RDA and Nickel

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drunkenbatman

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Sure! That's the way it was done when men were men and women were women like... just a few years ago. There were no post holes, and you actually had to tighten it while walking uphill in the snow.

And yeah, nickel wire isn't making any friends for making coils, and shortly a tazmanian devil named InvisibleHandy will show up and fill you in on looking at titanium. Try to avoid direct eye contact and you'll be fine.
 
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CharleyDanger

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Sure! That's the way it was done when men were men and women were women like... just a few years ago. There were no post holes, and you actually had to tighten it while walking uphill in the snow.

And yeah, nickel wire isn't making any friends for making coils, and shortly a tazmanian devil named InvisibleHandy will show up and fill you in on looking at titanium. Try to avoid direct eye contact and you'll be fine.

lol

I have been seeing conflicting reports.... Should you heat and clamp the nickel coil before installing?
 

bussdriver

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Evolv, the chipmaker, states that the nickel wire should not be wound with coils touching; there goes the microcoil. They also say that wire contact to the posts must be extra good and they prefer you don't pass the wire through holes. Wrap it around a screw securely instead. If contact is that important, I'd venture to say that the RBA must have excellent contact with the center post, etc.

I've yet to pull the trigger on a DNA40. If the concept works and proves reliable, more will jump on the wagon. Right now it's a little rare and a little expensive for me to grab one just yet.

I've seen titanium wire on several sites and for what it takes to make a coil it definitely isn't overpriced.
 

CharleyDanger

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Evolv, the chipmaker, states that the nickel wire should not be wound with coils touching; there goes the microcoil. They also say that wire contact to the posts must be extra good and they prefer you don't pass the wire through holes. Wrap it around a screw securely instead. If contact is that important, I'd venture to say that the RBA must have excellent contact with the center post, etc.

I've yet to pull the trigger on a DNA40. If the concept works and proves reliable, more will jump on the wagon. Right now it's a little rare and a little expensive for me to grab one just yet.

I've seen titanium wire on several sites and for what it takes to make a coil it definitely isn't overpriced.

Being that I have yet to make a solid nickel coil, I am not sure if the DNA 40 was worth it either lol. I like a warmer vape, and I have heard that the nickel is a bit on the cooler side (being that you keep the temp low enough to avoid dry hits... and what is the point of it if you do not keep it low enough to avoid dry hits lol)

This is my first regulated device. So it was either get a 150 watt box or DNA 40 box. All of the 30 boxes were almost as much as the 40s, and anything above 50 watts is too hot for my blood.
 

drunkenbatman

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lol

I have been seeing conflicting reports....

Bussdriver (Was "busdriver" really taken?) filled you in on what Evolv says above, but so you understand -- if you look at an RDA you've got your build deck and negative posts built into it, and your center positive that's insulated from it. As long as you make sure via the screw that you're getting a good solid connection against the posts, you're OK. You may end up adding a few millimeters to the legs of the coil.

Should you heat and clamp the nickel coil before installing?

I've only done kanthal/nichrome -- zero experience with pure nickel, so I don't know. :/ But by repeating it hopefully someone'll see it.
 
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Steamer861

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NI200 is a little harder to work with. I use 30 gauge and twist it, with a drill. I find when twisted it becomes a little stiffer and easier to work with.
I build the same way with NI200 as I do with kanthol. I coil then use tweezers and torch it. After all that it is still softer than kanthol and requires a soft touch so as not to distort the coil during installation and wicking
 

invisiblehand13

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NI200 is a little harder to work with. I use 30 gauge and twist it, with a drill. I find when twisted it becomes a little stiffer and easier to work with.
I build the same way with NI200 as I do with kanthol. I coil then use tweezers and torch it. After all that it is still softer than kanthol and requires a soft touch so as not to distort the coil during installation and wicking

Pfffff...soft touch??? I feel like I am trying to play "doctor" with that crap lol
 

invisiblehand13

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Being that I have yet to make a solid nickel coil, I am not sure if the DNA 40 was worth it either lol. I like a warmer vape, and I have heard that the nickel is a bit on the cooler side (being that you keep the temp low enough to avoid dry hits... and what is the point of it if you do not keep it low enough to avoid dry hits lol)

This is my first regulated device. So it was either get a 150 watt box or DNA 40 box. All of the 30 boxes were almost as much as the 40s, and anything above 50 watts is too hot for my blood.

Temp control...totally worth it BUT not with nickel, use titanium and set it however you like, this crap is AMAZING!!!!!!!
 

invisiblehand13

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twgbonehead

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Oh no, the temp settings are different with titanium just a little, here...View attachment 406587

Damn, so about 285. So the Ti is a pretty cool vape, then?

Charley,

I think what InvisibleHand's table means is that if you want to vape at 410F but you're using Titanium, you set the DNA40 to 285F.
The temperature still gets regulated to 410.

But I find it a bit confusing, IH, could you give a little better explanation? (Or is there another thread where you discussed the table in more detail?
 

invisiblehand13

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Charley,

I think what InvisibleHand's table means is that if you want to vape at 410F but you're using Titanium, you set the DNA40 to 285F.
The temperature still gets regulated to 410.

But I find it a bit confusing, IH, could you give a little better explanation? (Or is there another thread where you discussed the table in more detail?

Correct, if you want it to be at 410 F(like with nickel) then you set the Ti to either 280 F or 290 F (since you want 285 you gotta pick one or the other), once you know that it's no different than setting it like you do with nickel
 
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