Rebuilding the iClear 30 Dual Coil Atomizer

[tomwaits]

I don't want to sound harsh or racist but rebuilding the iClear 30 is like doing Chinese Algebra on an abacus. Here is what I have done so far: Yes there are two coils but one popped out like a bullet from a gun. I have yet to find it. I think the cat has found a new toy?

 

[tomwaits]

I started wrapping my coil using a needle as a temporary spine to hold it straight. I 'think' you can wrap tighter with the needle because when you pull it out from the wick tension is released as the needle occupies volume inside the wick. I wrap these tight and small.

 

[tomwaits]

More pictures. Let me explain my best.

 

[tomwaits]

Two coils wound from 32 gauge Kanthal, temperature teated via torch. Approximately six turns each. Wrapped over Ekowool 2mm. The two coils are in parallel and staggered for position in the iClear center post. I measured by look and feel, I do not have dimensions if you want them. Perhaps at another time?

 

[tomwaits]

I 'played' with the parallel leads to select my positive and my negative leads. I played with 'it' to find the most natural position for the pair of coils to run a positive lead 'isolated' and a negative wire set to run against the metal conductive body of the hardware. I inserted a silicone type grommet and pushed it up the inside of the center post with my 'selected' positive wire set in the center hole of my grommet and the 'negative' wire set on the outside of the grommet forcing them to be in electrical contact with the metal outer structure of the piece. The selected positive wire set remain isolated and floating away from the exterior body by staying centered-ish inside the gromment. I selected this grommet from waste parts collecting in my 'dead' devices box.

In a true iClear, you will see from the original post the heating/atomizing wire is terminated after the coil and then soldered to a thicker wire used to carry current to the coil but not heat up like the coil should do. The heavier conductor from the contact points of the 'e-go' threaded 510 connector prevent them from turning into hot-spots or heater wires themselves. I over came this buy maintaining my parallel wire set from the two coils all the way to the contact points where the wires exit the 'tank' itself. Whew! Did I just write that?

 

[tomwaits]

Well, I'm classified as a new here so perhaps I can continue this demonstration later? I've reached some kind of limit so I see no point talking with out pictures for proof. I 'll try again tomorrow evening if work does not drain me.

Cheers!

 

[BigBen2k]

Nice work; definitely something to be proud of.

One thing; did you notice the different gauges on the original coil? i.e. the "lead" wires are bigger than the coil wire.

 

[tomwaits]

did you notice the different gauges on the original coil? i.e. the "lead" wires are bigger than the coil wire.

Of course! I think I mentioned it up a post or two?
Thanks BTW!

 

[tomwaits]

More so. I explain a method to achieve this in a different manner. Read it again my friend.

 

[BigBen2k]

More so. I explain a method to achieve this in a different manner. Read it again my friend.

I must have been captivated with the pretty pictures

They're spot welded, not soldered. You can put together your own spot welder using a transfo from an old microwave. If you're so inclined.

 

[tomwaits]

Hmmn... you like my pretty pictures! I gave my camera to friends visiting Argentina, THESE pics are painstakingly done on a Blackberry cell phone. Sorry BigBen, I say 'soldered' for the common man. I know the technique in these cases is not flux, wire, tin and lead. My background is electronics. I will not, in the foreseeable future, be utilizing a transformer from a spent microwave oven so to build my own electrical wire 'spot welder' but thanks for the tip. You are a true mad-man if you indulge in these activities. I admire this but my tool-set is limited at the present. I WILL research this welding/microwave transformer method in my spare time. Anything else regarding iClear 30 that is not completely off topic?

Cheers!

 

[epav67]

Hello Mr Waits. Thanks for posting this info, and I look forward to the rest of the rebuild. I just received my first two iclear30's today. One intermittently shorts out somehow, so I'm hoping that I can rebuild it. Just can't see how to get it apart yet. Ta!

 

[tomwaits]

Hello Mr Waits. Thanks for posting this info, and I look forward to the rest of the rebuild. I'm hoping that I can rebuild it. Just can't see how to get it apart yet. Ta!

Well, I did get close but the labor involved is not paying off. I can, have and do build double coils in series and parallel for my Optimus RDA, AGA-T2 and my Mini IGO-L but this thing...no go. Setting the leads at the end of the center post to maintain the positive connection and the negative connection is tedious. I got it set up but when screwing the rebuilt iClear 30 back together again, the wires spin out and end up as an open or short. I am very confident I could get the iClear rebuilt but the hours involved make no sense. I tried to do it knowing I'd waste time but where I'm at with it makes no sense to carry on. 'IF' I tried again, I would use some small runs of high temperature insulation to keep the positive and negative wires from making contact. In the end, of course you can rebuild this tank but is it worth it? The replacement coils and wicks are priced fairly.

Also note, it would be a lot easier to rebuild as a single coil but then it would not be an iClear 30, would it?

I will drop the dual coil set up on my IGO-L which is a no brainer.

Well folks I gave it half a shot. Who's going to waste 10 hours of labor and parts and actually get it done?

Cheers! I'll try to bring something new again to the forum when I start another thread.

 

[mgmrick]

I gave some thought to rebuilding these but like you... yeh it can be done but way too much work and time involved.

Now bottom coil kangers.... that is a piece a cake and do rebuild them