Really mad, and confused. PLEASE HELP!

[Baditude]

Not sure of this is true, correct me if I'm wrong but I heard its best to run 18650 battery with low/sub ohm set up. But with that aside, I've had a similar problem. I was running a .7 ohm single coil on my nimbus and king mod and all of a sudden it stopped. I kept firing but nothing. Turns out I had a short. I adjusted the coils a little and it worked again. Hope this helps.

This is what I was thinking.

Battery is apparently charged enough to fire. A digital multimeter could have confirmed this.

An 18500 IMR battery will have 8.8 amps continuous discharge rate. A 0.7 ohm coil will pull 6 amps from the battery. However, you don't have a digital multimeter to confirm the ohms of the coil. coils can change their resistance for various reasons. Just a change from 0.7 to 0.5 changes the amp draw from 6 amps to 8.4 amps, which is essentually its limit. If the battery is not at full charge from using it after a period of time, it may have trouble powering the coil.

You really need to get a digital multimeter before you purchase more batteries.

 

[Cloud boy]

And I forgot to mention this, if you plan on going down to like .2 or .3 ohms, get 18650 with 1600 mAh, it is the best option and will not heat up as fast as the 18650 2000mAh ones. But like Baditude stated, get a multimeter before you do anything else.

 

[Ryedan]

And I forgot to mention this, if you plan on going down to like .2 or .3 ohms, get 18650 with 1600 mAh, it is the best option and will not heat up as fast as the 18650 2000mAh ones.

At 0.2 ohms you're drawing just below 20A. Not all IMR 1500 to 1600 mAh go high enough for this application. The MNKE 1600 is 20A, AW 1600 is 24A and the Sony US18650VTC3 1600 is 30A. I would only feel safe with the Sony.

 

[D. Waterhouse]

Was this a single coil or a dual?

 

[TheSRV]

Hey everyone! It was the charger Sorry to everyone who was explaining everything to me, the plus side is, I know the tools I need and a little more about how this stuff works. Thanks everybody!

 

[State O' Flux]

Hey everyone! It was the charger Sorry to everyone who was explaining everything to me, the plus side is, I know the tools I need and a little more about how this stuff works. Thanks everybody!

And another "plan" comes together. ;-)

Happy to see you're moving towards knowledge and understanding. One of us, one of us, oneofus oneofu oneof... one.

 

[SuperLamer]

I have the KTS+ and experienced same issue. I have read a lot here about this. It is a known issue that is common to this and similar models that have a flat switch rod pressing to a round battery post. You may have to clean the negative battery post and switch rod. I have to do this every few days. Non fire and hot button are symptoms of this issue I have read about on this forum.

Rotating the switch in its housing sometimes works, and if it does, that's the issue for sure. Rotating the switch presents fresh, unoxidized surface to the battery post. I tested this by taking the battery out and then pressing the switch firmly and grinding it a bit to determine exactly where the switch rod was touching the battery post (below the spring). Upon removing the battery cap I observed a tiny spot that was shinier than the rest. This is the contact point. I sanded that down with 320 grit paper. People on the forum say they sand the "chrome down to brass" but I don't see brass, I see steel.

It's a design flaw, IMHO. I sanded the battery post just flat enough to increase the surface area in contact with the switch rod to be a line rather than a dot (when tested by gentle grinding). This is an improvement. I have some contact enhancer called DeOxit Gold I think will help. I do not think that the non-conductive Noalox product will help. A conductive silver compound might help but is expensive. I will try this if the DeOxit doesn't hold up.

Hope this helps.

 

[State O' Flux]

A conductive silver compound might help but is expensive. I will try this if the DeOxit doesn't hold up.

Speaking of conductive silver compound... here's a source for that.

Reminded of the old Brylcreem ads - "A Little Dab'll Do Ya" ;-)

 

[SuperLamer]

Speaking of conductive silver compound... here's a source for that.

Reminded of the old Brylcreem ads - "A Little Dab'll Do Ya" ;-)

Awesome. Have you tried on mod threads?

 

[SuperLamer]

I put together a how-to for the KTS+ switch contact cleaning advice I have found on ECF. Hope this helps

 

[State O' Flux]

Awesome. Have you tried on mod threads?

