Rebuildable experience

[John Lever]

So, I've been trying to build my own coils on an rda for a month or so. Been as low as .5 on a dual coil setup, but nothing is imminently satisfying. I found that the dripper puts out no more vapor than a nautilus, although the taste is far better. I'm okay with that, not a cloud chaser.

The current build is perhaps the best, 1.6 ohms of 28 gauge Kanthal on a 2.4mm wrap, Rayon wicking. Any constructive comments appreciated.

Ps. Running 20w on a Sig 30.

 

[Norrin]

If you aren't getting the vapour you probably don't have enough airflow. What RDA are you using. Not that I think vapour is that important but I find the flavour comes out more too if you can get some decent amounts.

 

[John Lever]

Using an Atty and a Tugboat (clones).

 

[VHRB2014]

I would suggest you try a RDA that has full air flow control (AFC), so you can see how it affects the vape, density, warmth, ect. Its makes it allot easier to live with a coil that may not be optimal while you are learning what you like in a coil and where you are headed with your own building and likes.

 

[John Lever]

Such as? Thanks!

 

[Smann245]

I assume the Atty is a TOBH and if it is, that thing is more for clouds than flavor. If a tank with factory coils is out clouding your rda's either the coil/wick setup is not working well or you're not pushing it hard enough. Dual coils in my TOBH with measly 28g wire is fairly weak at 30 watts. It's a joke at 20. Single coil mode doesn't work well unless the air holes on the coil-less side are blocked. Generally, rda's are hot rods. Let the air and power flow.

 

[ProjektMayhem]

I have a Tobh and it does pretty with flavor and vapor. Definitely more vapor than a clearo. It really depends on the build that you have in it. When I use my Tobh I usually run dual micro coils around 0.3 to 0.6 ohms and 24 to 26 gauge wire. That works best for me. But it takes a little more power to heat up that thicker gauge wire. IMO micro coils are the best build for the Tobh. I don't have a Tugboat so I really can't comment on that.

 

[Ryedan]

So, I've been trying to build my own coils on an RDA for a month or so. Been as low as .5 on a dual coil setup, but nothing is imminently satisfying. I found that the dripper puts out no more vapor than a Nautilus, although the taste is far better. I'm okay with that, not a cloud chaser.

The current build is perhaps the best, 1.6 ohms of 28 gauge Kanthal on a 2.4mm wrap, Rayon wicking. Any constructive comments appreciated.

Ps. Running 20w on a Sig 30.

Using an Atty and a Tugboat (clones).

I think you mean you're running a Tugboat RDA and another atty, is that correct?

With the Sigelei 30 watt, you set watts not volts, so the atty resistance does not affect the watts as long as it's in the range the mod can operate in. In other words, if you set 20 watts, you'll get 20 watts at 0.5 ohms or 1.5 ohms. However the vape will probably be quite different.

It's all about wire surface area and mass. A coil at a given resistance will have more surface area and mass if you use thicker and longer wire than if you use thinner and shorter wire. When the surface area becomes too big you lose the ability to heat the coil hot enough when it's wet and vapor and flavor go down, so you need more power to make that work well. Less surface area does not tolerate high power as well and will burn juice at lower watts. More mass and the coil takes longer to heat up.

I use the Steam Engine coil design calculator when I want to make a new setup. I modeled your 1.6 ohm, 28 gauge single coil setup at 20 watts and got this. Look at the box on the right where it says 'Heat flux' and I entered 20 watts. From experience, I know 222 mW/mm² is too low for me and my vape preferences so I would turn up the power on the mod. Going to 30 watts is not IMO going to burn juice and I suspect at 333 mW/mm² you will get a much more saturated vape with more flavor and vapor production, as long as you have enough air flow and your wick can keep up.

If you've already tried this, or if you try it now for the first time (go in steps, not all at once) let us know how it goes.

