Remind me why we use Brass instead of copper or silver plated copper?

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imeothanasis

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as river and clint said adam.

Ok, time to say some more things about this issue, because I see that some people are confused with all this info around.

Plating wears off and that means that your connection in a while will be much worse even than a stainless steel connection. So you will have to buy new connections. GG line doesnt work like this, you must use it for ever without problems.

As for the connections, I have to say that this story has to stop. I cant see people get screwed because someone told them that the metal they use is crucial for the vaping. I agree that SS is not suitable but brass and silver have a difference at 0,1 volts on vaping and that means that the vaper with silver contacts will vape 5-10 mins more than a vaper with brass contacts, because brass will vape for example well until battery reach 3,4 volts when silver will vape well until battery reach 3,3 volts. Not a real difference at all, especially when you will soon have problems with plated contacts.

If a modder that makes e-cigs wants to be serious on his constructions, he has to put pure silver and not plated items. And if he cant put pure silver because its too expensive, he has to put brass and thats it. Plated contacts were first made by me before 2 years and they were not good at all, so its not good for anyone to spare rumors about new metals and new plating and all this stuff around. We have to protect our customers and not say whatever comes to our mind just to attractive people to buy from us.
 

AdamAnd

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Good information but I was just inquiring I came across a metal resistance chart that's all and thought I'd ask I understand what you are saying and it makes sense Thanks Guys live and learn
as river and clint said adam.

Ok, time to say some more things about this issue, because I see that some people are confused with all this info around.

Plating wears off and that means that your connection in a while will be much worse even than a stainless steel connection. So you will have to buy new connections. GG line doesnt work like this, you must use it for ever without problems.

As for the connections, I have to say that this story has to stop. I cant see people get screwed because someone told them that the metal they use is crucial for the vaping. I agree that SS is not suitable but brass and silver have a difference at 0,1 volts on vaping and that means that the vaper with silver contacts will vape 5-10 mins more than a vaper with brass contacts, because brass will vape for example well until battery reach 3,4 volts when silver will vape well until battery reach 3,3 volts. Not a real difference at all, especially when you will soon have problems with plated contacts.

If a modder that makes e-cigs wants to be serious on his constructions, he has to put pure silver and not plated items. And if he cant put pure silver because its too expensive, he has to put brass and thats it. Plated contacts were first made by me before 2 years and they were not good at all, so its not good for anyone to spare rumors about new metals and new plating and all this stuff around. We have to protect our customers and not say whatever comes to our mind just to attractive people to buy from us.
 

Xylocaine

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GG line doesnt work like this, you must use it for ever without problems.
We have to protect our customers and not say whatever comes to our mind just to attractive people to buy from us.

The GG is not just a great device by design but also by intentions and follow through of its creator.
 

Spiralnebel

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Dec 25, 2011
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Herne @ Germany
:) As i already mentioned if the long lasting factor of the brass connections
is more important then having a device with less voltage drop as possible
i wish at least some square cutted axis' that would offer a better contact
surface for the button pin and is big enough in diameter to do not push into
the bottom of my batteries. We would not need any threads on the axis or
inside the bottom cap cause the preasure inside the tube would be high
enough so no flat side of axis would be at wrong place.

Just some things to think about and maybe give some comments to...
Why does The Kick works much better inside the GGTS/Stealth if an electrical
switch get put inside!?
Why does voltage/wattage regulating like the Zorbas do not have a
constant output but depends on how hart we push the button!?
...and why does such electronic parts work much better in mods with connections
who are made of copper or are plated with silver/gold/rhodium!=

How about constructing and offering an alternative switch system
for all the people who are not realy satisfied with that who get used
right now?
I think about a small cap to close the hole if we remove the existing
side button and removing the bottom cap with axis. There we could
put a solid bottom switch with counter clockwise locking ring and
replacable connector pins with a big surface and the ability to screw
on a smaller part who can be made of those wished materials.

In my mind such a bottom switch would be a cool new addon for the
good old GGTS ;) Think about brass locking rings and that other style
to vape GG. We could play around with diffent springs or even think
about a way not to use springs anymore - just huge solid conductive contacts!