No... it's a very heavy metallic grease compound. I prefer to use it where it does the most good, on contacts - and us Ox-Gard on threads.

 

[Ryedan]

I put together a how-to for the KTS+ switch contact cleaning advice I have found on ECF. Hope this helps

Great job SuperLamer. Love the pics!

 

[State O' Flux]

Good guide S-Lamer. I don't have a KTS... but one has to wonder why it's designed with such tiny contact surfaces, and why a larger and/or flatter contact surface wasn't part of the design, or why one couldn't mod it themselves.

If the button shaft doesn't rotate, why couldn't one file a matching half-moon into the shaft to match the cap shaft radius... or, if the cap shaft is fixed, why one couldn't create or attach a "flat" for the button shaft to make contact with.

Just wonderin' outloud. ;-)

 

[Ryedan]

I have a KTS State O' Flux. Vaping a AGA-T on it right now. The button shaft does rotate. The cap shaft is fixed, but it rotates with the cap when you screw it on so a flat on that would be tough. I've never found it to be a problem. I don't use it as much as the K100, but I've had it for months and checked it tonight. There was no oxidation visible. I did however Ox-Gard it when i got it.

Is there more contact surface on other side button designs?

 

[State O' Flux]

I have a KTS State O' Flux. Vaping a AGA-T on it right now. The button shaft does rotate. The cap shaft is fixed, but it rotates with the cap when you screw it on so a flat on that would be tough. I've never found it to be a problem. I don't use it as much as the K100, but I've had it for months and checked it tonight. There was no oxidation visible. I did however Ox-Gard it when i got it.

Is there more contact surface on other side button designs?

To be honest, I don't know. I don't own any side button mechs, although I wouldn't mind having a Roller, 69 or Poldiac.
It just seems, considering the relatively large, flat contact surface on a typical bottom button, that a side button design like the KTS would have some serious issues as resistance is reduced.

I guess... I would need to see in person, alternate or other designs that have minimal voltage drop with a 1 ohm atty. Looking at jkuro's testing, it appears that the Roller, Poldiac and 69 mechs all do fairly well... the Sigelei 20 (Roller clone) on the other hand, is terrible.

Ah well... at this point, it all pretty much academic for me.

 

[SuperLamer]

I have a KTS State O' Flux. Vaping a AGA-T on it right now. The button shaft does rotate. The cap shaft is fixed, but it rotates with the cap when you screw it on so a flat on that would be tough. I've never found it to be a problem. I don't use it as much as the K100, but I've had it for months and checked it tonight. There was no oxidation visible. I did however Ox-Gard it when i got it.

Is there more contact surface on other side button designs?

DeOxit Gold has solved this issue for me. I go through both an 18500 and an 18350 in one day of vaping and no problems since the DeOxit.

I agree with Ryedan. Apply Ox-Guard or DeOxit to increase performance. Ox-guard conducts electricity, DeOxit does not. I think the conductive compound effectively increases the surface area of the switch contact, and the DeOxit makes the existing contact area more efficient. Either way, it seems the problem is solved!

 

[Dusif]

So I got my KTS mod today, I am using an IGO-W RBA at .7ohms. The battery I have in it is an IMR18500 3.7v Li-Mn, 1100mah.

Everything was going great, vaping away, then all of a sudden...Battery dies, I put it on the charger, it has the green light indicating a full charge so I put it back in my KTS, and it will not fire AT ALL. Is my battery finished for good? Did I do something wrong? Can it be fixed? and what battery would you recommend for me to replace this one? I am missing a piece on the KTS so I can only fit up to an 18500.

Please help!

Had the same problem with a variation... Check the soldering of the little spring in the buttom... It can fall off or just get loose... And for gods sake tighten your switch before it locks and you cant unlock it... Thats the two main problems with the kts mod


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SissySpike]

After reading threw this thread I see a number of issues with the OP please do some research have the proper equipment and quality bats and chargers you jumped in to something with out much of a clue as to what you were doing. RTD Vapor AW Batteries this is a trusted battery supplier.