RDA with copper deck?

[Crow2]

I just ordered an Infinite copper Cartel clone, and am looking for an rda that is entirely copper - not just the cap.

I dont know if that even exists but I plan on using a clear cap, so I'd like to only be seeing copper.

If there isnt such a thing, I think I'll just be getting another Tobh but in copper. Or is there something else I should look into?
I like the flat top look of the Tobh, and the single piece posts, so anything along those lines?

Thanks for your help!

 

[State O' Flux]

Although there are plenty of copper caps and posts, it's not too likely you'll find a copper deck rda. I'd imagine there are health concerns. The only non-SS deck rda that comes to mind is the bronze Chaos... and Vapor Royale has been "out of stock" for months.

You can heat color a SS deck (or an entire atty for that matter) with a butane hobby torch. A dark yellow gold to bronze color, that looks very much like dark copper, will occur with stainless at approximately 400-450F... depending on metallurgy.

I've heat colored several SS mechs, RBAs and DTs in shades of bronze, purple, violet and blue.
Takes a bit of practice (and a few cans of butane ) to get good at it... but, if you over heat it and go beyond the color you want, or it comes out blotchy... you can sand it down and start over.

I'd suggest using a Paps PnB tool (or DIY device) to hold the deck in a hand drill... to obtain even heat.

Copper also colors nicely when heat is applied.

 

[Crow2]

Thank you! That was my fall back plan if there was no such thing, as I think thatll look better than just SS with the copper.
I've heated my Nemesis clone to a nice blue with a blowtorch. I'm looking to buy a smaller torch for this purpose.


Do you know if heating the metals affects the conductivity of the mod?

It makes no sense to me but I tested the voltage drop on the Nemesis clone with a multi-meter when I first got it, though Im not too sure of the accuracy of this particular meter. I dont remember the exact drop really but it was no more than about .3-.4 loss.

I later sanded it down for a more pronounced brushed finish and to rid of the logos, and just recently did the torching. After a thorough cleaning i tested to the drop again and it's up to a .9.

Have you heard of this happening?

 

[MrPlink]

Just some food for thought have you used a clear cap before?

Once you take a hit you wont see anything on the inside. It gets completely fogged up then covered in condensation.

 

[Blackboar]

There are copper TOBH clones that I've seen, but I have not seen a copper authentic. I'm actually curious about it myself, though I'm not as crazy about the TOBH atty.

For me, I torched the cap of my Omega clone with a pencil torch. It came out nicely. I also torched the drip tip, but I couldn't match the finish perfectly. I may go back and torch the drip tip some more later. Here's a pic with my copper 4nine mod.

 

[Crow2]

Just some food for thought have you used a clear cap before?

Once you take a hit you wont see anything on the inside. It gets completely fogged up then covered in condensation.

Yeah I have one for my SS Tobh on my Nemesis. I'm only concerned about the region with the o-rings that the cap covers, because it remains see through.
I think I'm just going to pick up a copper Tobh and torch the base to get it to match the copper at least more than the SS would.
Thank you though, I do appreciate the warning.

 

[Blackboar]

I was actually afraid to torch the base because it would melt the insulator. That's why I only did the topcap and drip tip.

 

[Crow2]

Hm maybe the Tobh comes apart?
I'll take a look later today.

 

[State O' Flux]

Although there are plenty of copper caps and posts, it's not too likely you'll find a copper deck RDA. I'd imagine there are health concerns.

Looks like I spoke too soon...

While wondering through FT today, I spy this - an ALL copper Stillare - including the deck. So, apparently... health concerns aren't too much a concern after all. ;-)

Edit: The FT forum discussions on this are pretty entertaining.