Regulated mod for Nautilus Mini?

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zonova

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Jun 7, 2015
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Hey everyone! I've been searching through the forums recently, as well as all over the internet, trying to figure out how to get started in mods. I'm using an eGo starter kit right now. I'm wanting to move up into using mods, however I don't think I'm ready to get into making my own coils. For that reason, I was planning on using the nautilus Mini. I really like mechanical mods, however I have heard that the Nautilus will perform the best with a regulated mod, so that the voltage is constant. Unfortunately for me, it looks like most of the regulated mods are box mods for some reason, but I really only like the look of cylindrical mods.

Wanting to stay on as tight a budget as I can manage, this leaves me only a few options. There is, of course, the Vamo, or the SVD(though the latter is a bit pricier). There is also the battery from aspire called the Aspire CF VV, though I don't think that's really considered a mod. Then of course, I could just use standard eGo batteries. So, here's where my questions come in. The Vamo is really perfect for what I need, except for one thing: its center pin. The center pin on the Vamo is pretty well known for getting messed up after use, usually from tightening too much. The center pin issue is something they fix on the Aspire CF battery by using a center pin with a spring.

Honestly, I want a mod that I can use for RBAs later on, which I couldn't do as well with the Aspire battery as I could with the Vamo. Do you know of any cylindrical mods that are cheap and don't have the center pin issue?(aka, they have a spring assisted center pin)
Also, do you think there would be a difference in the quality of the vapor production between the vamo and the aspire CF battery(which is basically a nicer eGo battery) while using the Aspire Nautilus mini?

I still wish I could just go straight with a mech mod, but I do understand why having a constant voltage would make for a better-for-longer vape with the Nautilus.

Thanks everyone!
 

djsvapour

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Oct 2, 2012
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I have a Vamo V5. It's perfect in every respect except it won't accept the 1.2ohm subtank OCCs. It goes up to 6v, on paper.
The CF is a variable power battery that offers 3.3v to 4.8v.
If we are specifically discussing mini Nautilus and the BVC coils, then the two are not quite equal. They are close but the max setting on the CF VV is effectively 12.8 watts. In the real world, unless the Aspire CF VV is a very impressive bit of tech, then it will be similar to the old "twist/spinner" batteries, and they could never get to the theoretical power output based on the volts on the dial. In other words, a good 18650 mod reading 4.8v would outperform at VV eGo battery in most cases. There are exceptions, of course.
I hope that makes sense.
 
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Sir2fyablyNutz

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I'd recommend the iStick 30 watt. As stated above it's not round but it's so small I feel you'll love it. It's very user friendly and pairs with the Nautilus excellently.

Another option that looks really nice is the Kanger Subbox. Though it does have the ability to go sub ohms, it is coming with stock 1.5 ohm coils (Nautilus has 1.6 and 1.8) and you can purchase the 1.5 factory OCC (organic cotton coils) that replace as easily as the Nautilus. The Nautilus would also work on this 50W mod. It is highly recommended to get quality batteries (around 7 to 10 each) and a separate quality battery charger (10 to 20).

Subox Mini Starter Kit by Kanger - Black/Red - Origin Vape

BATTERIES
1. Orbtronic SX30 2100mah 30A
2. Sony VTC4 2100mah 30A (there are no authentic VTC5's out there)
3. Xtar 2100mah 30A (re-wrapped Sony VTC4)

1. AW 1600mah 24A
2. Orbtronic SX22 2000mah 22A
3. LG HE2/HE4 2500mah 20A
4. Samsung 25R 2500mah 20A
5. AW 2200mah 20A (new)

Illumn.com - Flashlights, Batteries, Carry Gear, Intelligent LED Lighting, and More!
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You can read about this on Baditudes blogs, the ECF battery guru: Baditudes Blogs Baditude's blog | E-Cigarette Forum

I would advise a trip to the local vape store to look at the different models. Good luck in your decisions.
 

Filfa

Full Member
May 20, 2015
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I'm not familiar with many cylindrical regulated mods. I use my mech for when I want/need a smaller form factor.
However I would recommend the iSticks, I used my iStick 50w with 2.2ohm Protank 2 all the way to 0.2 Clapton coils in my doge. Awesome value for money on any of them however the 20w and 30w won't do subohm (if that interests you)
You may find some of the "box mods" are actually easier to handle than the tube mods like the vamo

As said above though, a used Provari would suit your needs well (or a new one if you have the $$ ^__^) and the p3 now supports down to 0.5 ohms for down the road if you wish to go in that direction
 

zonova

Full Member
Jun 7, 2015
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Thanks everyone! Your responses have been super helpful. I was reading that the iStick doesn't have a spring loaded center pin. Have you guys ever had any problems with that, the same way that an eGo's center pin might have trouble?

Also, one other question. When I'm doing research on mech mods, a lot of the emphasis is on using RBAs. What is the tank scene like for mech mods, do most people just use drippers? Dripping always seems like a bit of a hassle to me, if I were to get a mech mod, I think I would definitely want something with a tank, I'm just having some trouble for some reason with finding the most popular tanks. Any advice?
 

dbrandt01

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I have a friend, she uses a nautilus mini on her iStick 30w and absolutely loves the setup. 30w is ok for an RDA depending on the ohms you build it. Where didn't you read the iStick didn't have a spring connector? On eleaf's site, it says they have a spring connector. I use a subtank mini, and I like tanks only if I'll be in the car driving a lot. For home and every other time, I like my Reo for squonking or my hexohm for dripping. It's hard to beat flavor from an RDA compared to a tank. I really want the Silo Beast from Beyondvape though for a tank

".Spring Connector and Stainless Steel Thread: Newly introduced spring connector insures high adaptability and durability. The connecting thread is made of stainless steel which makes it more hard-wearing." iStick 30W
 

edyle

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Oct 23, 2013
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Port-of-Spain, Trinidad & Tobago
Hey everyone! I've been searching through the forums recently, as well as all over the internet, trying to figure out how to get started in mods. I'm using an eGo starter kit right now. I'm wanting to move up into using mods, however I don't think I'm ready to get into making my own coils. For that reason, I was planning on using the Nautilus Mini. I really like mechanical mods, however I have heard that the Nautilus will perform the best with a regulated mod, so that the voltage is constant. Unfortunately for me, it looks like most of the regulated mods are box mods for some reason, but I really only like the look of cylindrical mods.

