On my Provari Mini, I get about 3 hours at 4.7V with a 3ohm atomizer on a single 18350 battery. I just got a Bogger Box, which uses two stacked 18350 batteries. Is there some way to calculate the battery life I'll get at the same voltage/resistance?
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There probably is... we have some Electronics Engineers on the forum that could... if they knew all the parameters of exact battery, exact vaping draw, the circuit designs for both and the exact resistance of the device and the carto/atty. Otherwise, there's a lot of variability.
Buck is different than boost. So 2 batteries in series (7.4 volts), and lowering the voltage (buck) rather than upping the voltage (boost), is generally more efficient. Depends a lot on the regulator used on that specific device. Got a link? The buck/boost devices are probably more efficient (switching regulators), but it's hard to say without part #'s. When it's stacked, and you just need to reduce voltage, a linear regulator dissipates the voltage difference as heat, and is a lot more inefficient than a switching regulator, for example. See all the variables? I have no idea what the heck a bogger box is, let alone the part #'s for the regulator inside it.
Bottom line is for you to time it and tell us. A lot easier. lol. Sorry. There is no set rule that I'm familiar with. Would be interesting to have a ball-park estimation formula. Would depend on device efficiency though.
Buck is different than boost. So 2 batteries in series (7.4 volts), and lowering the voltage (buck) rather than upping the voltage (boost), is generally more efficient. Depends a lot on the regulator used on that specific device. Got a link? The buck/boost devices are probably more efficient (switching regulators), but it's hard to say without part #'s. When it's stacked, and you just need to reduce voltage, a linear regulator dissipates the voltage difference as heat, and is a lot more inefficient than a switching regulator, for example. See all the variables? I have no idea what the heck a bogger box is, let alone the part #'s for the regulator inside it.
Bottom line is for you to time it and tell us. A lot easier. lol. Sorry. There is no set rule that I'm familiar with. Would be interesting to have a ball-park estimation formula. Would depend on device efficiency though.
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Okay, so not a quick question then. 
So it sounds like the real hangup is knowing how the one mod boosts a single 18350 and how the other one bucks stacked 18350s. Let's say I was vaping at 3.7V on both devices then; if the regulator on the stacked mod is just dissipating leftover voltage, will it pull 7.4V and dissipate 3.7V as heat? Likewise, if it's a switching regulator, would it pull only 1.85V from each battery thus doubling the life?
So it sounds like the real hangup is knowing how the one mod boosts a single 18350 and how the other one bucks stacked 18350s. Let's say I was vaping at 3.7V on both devices then; if the regulator on the stacked mod is just dissipating leftover voltage, will it pull 7.4V and dissipate 3.7V as heat? Likewise, if it's a switching regulator, would it pull only 1.85V from each battery thus doubling the life?
I have a feeling they're using this "DC DC StepDown power module" since it's the one he sells under parts: http://www.boggerboxmods.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=63&product_id=53
It would also fit with his potentiometer design.
This LM2596 is a voltage switching regulator providing capable of driving a 2A (max.3A) load with excellent line and load regulation.
Dimension: 43 (L) * 20.5 (W) * 14 (H) mm (with potentiometer)
Input voltage: 4.5-40V
voltag Input voltage must be higher than the output to 1.5v or more
Output Voltage: 1.5-35V (adjustable)
Output current: Rated current 2A, maximum 3A (Additional heat sink is required),
Conversion efficiency: Up to 92% (O/P voltage higher, the higher the efficiency)
It would also fit with his potentiometer design.
This LM2596 is a voltage switching regulator providing capable of driving a 2A (max.3A) load with excellent line and load regulation.
Dimension: 43 (L) * 20.5 (W) * 14 (H) mm (with potentiometer)
Input voltage: 4.5-40V
voltag Input voltage must be higher than the output to 1.5v or more
Output Voltage: 1.5-35V (adjustable)
Output current: Rated current 2A, maximum 3A (Additional heat sink is required),
Conversion efficiency: Up to 92% (O/P voltage higher, the higher the efficiency)
I honestly don't know how to crank the exact #. Lower voltages are less efficient than higher voltages. The experts in the modder's forum may help, I think they often use these or something similar. The % efficiency is max 92% and that would be near the 35 volt rating (not for e-cig use that high of course). And the e-cig range is near the bottom of the scale, not the top. The switching reg is still better than a linear, though. So glad he used that one.
Stay away from DCC's unless you discuss that with him. The 3 amp limit is exceeded by the DCC's requirements at 5 volts (1.6 ohm DCC at 5 volts = 3.75 amps) however, the load is intermittent rather than constant. A heat sink would help too. So IDK, but I'd ask if I was using DCCs to be sure. Doesn't hurt to ask.
Stay away from DCC's unless you discuss that with him. The 3 amp limit is exceeded by the DCC's requirements at 5 volts (1.6 ohm DCC at 5 volts = 3.75 amps) however, the load is intermittent rather than constant. A heat sink would help too. So IDK, but I'd ask if I was using DCCs to be sure. Doesn't hurt to ask.
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