges, he started cutting them to a point and bending down the very end, to make better contact with the battery.

At some point in 2011, REO, Robert started putting larger tubes on the Mini and Grand. I think it was late 2011 (somebody correct me, if needed) None of my square lined Mini have the large tube native and some of my round lined Mini (latest miller) have the small tube native. ( I haven't checked my Grands. The change to large tube on Grands and Mini may have come around the same time but I am not sure.

Keep in mind that some older Metal REOs have been sent in to REO Spa for firing pin upgrades and/or large tube. The pointy firing pins were the first "upgrades" to be performed by REO, so you will find pointy firing pins with small tubes, on Grands and Mini. Most of my older Grands, that have had the firing pin upgraded still have the small tube. (I actually prefer the smaller tube, especially on the Mini, as they are easier for me to grasp the bottle cap to unscrew the bottle.)

Hope this helps some. I'm sure some other REOnauts can fill in some blanks.

Alice

Holy Alice I couldn't have blurted that out you no more about reos then I do and I build them

 

[redeyedancer]

Welcome Vegastar

 

[washvap]

Welcome new REOnaut!!

A dear friend of mine sold me what I now consider to be an adopted child, a lil red on black mini. She's been a good girl, still needs a little makeup when I have more time, but she's left me with questions.


2. Though not directly related, I keep killing atomizers because the friggin drip tips are getting stuck on and ripping them clean in half. I know not to push them all the way down, but it seems over time something is getting them stuck on anyway. I've accidentally murdered 3 cherry vapes cannons and as many attys in a month or so. Clear ones cracked trying to get the shell out, the black delrin one has a shell permanently stuck inside that no force of screwdriver, pliers or force of concentrated telekinetic effort can remove. This is a problem, too. I'm ordering some io6 in the near future and I'd hate to massacre those, too

It's better to give your atty's a rest after a little bit. Since if it gets to hot then the drip tips can get stuck like you have described. For example, let it rest for a couple minutes after 5 hits. This will let the atty cool down. It's basically the same effect that you would have if you had dry burned them.

Never used the cannons but, here are a couple that you could try out:

XL306 Contoured Twisted Acrylic 306 Drip Tip - Avid Vaper
*Acrylic drip tips deal with heat much better then delrin tips IMO

306 drip tips small hole
*Pyrex tips are known to deal with heat well. If you melt this then I don't know what else will work for you.

3. I see people often refer to giving their reo a bath. I like the idea of this, I assume you remove atty, tip, battery and bottle and just soak the thing, but what's the drying time? Any worry that certain areas won't dry and cause some serious brain damage? Anything special to look out for?

It's an all mechanical mod and so, you don't have to worry about the water damaging anything. You just have to use some noalox on the firing pin after it's dried. If you were to air dry it, then I would give it a few days. Which is where backup mods/REO's come in handy.

 

[FeistyAlice]

I have several Pyrex in all flavors, type of atty and shape. Love them for the feel and look and they do make proper squonking a 306 much easier as you can see how the juice surrounds the mesh bridge.

My vaping style lends itself to rarely overheating the atty. As such I havn't had any issues with the Canons getting stuck, even the non-delrin getting stuck or melted. The white and black Canons are delrin so they are tougher and more heat resistant. The early clear Canons, before Cherry Vape changed the formula, tended to cloud and crack even with moderate use and vaping style that lets the atty cool between vapes, as I generally do.

I did, though, have a 306 Pyrex get stuck on an atty. Some of my juices tend to clog up most 306 pretty quickly so that I have to clean the atty at least weekly, usually more frequently. I really like a certain feel draw so frequent cleaning helps me to keep this consistent. The Pyrex, 306, not forced on, sat pretty snuggly on the atty to begin with. (I have about 6 x 306 Pyrex and every single one is a different inside diameter. Also, 306 attys vary slightly in outside diameter from manufacturer to manufacturer and even in same lot from same manufacturer.) For some unknown reason I was able to keep one atty on my REO for two weeks before it needed cleaning. That is when the Pyrex DT became stuck. I tried all kinds of ways to remove the DT without breaking it, including boiling and cleaning the atty, with DT attached, in the sonic jewelry cleaner, using hot water, cold water, and PGA=pure grain alcohol. It wouldn't come off. So after cleaning and dry-burning the atty, I put it back on REO and used it for another two weeks. After cleaning the "pair" again, I place the "pair" in the fridge for overnight and it slipped right off the next morning. BTW... If you have an old 510 battery or, even, better, an eGo type battery, it makes doing stuff to 510 attys much easier as you have a "handle" on them.

Another time I had a Wood REO door, that was tight to begin with, get stuck, on. After leaving it in the fridge, overnight, in a bag to keep moisture out (moisture can make the wood swell) I was able to remove the door, with little enough force, so as not to damage the Woodvil or its door.

Washvape's advice is very good about letting the atty cool some while vaping.

Alice

 

[moonsbabe]

Bath = success. She feels so clean, and that did help out with the feeding tube a good bit, too. Plus I got to detail some of the crud out of the button spinner. I was just worried about ending up with water trapped in any crevices that'd surprise short my battery a little later on.

Raises another question!

I know what the screw on the bottom is for. What's the one inside near the top of the body? It screams "don't screw with me!" every time I look at it cross, but I want to know what it does!

I don't think anyone told you what the bottom screw was for? That one holds the spring in place. It is a special spring that collapses if there is a problem with a atty or carto. Very smart! So you might want to get with Rob and order one, just in case! I am still using the original one but my husband had to replace his. Welcome too, by the way!!

Edit: never mind! I can't read today!