So i'm sure im not the only one whos broken their fogger v2 glass tube. Anyone know where to get a replacement tube either glass or SS just anythign to replace it so i can use it again. I contacted the sellers at alibaba to see if they were gonna release any replacement parts but i haven't gotten a response yet. Any help or suggestions would be great.
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if you can figure out the dimensions you can see if ibtanked has a custom cut to fit
I dont think they can cut like that layered kinda offset glass tube
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Thats an interesting website tho for glass tanks
Thats an interesting website tho for glass tanks
I would think that if you got the inside AND outside diameter for both portions, that a machine shop could easily replicate that out of SS. Then just add the seals and done.
By the way how did you break it?
By the way how did you break it?
Got drunk and dropped it tryna do some "hold my beer i can do that" .... lol. I've dropped it twice first time was like 3ft on its side and it didn't break. The one that broke it was probably like a 5ft drop on the drip tip. straight shattered. I was thinking of tryna get a shop to do it but there's no way for me to get the dimensions for everything unless someone who owns one wants to measure it out for me.
I have some ordered. I will provide the measurements when they come in if no one else has by then.
If someone else is willing, the measurements we would need are:
1. Outside diameter of the lower part.
2. Inside diameter of the lower part.
3. Outside diameter of the upper part.
4. Inside diameter of the upper part.
5. Length of the lower part.
6. Length of the upper part.
If someone else is willing, the measurements we would need are:
1. Outside diameter of the lower part.
2. Inside diameter of the lower part.
3. Outside diameter of the upper part.
4. Inside diameter of the upper part.
5. Length of the lower part.
6. Length of the upper part.
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seeing how thats the first time I seen it close up didnt know it was stepped just use two tubes and some silicone aquarium sealant lol
I would be concerned that just like certain juices react to plastic that they may also react to the silicone. It could cause leaking and/or silicone to get into your vapor.
Yup I was thinking of doing what he said but couldn't think of anything i would want near my juice as a sealant
hey people are using it in their protank seals so just a suggestion.
i think it will be hard to find something to replace that glass if it really is one piece it had to be cast that way.
i think it will be hard to find something to replace that glass if it really is one piece it had to be cast that way.
This is the exact same issue I mentioned back when people were getting excited about these, not only is there an obvious weak point on the tank but replacements are a PITA.
Yes it will. You MIGHT be able to find someone that has blown glass type equipment that can make it but a one off custom job like that might end up more expensive than just buying a whole new device. If you could get/create a perfect mold for what you needed it might also be possible to make a replacement in a kiln depending on the composition of the glass you are using. Getting a machine shop to make one out of stainless might also be a bit pricey but at least if you get that, you will NEVER break it again. Of course then you can no longer see your juice level.
Once I get mine in I may also see about having a shop remake the top metal part so that it completely covers the glass part leaving a couple of small windows to see the juice (ala EVOD style). That could help prevent breakages.
Thats all glass tanks tho, ive broken a protank from dropping it too.
Regular glass tanks are easy enough to buy from a number of vendors in sizes for most atomizers now.
I might be running a group buy on the upgraded replacement glass tanks for the v2, it is supposed to be thicker and harder to break but I am still waiting on pictures of it. If anyone is interested please pm me, the MOQ is 50 and should be around $10 shipped to your door for it. This is not confirmed I'm just trying to see how many people are interested and if its worth it.
So I was just brainstorming on this issue and I had an idea. If I am going to have anything fabricated, it may be better to just get a perfectly round standard glass tank the height of the lower glass portion (as Stonedpenguin says these are easy to replace). Then have a machine shop replicate the top glass portion out of stainless. So basically a SS tube the size of the upper piece of glass that will use an o-ring and fit into the lower piece of glass. Then it would all go back together normally with the new SS part being covered by the outer housing the way it used to cover the upper part of the glass. Then in the future if you break the glass, it will be cheap and easy to replace.
I also considered having the whole glass part made out of stainless with little windows cut out and a piece of glass inside ala EVOD/ARO windows. This would provide drop protection and still let you monitor juice levels.
I also considered having the whole glass part made out of stainless with little windows cut out and a piece of glass inside ala EVOD/ARO windows. This would provide drop protection and still let you monitor juice levels.
didnt see that you had a separate thread for this.....but here ya go.
Had to type something below the quote in order for it to post.
Had to type something below the quote in order for it to post.
Thanks for doing this but something is off. The wall thickness should be exactly the difference between the outside diameter and the inside diameter. However in this case it it not. The calculated thickness for the lower part should be: 0.87 - 0.70 = 0.07 but you got 0.08. The calculated thickness for the upper part should be: 0.785 - 0.67 = 0.115 but you got 0.06. I know you said your caliper is not that precise but especially the top thickness seems way off. I am NOT saying you did something wrong, my guess is that the thickness is simply not uniform from point to point.
Can you check the top thickness again at a few different points and see how much variance you are getting? If it is significant then we just need to ignore the actual thickness when refabricating and just use the calculated values while strictly adhering to the actual diameters.
Again thanks for doing this.
the upper inside diameter is .67 in about six different places.....the upper outside diameter is measuring .78 to .785 in several spots around the circumference..... expect along the bottom where the "step" is.... I am getting a solid .79 all the way around it there....with the dial caliper laid flat on the step. But, it doesnt look tapered
I can tell you.... with the glass tube laid vertical on end, on a table.... I can actually get it to rock on its edge.... ever so slightly.... flip it 180 degrees, putting the other end on the table.... it does the same thing....
Clearly the machining was spent on the metal parts. They are obviously relying on the O-rings to fill the gap between the o ring channel - the O-ring - and the inside of the glass tube...
The thicker bottom part... I am geting a .87 pretty much all the way around, outside diameter. Twice out of six I got the dial to fall just a half a hair or so past dead center of the line - making it maybe .872 -.873
Inside diameter - I am getting .70 in three places , and a solid .71 in three places....
My 6" caliper only measures accurately to .99" on the dial, with no finer increment between each .01" hash mark. It's rarely ever used... But mot a machinist dial caliper.
However, The inside measurements are what matter... especially for the bottom of the tank.
The inside of the steel top cap ( drip tip holder ) measures a clean .79" all the way around its inside. So - .785" isn't out of the ball park as far as accuracy goes.
I can tell you.... with the glass tube laid vertical on end, on a table.... I can actually get it to rock on its edge.... ever so slightly.... flip it 180 degrees, putting the other end on the table.... it does the same thing....
Clearly the machining was spent on the metal parts. They are obviously relying on the O-rings to fill the gap between the o ring channel - the O-ring - and the inside of the glass tube...
The thicker bottom part... I am geting a .87 pretty much all the way around, outside diameter. Twice out of six I got the dial to fall just a half a hair or so past dead center of the line - making it maybe .872 -.873
Inside diameter - I am getting .70 in three places , and a solid .71 in three places....
My 6" caliper only measures accurately to .99" on the dial, with no finer increment between each .01" hash mark. It's rarely ever used... But mot a machinist dial caliper.
However, The inside measurements are what matter... especially for the bottom of the tank.
The inside of the steel top cap ( drip tip holder ) measures a clean .79" all the way around its inside. So - .785" isn't out of the ball park as far as accuracy goes.
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