If i hear into myself what i would prefer - To disassamble my whole mod
twice or more the month to have the same performance or ro work with
plated contacts that least just a half year for example i would prefer
to buy a couple replacement contacts. Maybe some of you love this procedure
of cleaning, polishing and so on but i just would like to have a GG setup
with low voltage drop even if i do not like to spend hours to clean before
having an enjoyable vape :)

I know bishops videos who ment to show how low the voltage drop of the
ggts is but this just works under best conditions and the time between
those cleaning sessions is too short

Ah - An other thing...
Why does people recommend Noalox for example to encrease the conectivity?

I remind back to the days i tried to clean my ggts for the first time and do not
noticed that there were those to tiiiiiny o-rings inside the ggts connector and
end up in flooded battery tubes who nearly drove me crazy cause i did not figured
out why does the hellit leaked down to the battery.
Would it not be much easier to have screwable contact surface onto the flat part
of the pin!? We would unscrew it, clean it and put it back on. On the other side
we could have such a contact system like Ithaka offers more a bit bigger so we could
screw on plated parts as well without to have fear Ithakas pin destroys to plating.
The same system on the bottom switch. Then everyone could decide and see for hisself
what works better for him. Lets see it like an experiment :)
If you do not want to offer plated contacts you could give us at least the option
to offer threads inside the ggts connector and the bottom cap who would allow
to use those silver plated contacts from atmomixani. They are cheap and work
just fine for me inside Nemesis for example.

;) And even if you would just offer solid silver contacts - In mind of my idea
of having smaller screwable contacts they would not costs as much as have
a whole silver axis for example.

And last but not least GG users know that quality have its prize and everyone
of us loves to play around with his GG toys like a small child and buy everything
new mr. imeo throw on the market, so so do not worry too much about offering
some new features that maybe do not least as long as our planet exists.

:D Give us new pizzle pieces daddy imeo or we get bored and look out for new toys
that we maybe would love even more then our GG toys just because no cool new
features get added ;) You know how i mean it bro...
There are so many nice devices out there but just a few offer such a quality and solid
build like your devices. Tahts the reason we love GG but if someone like me gets the
idea to buy a module that finaly offers wattage regulation to my loved GG and it does
not perform as good as on all my other devices with copper or platted contacts its a point
that pushes me even more away from GG cause i just enjoy it sooo much do just build
a coil and do not need to worry about if its has absolutly perfect resistance for my batteries.
Even voltage drop does not plays such a big role anymore. I found my sweetspot at 12 watts
and this tiny addon handles everything to offer a constant satisfying vape - Just brilliant :D

Just give us the possibility to find out on our own if we would end up in your button pin on axis
construction or maybe find a much nicer way to fire up our GG ;) For us as customers without
connections to guys who are able to construct any of those metall parts its just impoosible
to try out what we have jumping around in our head. As all of us know today that those ss pins
were not the best choice we or at least you can give it a try.

You always say that you try to satisfy every single vaper but in this points you do not want to
change something so in my mind just all hardcore mechanical lovers will stay on GG cause
they even seems to love cleaning there device every couple of days and just accept unregulated
vaping as their only way of vaping...

The voltage range a battery offers especially in unregulated mode where we have a satisfying vape
is even with 18650s not realy huge to every single sub ohm who get lost by having absolute
mirror polished contacts decreases this time.
Just a short calculation to this...
If we use 1.5 ohm coils and we mostly enjoy vaping at 12 watts for example we would just be able
to have this 12 watts with a fully charged battery with an output of 4.24264 volts.
if just 0.2 ohm get lost under load we would already end up at 10.66667 watts with a full charged
battery. So the only way to be able to reach 12 watts would be to build coils with less resistance.
4V @ 1.3Ω = 12.30769W, 3.9=11.7, 3.8=11.10769, 3.7=10.53077 ;) And now the vape would be
not anymore already as we love it. So as you can see in this example just the time between 4-3,7V
is left. If we would decrease the resistance even more than we would have with full charged
batteries the issue that the output would be too high. On Odysseus or Ithaka we would say that
we just open the Liquid Control a bit more and we are fine. Yes, thats true and even works so we
do not have a burned or too hot vape but the sweetspot is still at 12 watts or maybe a little bit higher
but not bellow too much. ;) So in my mind every single sub ohm who get lost anywhere means
total vape time get lost.

MAybe one day we will find a way to decrease the resistance without need to rebuild so we could
have the same constant output till we reach the critical value of our battery but since then we should
watch out to reduce the voltage drop in regular use as much as possible.

