I have tried using a nickel build with the Tug Boat V2 and Plume Veil clone. Used a single coil 30. I am having trouble getting a good connection. Can you tighten the coils under the screws instead of the post holes? Has anyone tried that?
RDA and Nickel
- Thread starter CharleyDanger
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Sure! That's the way it was done when men were men and women were women like... just a few years ago. There were no post holes, and you actually had to tighten it while walking uphill in the snow.
And yeah, nickel wire isn't making any friends for making coils, and shortly a tazmanian devil named InvisibleHandy will show up and fill you in on looking at titanium. Try to avoid direct eye contact and you'll be fine.
And yeah, nickel wire isn't making any friends for making coils, and shortly a tazmanian devil named InvisibleHandy will show up and fill you in on looking at titanium. Try to avoid direct eye contact and you'll be fine.
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lol
I have been seeing conflicting reports.... Should you heat and clamp the nickel coil before installing?
Evolv, the chipmaker, states that the nickel wire should not be wound with coils touching; there goes the microcoil. They also say that wire contact to the posts must be extra good and they prefer you don't pass the wire through holes. Wrap it around a screw securely instead. If contact is that important, I'd venture to say that the RBA must have excellent contact with the center post, etc.
I've yet to pull the trigger on a DNA40. If the concept works and proves reliable, more will jump on the wagon. Right now it's a little rare and a little expensive for me to grab one just yet.
I've seen titanium wire on several sites and for what it takes to make a coil it definitely isn't overpriced.
I've yet to pull the trigger on a DNA40. If the concept works and proves reliable, more will jump on the wagon. Right now it's a little rare and a little expensive for me to grab one just yet.
I've seen titanium wire on several sites and for what it takes to make a coil it definitely isn't overpriced.
Being that I have yet to make a solid nickel coil, I am not sure if the DNA 40 was worth it either lol. I like a warmer vape, and I have heard that the nickel is a bit on the cooler side (being that you keep the temp low enough to avoid dry hits... and what is the point of it if you do not keep it low enough to avoid dry hits lol)
This is my first regulated device. So it was either get a 150 watt box or DNA 40 box. All of the 30 boxes were almost as much as the 40s, and anything above 50 watts is too hot for my blood.
Bussdriver (Was "busdriver" really taken?) filled you in on what Evolv says above, but so you understand -- if you look at an RDA you've got your build deck and negative posts built into it, and your center positive that's insulated from it. As long as you make sure via the screw that you're getting a good solid connection against the posts, you're OK. You may end up adding a few millimeters to the legs of the coil.
I've only done kanthal/nichrome -- zero experience with pure nickel, so I don't know. :/ But by repeating it hopefully someone'll see it.
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NI200 is a little harder to work with. I use 30 gauge and twist it, with a drill. I find when twisted it becomes a little stiffer and easier to work with.
I build the same way with NI200 as I do with kanthol. I coil then use tweezers and torch it. After all that it is still softer than kanthol and requires a soft touch so as not to distort the coil during installation and wicking
I build the same way with NI200 as I do with kanthol. I coil then use tweezers and torch it. After all that it is still softer than kanthol and requires a soft touch so as not to distort the coil during installation and wicking
Psssss....toss your nickel in the trash where it belongs and use titanium grade 1, I gotz a whole thread going on it right now in this very same section dude!!!!!!!!! I will NEVER go back to garbage nickel again!!!!!!!!!!!
Pfffff...soft touch??? I feel like I am trying to play "doctor" with that crap lol
Temp control...totally worth it BUT not with nickel, use titanium and set it however you like, this crap is AMAZING!!!!!!!
Is it the same as nickel in that 410 degrees is about the cutoff point to avoid burnt hits? How warm is the vape at 410-450?
Oh no, the temp settings are different with titanium just a little, here...View attachment DNA40 Nickel Titanium sheet - Table(1).pdf
Damn, so about 285. So the Ti is a pretty cool vape, then?
Charley,
I think what InvisibleHand's table means is that if you want to vape at 410F but you're using Titanium, you set the DNA40 to 285F.
The temperature still gets regulated to 410.
But I find it a bit confusing, IH, could you give a little better explanation? (Or is there another thread where you discussed the table in more detail?
I just found out there is a tempered NI 200 It is suppose to be stiffer like Kanthol I just ordered some from here Nickel ni200 DNA40 Wire
Hopefully it is easier to work with
Hopefully it is easier to work with
I just found out there is a tempered NI 200 It is suppose to be stiffer like Kanthol I just ordered some from here Nickel ni200 DNA40 Wire
Hopefully it is easier to work with
Yeah itz easier butz still not "enjoyable" IMO
Correct, if you want it to be at 410 F(like with nickel) then you set the Ti to either 280 F or 290 F (since you want 285 you gotta pick one or the other), once you know that it's no different than setting it like you do with nickel
Itz the same as with nickel, so if you want 410 F you set it to 280 F or 290 F (since the DNA settings are in increments of 10)
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