Quick voltage drop question

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jifjifjif

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Hello, fine REOkin.

I've got a used/new to me Grand that is hitting much lighter than my daily driver Grand.

It was anodized and I stripped the color off; down to raw aluminum. Old style 510 but subohm contacts.

The same RM2 that comes in at .43 ohms was tested at the atty posts: first on my daily driver silvervein grand with subohm contacts and NEW 510 and came in at 3.62 volts. Moved the same atty to the aluminum Grand and 3.28. Battery is the LG HE2 18650 and is reading 4.13 volts.

I've got clean springs with deoxit on and under them. Contacts are coated with Deoxit. I've covered all bases. So....

Does the 510 make that much of a difference or is the silvervein finish somehow helping the voltage pass through?

Thanks in advance.
 

nerak

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Just a thought here. Maybe the contact inside the 510 is different. The old standard 510 is pre-set to a specific depth. The new 510 being adjustable might be set a tad lower and not making as solid a contact. I would suggest raising the center post a little and taking a reading.
 

redeyedancer

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There is no difference from the old 510 to the new 510 as far as v drop goes . something as simple as one atty being tightened more then the other can effect v drop there are so many variables when it comes to v drop . Make sure the screw hole for the spring is clean also make sure part of the positive contacts insulator isn't sandwiched between the center post . I would give the positive contact a second good cleaning as well
 

Rule62

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I don't know about the difference in conductivity between the old and new 510s. All 4 of my metal Grands have been converted. However, just my experience: I've sanded the area under the spring on 3 of mine; 1 I have not. I just never got around to it. But, I've found that it doesn't make any difference. The one that has not been sanded, seems to hit as well as the ones that have been sanded. What I have found, however, is that the most important thing, connection wise, is the screw that holds the spring, and the hole. I use my Woodvils, mainly, so my metals will sit sometimes for several weeks, between uses. I picked one of my metals up, one day a week or so ago, to take golfing with me. I filled the bottle, put in a fresh battery, and when checking it out, it was hitting more weakly than it should have. I cleaned off the positive contact, applied some Deoxit, put the battery back in, and there wasn't much difference. Finally, I decided to take the spring out, cleaned out the hole in the bottom of the Reo with some alcohol, dabbed a little Noalox in there with a tooth pick, and put everything back together. There it was! vaping like a champ. End result: That spring screw and hole gets overlooked, in the cleaning process. But it's important.
 

jifjifjif

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All good thoughts. I'll try tinkering with these things. The spring screw hole in the mod is out of shape because looking at the bottom of the mod, the screw is not flush with the mod bottom, it's further in than flush. The screw itself is new. I changed it when I got the mod. Maybe the hole needs a cleaning.
 

SteamStack

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All good thoughts. I'll try tinkering with these things. The spring screw hole in the mod is out of shape because looking at the bottom of the mod, the screw is not flush with the mod bottom, it's further in than flush. The screw itself is new. I changed it when I got the mod. Maybe the hole needs a cleaning.

I bet that's it.. I clean my holes every so often.

Also if the screw Isin't flush remove the screw and file/sand the head and dry fit it to the mod and see if it's flush now.. if not repeat. When it's good then put the spring in.
 

SteamStack

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Only other thing can be the spring itself. If it's easy to rotate the spring while it's in the mod then the rivit that's holding the spring to the plate is loose. Soldering the spring rivit will make it solid and give you maximum connectivity.

Rob mention this a while ago asking if people would want to buy soldered springs for less vdrop.
 

jifjifjif

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Ok, results....

Changed spring after cleaning up the screw hole. ....same bad voltage drop

Closely inspected the firing pin and noticed that the plating was missing in a nice straight line right where it makes contact with the battery. Changed the firing pin and the voltage drop is back on par with my daily driver. Fixed!

Thanks, everyone, for the suggestions.

Note: Having spare parts is awesome. I'm patting myself on the back right now.

Merry Christmas to all.
 

SteamStack

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Awesome!

Yes spare parts are a must!!

In fact I just saved my wifes friend from works new reo sl/lp black anodized!

I sold it to her maybe 2 weeks ago as her reo vv grand was dying a second time.

Here she tells me she broke it.. and I was like you cant break a reo.. I check it out (after swapping it with mine for the night) and she snapped the contact pin in half!!

She's like 31 years old and snapped that baby with in 2 weeks! Haha must be stress at the job durring the holidays... works in retail sales.

Anyways.. I had 2 back up gold contact pins and swapped it out in a hurry.. seriously easy to do with the new ss 510! No fear of snapping/cracking thst ss nipple when you tighten it back up. Gave it a quick bath and then made my first ever custom sized oring to place under the button cap so she can't break it again!

I've been vaping on reos for 5 years now and have never broke a contact.. I told her your what we call on reos mods forums a button masher!! Haha

I also have 3 extra gold springs and a few magnets as they will fall off eventually... I've repaired missing magnets at least 3 times and never anything else... yet.

Merry Christmas to you too!
 
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