I also thought about if it would be possible to use some sort of transistor that get feeded by the
battery in the time the output is too high for the coil and releases the power again after the
battery reaches the point where it do not have enough power anymore to reach 12 watts
so some sort of extra boost that get filled at the beginning but my knowledge about electronic
parts is too less if such a construction could be build without enlarging the device too much.

Anyway...

Now who i said everything about i think about this topic i can sleep a little bit
better again and hopefully you spend at least some minutes to think about
my ideas beside those you already spend to read this huge post :)

With best wishes from Germany
Γεώργιος
 

imeothanasis

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front buttons are not efficient spiral because you cant push them in the right way and the most of the times they stuck if you dont press them in center. Also front buttons are not what people like. You just cant push it right, its not in a regular position. But its easy to be made by modders, thats why they prefere it more. Also most front buttons are GGSlim copies as you know

What do you mean that kick doesnt work ok with brass? The only I can think off is that kick cant contact well with its spring on internal sides of the mods tubes

I dont want to make my customers buy every 6 months new contacts just because they will vape like that for 10 more minutes on a mod. Its not right and there is no reason for that.

Who said that silver plated contacts doesnt need cleaning? They need cleaning and be sure that after every cleaning the surface will be worse every time you clean those contacts

Noalox doesnt do anything to my opinion

If GGTS had screwed bolt inside a plastic insulator (another GG invention that now applies to all mods), then things would be much worse because o-rings stop leakage when threads of the plastic dont. Also you will soon need plastic replacements, something that will increase your cost without a reason

I am not responsible if Ithaka destroyw plated contacts. Modders have to not plate their contacts. Also every atomizer will destroy your mod's plated contacts

If you ask me to change GGTS just to use other's pins, thats just impossible spiral. What I really suggest you is to not pay attention to those mods that have silver contacts just because you can vape 10 more minutes with them. Its just useless and expensive

I always gives you new toys spiral and I am the only modder that does that in regular base. Noone has made so many different GG in so small amount of time. But be prepared because one more new toy is coming and its the one that you will like most because it will show you how simple things are on ecig world.

You dont have any problem with GGTS switch, am I right spiral? Lets see the front button mods. Most of them are made exactly like GGTS button. Also on these mods you cant push hard the button because of its position. That means that GGTS button is always more efficient. If you have problems with your button then something else is wrong there. As for SS contacts, people asked me to make them like this when first GG contacts where brass. Now people saw what I meant in first place and thats why I made those new brass contacts. You can buy them from my sellers.

But I am making proteus right now so you will have the ability to regulate your GG spiral. And I will put proteus 's electronics on GGTS too. Maybe you missed my post about this?

I am sure that now you are totally satisfied with my answers and I wish you a nice sleep spiral:)
 
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erich

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if just 0.2 ohm get lost under load

If your meter measures 0.2Ω across the brass contact, you need a new meter. Just guessing at the size of a brass spring, but if it's 20 gauge, it would take 1.9 meters of the stuff to reach 0.2Ω. Now true, with solid silver, this would jump up to 7.58 meters, but unless your battery is on a different floor of the house, I wouldn't worry too much.

I also thought about if it would be possible to use some sort of transistor that get feeded by the
battery in the time the output is too high for the coil and releases the power again after the
battery reaches the point where it do not have enough power anymore to reach 12 watts
There is a device as you describe, which stores potential and releases it when there is a draw... it's called a battery.

Transistors don't store energy, they merely translate the voltage. P = IV (i.e. 'watts equals amps times volts'). The voltage coming from the battery "is what it is", so to speak, so regulating output is done by throttling the current. You can step the voltage down from e.g. two stacked batts totaling 7.4v, or you can step it up from 4.2, but you can't do both with the same unit. The latter is what the kick (and presumably the proteus) does. The former is common among dual battery mods using a regulator such as:

http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/ptr08100w.pdf

So as you can see in this example just the time between 4-3,7V is left.

Blatantly ripped off from another post, but an 18350 spends about 10% of its life above 4v, 83% between 4v and 3.5v, and the rest is 'dead'. I'd be willing to bet that, in a blind taste test, you couldn't tell the difference between 3.7v and 3.5v, but that's purely supposition on my part.
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