Wanting to stay on as tight a budget as I can manage, this leaves me only a few options. There is, of course, the Vamo, or the SVD(though the latter is a bit pricier). There is also the battery from aspire called the Aspire CF VV, though I don't think that's really considered a mod. Then of course, I could just use standard eGo batteries. So, here's where my questions come in. The Vamo is really perfect for what I need, except for one thing: its center pin. The center pin on the Vamo is pretty well known for getting messed up after use, usually from tightening too much. The center pin issue is something they fix on the Aspire CF battery by using a center pin with a spring.

Honestly, I want a mod that I can use for RBAs later on, which I couldn't do as well with the Aspire battery as I could with the Vamo. Do you know of any cylindrical mods that are cheap and don't have the center pin issue?(aka, they have a spring assisted center pin)
Also, do you think there would be a difference in the quality of the vapor production between the vamo and the aspire CF battery(which is basically a nicer eGo battery) while using the Aspire Nautilus mini?

I still wish I could just go straight with a mech mod, but I do understand why having a constant voltage would make for a better-for-longer vape with the Nautilus.

Thanks everyone!

use a mech mod with a kick.
the only mod I have with a spring loaded centerpin is an m16 sentinel; but it is too small to take both a kick and an 18650 ; but I can put two of them together to do that.

More commonplace are the floating or adjustable centerpin mods; I like the astro telescopic, but a more popular one would be the chi you- same threads for both of them m21x1, same as vamo.
 

zonova

Full Member
Jun 7, 2015
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I'm feeling pretty good about just going for an iStick 50w, partly because that would leave me open in the future if I wanted to do subohm builds, and also because it looks a bit less likely to fall over compared to the 30w.

I'm wondering, with all these regulated mods with high watts, what is the point of using a mech mod at all? I still think mech mods tend to look nicer, but is form the only reason?

Also, how well do the iSticks last, in your experience? Perhaps compared to the (similar?) iTaste MVP 3? Thanks!
 

Maiar

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Oct 29, 2014
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My 20w istick doesn't fall over... but I wouldn't get that one, so I second the 30 or 50w versions. My 20w one I got from my buddy a month ago, and it survived 6 months of him abusing it and it still works great. He's the outdoorsy type and didn't take very good care of his stuff. I can only imagine the 30 and 50 versions would last quite awhile as well. Especially if you take care of it.
 

zonova

Full Member
Jun 7, 2015
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Sorry to bring back this thread, I just had another question that was related! I'm thinking about going with either iStick 30w or maybe the Subox, because the batteries are changeable so I thought that might be better(though I don't believe it has been released yet?). Anyways, I was wondering, how many of you drip? And if you do, what is the point of dripping to you, when it seems that using a tank would be easier? If you were to recommend dripping to a beginner, what would your reasoning be?

Also, would anyone know how well the Sigelei 30w works?
 
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Markill

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ECF Veteran
Aug 24, 2014
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Connecticut
i stick 20w is also an option. Slightly cheaper, and the extra 10w is kinda unnecessary for running a nautilus. it'd burn easily above 20w. BUt if you're considering dripping, i'd say go with the 30w. I also recommend the 50w, I own it and have had only 1 issue, which was resolved by just plugging it in to charge. Almost every 50w out there now is the newer version, so many of the kinks have been worked out. Dripping is just amazing. Once you get the hang of building your own coils, the flavor is phenomenal. There's more vapor produced. You can change the way it performs easily, as opposed to being stuck with how a tank works. I just love dripping
 

Bitter Jeweler

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Jun 1, 2015
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Hi Zonova,

I was kinda in your shoes, having eGo Spinners, and Nautilus Minis.
I didn't think I'd ever go sub ohm, nor building coils and wicking.
I also thought I preferred round stick batteries.

I just got the Subox Mini, and I am over the moon with it.
I've already used the rebuildable deck and successfully wicked it.
It comes with pre wrapped coils. You can buy pre coiled wire as well.

Anyway, I love the box, and it's quite nice with the Nautilus minis. It lets you up the watts to get higher volts which really brought out the flavor of some of my juices. I also like the .5 ohm coils in the subtank.

I will warn you, if you go the sub ohm route, lower your nicotine from what you used in the nautilus minis. I went from 12mg, to 3mg.

Hope that helps!
 

zonova

Full Member
Jun 7, 2015
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Oh awesome, thanks guys! Does an Aspire Nautilus really not compare to the Kanger subtanks that come with the subox? Is one better than the other in flavor? I had thought that the Nautilus was the best you could do with a tank for flavor.

Also, what is the deal with the subox vs the kbox? Why don't they sell the subox separately as just a mod? Because it doesn't look to be the same as the kbox(it has a screen on it), but the kbox is he only one they have listed under their "mod" section.
 
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