Rebuilding a Kanger Protank/T3

[Etrogann]

So I have bought some 32ga Kanthal. I have a couple different options for wicking material (~2mil Hemp, 2mil cotton and .6mil Silica.) And I have a digital multimeter. I was going to try my hand at rebuilding my Kanger t3 and Kanger Protank heads, but hold on says the guy at my local vape store, you really should get a mechanical mod to test for hotspots, you may blow up your kgo VV.
So I get on here and start looking around, and I see people testing for hotspots on all sorts of batteries. So now I ask, should I really be that worried?

Also, what resistance should I shoot for? I know I can't really go sub ohm with my VV, but could I get down to 1.5 Ohm and have it work better? I am wanting to test some things out, but I really need a little clarification on how far I can push this thing safely. And I tend to get information overload while surfing the forums (going to have to start writing down my questions and taking notes I guess.)

Anyway, thanks in advance for the help, you guys always come through!

 

[Renzuli]

Welcome , but the mechanical device is the smart way to go . Testing a new coil on an electronic device , is asking for trouble . I did it for awhile , until a dead short , burned out the electronics in my PV. And mechanical mods are fairly cheap . Now I only use mechanicals for my RBA's and RDA's .

 

[Etrogann]

OK, so one more against. That is enough for me.

So, with me wanting to save some money (always) would something like Puck's NiMH batery mod work instead of a true mechanical mod? From everything I can read it puts out a fairly steady 4.8Volts.

 

[LazyBulldogge]

Wouldn't shorting out only be an issue, if the mod you test it on, doesn't have short circuit protection?

 

[Eric1217]

I use my vv all the time in rebuilding but after i check for shorts and i know the resistance is aat least 1.3 ohms. Having said that I use mainly provari for testing and start at around 3 volts and work my way up, that would help in avoiding buring out the kanthal, i never tried it with the Kgo, I did with the vamo and evic but the ohms must be more than 1.5 for this mods to work.

And as LazyDog point out most vv mods today have protection build into it but please do check for shorts before mounting you build on a vv mod or ant kind of mod vv or mechanical for that matter.

 

[LazyBulldogge]

Yeah I always check for shorts with a multimeter first, but things can still happen when you start using the coil, so it's nice with the double safety

 

[Red_Bird]

Just buy an inexpensive mech mod. You can get them as cheap as $17

This was my first mech mod:

Mountain Vaporizer 18650 Battery Tube

 

[Dakota Jim]

Going back to the original question - Here are some good videos - I use the machine screw method (vaping with Dave) and have never had an issue - I use a 3-48 screw though and 5 wraps of 32 Kanthal gives me 2 ohms +-.1 - 6 wraps = 2.3 +- .1 - have not seen a hot spot yet due to the coils are all evenly spaced - works with Protank, Evod, and vivi nova. I use a small piece of the kanthal to thread the wicks through the coil (or in the case of the 2mm I carefully "screw" the wick through the coil as you can not double it over - need patience)

Machine screw coil wrap for Vivi Nova / Kanger T3 - YouTube

or if you have good eyesight (I don't, my nose is not long enough for my glasses anymore and I keep hitting myself in the face trying to freehand wrap the wire around the wick ) you can try Pbusardo's way - the recoiling part is about the last 8-10 minutes of the video (this is very similar to his vivi rebuild video but is evod/protank specific)

A PBusardo Review All About The EVOD - Includes Recoiling - YouTube

hope this helps

ps - I started recoiling with just an ego battery and a multimeter (remember to see how much resistance your meter leads have 1st and subtract that from the reading you get when it is assembled - mine are .3 ohm) and have never had an issue using the machine screw method

 

[Etrogann]

Just buy an inexpensive mech mod. You can get them as cheap as $17

This was my first mech mod:

Mountain Vaporizer 18650 Battery Tube

I might get that, but why spend even 17 bucks when I can spend less than $5 on new parts and build from the electronics I currently have. I am DIY minded anyway and would love to show off something I made myself.

Going back to the original question - Here are some good videos - I use the machine screw method (vaping with Dave) and have never had an issue - I use a 3-48 screw though and 5 wraps of 32 Kanthal gives me 2 ohms +-.1 - 6 wraps = 2.3 +- .1 - have not seen a hot spot yet due to the coils are all evenly spaced - works with Protank, Evod, and vivi nova. I use a small piece of the kanthal to thread the wicks through the coil (or in the case of the 2mm I carefully "screw" the wick through the coil as you can not double it over - need patience)

Machine screw coil wrap for Vivi Nova / Kanger T3 - YouTube

or if you have good eyesight (I don't, my nose is not long enough for my glasses anymore and I keep hitting myself in the face trying to freehand wrap the wire around the wick ) you can try Pbusardo's way - the recoiling part is about the last 8-10 minutes of the video (this is very similar to his vivi rebuild video but is evod/protank specific)

A PBusardo Review All About The EVOD - Includes Recoiling - YouTube

hope this helps

ps - I started recoiling with just an ego battery and a multimeter (remember to see how much resistance your meter leads have 1st and subtract that from the reading you get when it is assembled - mine are .3 ohm) and have never had an issue using the machine screw method

Thanks for the links!, I saw pBusardo's video but not the other one. I have to work a long weekend, but I think that Monday I will be getting started with buidling both my first coil and my first NiMH mod!

 

[Rejectcase]

got mine going on at 1.0/1.1ohm with 30guage kanthal 5/4 wrap on my protank, but im using a mechanical mod, nice hot vape with a constantly fed wick. (2mm wick btw)

 

[sonicdsl]

Moved to Clearomizers from New Members

 

[sawtoothscream]

I rebuild my protanks and just use my ego twiste and non VV. no issues for me. ... far has wicks go. my favorite set up right now is a 2.5ohm coil (5 wraps of 32 if I remember correctly) with a 400 SS mess wick. I run it at 9-10watts and it vapes like crazy even with my 70pg 30 vg juice. tastes awesome as well.

im going to grab a mech soon and will experiment more with uses the protank on them, mostly plan on dripping with it. going to grab some 30ga kanthal and 28ga. i know 10 wraps of 28 on the protank is 1.3ohms (if you make a micro coil using a 1/16 drill bit to wrap) but I had bad results with that thing. I think if I play around enough I could get the Protank to work good on the mech

if im doing the math right i would need to make a good 1.2ohm coil to get close to the watts im vaping at now with the 2.5ohm set up.

 

[kotobide]

When recoiling what makes the wire only fire where its coiled up and not all along the whole wire like for example the leades that go though the grommet ?