 

[john333]

If you go to vapecalc.com and plug in your numbers I think you will find using a higher ohm build will get you higher volts. I suggest you get a mechanical mod for you subohm builds. At .5 ohms on a mechanical you'll get tons of vapor and flavor. Good luck

 

[Ryedan]

I suggest you get a mechanical mod for you subohm builds. At .5 ohms on a mechanical you'll get tons of vapor and flavor. Good luck

Why go to a mech mod? He's got 30 watts of continuous power available (no matter what voltage the battery is at) in a range of resistances. His mod has short protection and will shut down before the battery get's too discharged.

Besides, 0.5 ohms on a mech mod with a fully charged battery will not quite reach 30 watts after voltage drop is taken into account and 30 watts is enough to get tons of vapor and flavor

 

[Smann245]

Unfortunately, some mech minded people still don't get it. There's two power variables. R and E. Not just R.

 

[John Lever]

I think you mean you're running a Tugboat RDA and another atty, is that correct?


If you've already tried this, or if you try it now for the first time (go in steps, not all at once) let us know how it goes.

Running the Tugboat now, up to 25w. Generating plenty of heat but not a lot more vapor. Burning juice as well. I suspect it's the wicking, but not sure what to do differently. Here's the setup.

 

[readeuler]

It's hard to tell from the pic, but:

1) That's a lot of wick. With rayon, you just need a bit to lay on the deck, and that'll be plenty to get juice to the coil. Too much wick may restrict airflow, which would limit the vapor you're exhaling.

2) it looks like the coil is pretty close to the deck. Personally, I make sure that mine is directly in front of, or slightly higher than, an airhole. This helps keep things cooler, more mild, and gets you more vapor, in my experience.

It's kind of a pain to make sure the coil is high enough with a tugboat (you have to compare its height with the holes on the topcap/sidewalls, since they're one piece) but I bet it would help, if it is low.

 

[John Lever]

Raising the coil did seem to help. Thank you.

I use a lot of wick to keep the juice from leaking out. No good?

 

[readeuler]

Raising the coil did seem to help. Thank you.

I use a lot of wick to keep the juice from leaking out. No good?

Well, in that respect, it probably will help prevent leaks. But the next time you rebuild, just try it with only a few mm of each tail sitting on the deck. It's still about airflow for me: the more air can move freely without running into wick, the more vapor you'll get, and the more mild it will be, the cooler things get, etc. it's a trade off. You may even find that it doesn't leak anymore than it does now. I try to keep drippers pretty upright, when they're filled.

It's not the best pic in the world, but it's gives you the idea. Just a little bit from each tail is on the deck.

 

[Subdivisions]

I agree with readeuler as far as the amount of wick. I've seen many pictures just like this and the solution is always less wick and let the deck supply the juice. That much wick and juice can rob the coil of heat also.

 

[Ryedan]

Well, in that respect, it probably will help prevent leaks. But the next time you rebuild, just try it with only a few mm of each tail sitting on the deck. It's still about airflow for me: the more air can move freely without running into wick, the more vapor you'll get, and the more mild it will be, the cooler things get, etc. it's a trade off. You may even find that it doesn't leak anymore than it does now. I try to keep drippers pretty upright, when they're filled.

It's not the best pic in the world, but it's gives you the idea. Just a little bit from each tail is on the deck.

Very good advice readeuler

Coils high to get them in front of the air holes and out from the center to get them close to the air holes. If they touch the cap they will short through the cap, so not too close.

Also, rayon needs to be fairly tight in the coils, the opposite of cotton. The test I use is that it squeaks just a bit when I slide it slightly in the coil. If you put in too little, it will compress a bit when wet and some of the coil will loose contact with it and that will burn juice. If you get too much in there it will just take a long time to lose the rayon flavor shift, say 20-30 drags, but it will still work.

Last thing is to put the cap on with the holes aligned on the coils.

 

[Wolfenstark]

My building is a lot stronger than my nautilus was - need to tone the juices down or do for less.