Rewicking Evod head?

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withravenoushunger

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How do I do it. I think I get the idea. Wrap the wire around the wick about 5 times. put the wires through the hole. them put the rubber piece back in. I'm not sure exactly where the wires are supposed to be positioned. I tried it once and I got the coil to work, but I was just getting dry hits.
 

withravenoushunger

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Waiting on my Evods and Pro Tanks to arrive. Plan on re-wicking with hemp and/or cotton right away using the stock coils. Question I have is when time comes to rebuild the coil, how long are the coil legs from the wick to contact points? Any need to add NR legs with these?

I'd like to know this too. on the stock ones I have they seem to barely go past the rubber grommet holding them in place.
 

Big Screen D

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I rebuilt my Protank head recently: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/396220-kanger-protank-rebuild.html
The heads are nearly identical. The same process can be used for both.

Nice tutorial Face Meat. I had seen your thread earlier, and it's one of the reasons I wanted to get some Kanager BCC devices.

Let me rephrase the question. How long are the legs, or approximate distance of the exposed resistance wire on these Kangers, and do you think they would they benefit from use of NR legs?
 

pdxtechdoctor

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Nice tutorial Face Meat. I had seen your thread earlier, and it's one of the reasons I wanted to get some Kanager BCC devices.

Let me rephrase the question. How long are the legs, or approximate distance of the exposed resistance wire on these Kangers, and do you think they would they benefit from use of NR legs?

I just recoiled all of my heads so I do not have one to take apart and measure. The next one I rebuild, I will take apart and measure if you do not get a reply. However it is roughly 3/8"....

I really do not think adding NR legs would be of much benefit, or at least with one builds.. I started using Nichrome 60 32g wire this last week and love it. It seems much more responsive and I can pump more power into it without juice burning or maybe I'm just getting really good at building these coils. Anyways, with the nichrome, I get 1.5 ohm with 4/5 wraps and 2.0 ohm with 5/6 wraps so all the work of adding NR legs would bring down the ohms to low for what I'm doing. Only benefit I see is that I do see little burn marks on the gasket the holds the wire and eventually I would imagine that this will cause a problem with that gasket, but just pulling it in and out over and over will probably kill the gasket as well. I only buy heads for spare parts and they are really cheap so even if I have to throw one away every month or two it is not really a cost factor.

I've also tried hemp wicks.. I bought a spool of 2mm hemp cord and it wicks really well, but you have to pump a tank or two of juice through the head to get rid of the earthy taste.. I have boiled the chord several times and it hasn't helped.

Another think is that this week when I got the nichrome, I started building the coils like the come from the factory... 2 or 3 tight wraps and then a space in the middle and then 2 or 3 more tight wraps and this seems to work much better as well.

I was really discouraged when I first got this thing it took me a couple of weeks to find all the little issues that come up that would cause gurgling and leaking but now in the last week I absolutely love it.

Now my only issue is that I am getting SO MUCH vapor that condensation builds up in the tube very quickly and I am pushing a qtip down it frequently to clear the liquid.. I have to pull some of the cotton off the end of the qtip so it fits all the way down..

The condensation goes away if I remember to continue to draw after releasing the fire button or if I blow into the mouth piece after the exhale so I know it is condensation and not leaking. My habit in the past has been not to do that since I started vaping and I am still trying to break that habit...

I have a Protank coming this week and I expect some of the same issues and probably some new ones for the first couple of weeks, but in the end I know it will be worth it. The only non-fiddly device I've seen is a cartomizer, but they do not produce the vapor or flavor of these bottom coil devices.
 

Big Screen D

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Thanks! 3/8" would probably benefit from NR legs and the 34g Nichrome I plan on using, though I may just twist the legs as I've done on the CE3 builds.

I know 3/8" or even 1/4" of exposed resistance wire in a gennie atty gives off a nasty flavor. Kinda surprised this doesn't appear to be a problem with these devices.

FWIW, on the CE3's and Gennies I've built with cotton and hemp, I lose any off flavor in minutes. What I do is build the coil on a drill bit, fire it to smoke off the metal/machining crud, then twist the wick tight and feed it through. Then I twist it a little in the other direction to help loosen the fibers, wet the coil and let the wick swell overnight. Ends up just barely touching the wick.

Has really spoiled me such that I can't stand silica anymore.
 

pdxtechdoctor

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Thanks! 3/8" would probably benefit from NR legs and the 34g Nichrome I plan on using, though I may just twist the legs as I've done on the CE3 builds.

I know 3/8" or even 1/4" of exposed resistance wire in a gennie atty gives off a nasty flavor. Kinda surprised this doesn't appear to be a problem with these devices.

FWIW, on the CE3's and Gennies I've built with cotton and hemp, I lose any off flavor in minutes. What I do is build the coil on a drill bit, fire it to smoke off the metal/machining crud, then twist the wick tight and feed it through. Then I twist it a little in the other direction to help loosen the fibers, wet the coil and let the wick swell overnight. Ends up just barely touching the wick.

Has really spoiled me such that I can't stand silica anymore.


I don't have a gennie yet, but I will within 14 days I suspect - a mini did clone from china. I'd appreciate any tips via pm since this thread is on a different topic..

From reading around it appears to me that the nasty flavor on the gennies with longer leads is probably due to juice on the leads which burns rather quickly.. I imagine the bottom lead probably gets a little juice on it. On the evod and other devices with fiber wicks the juice doesn't get on the leads and I have actually never seen my leads glow or get red.. people also always seem to pump more power into the gennies vs clearomizers like the evod which would probably cause the leads to get hotter...
 

EddieAdams

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Disassemble. Separate atomizer from EVOD base. Remove atomizer top post with needle nose pliers from atomizer base. Wiggle and pull firmly gradually. Remove bottom positive pin. UN hook positive wire from rubber gasket then remove gasket. Pull old wick and coil out of the top. Pay attention to how it's put together while doing this.

I use natural 1mm hemp twine in mine. I don't prefer to wrap the coil wick tight. Have great vapor production. Perhaps better. Also allows me to change the wick out without replacing the coil. I get about 2 weeks out of the twine wicks. Vodka baths, water rinsed, dry..

Heat length of coil wire to be used. Remove impurities and makes more malleable. Be generous being new you'll refine the actual size the more you build. You need
2 standard round toothpicks. Though a slightly thicker drill bit is better. I halve one toothpick enough to fit into the bottom of the V groove wick opening and shave a tiny bit more off so the coil slides off easily. Once you have this correct, save it to use again and again.

6 wraps of 32gauge Kanthal a-1 around the complete toothpick will give you roughly 2.3ohms. The thicker drill bit 2.5 spot on. Leave about 3/4" legs and over wrap slightly so the stay parallel freely.

Remove perfect coil from toothpick or drill bit and place the halved/ reduced toothpick through the coil. Then place the 2 legs through the center hole wick assembly and slot the halved toothpick in the bottom of the V-groove wick opening. Now your coil can be held in place while you finish the connections on the bottom. I place a finger on either side of the halved toothpick and my thumb on the widest ring of the wick assembly.

I make sure each leg is on its corresponding side of the coil. I gently pull and bend the shorter leg( doesn't matter which just usually use the shorter one for the negative) to at least a 90°. Take care not to pull TOO hard and ruin/upset the coil. Then slot the remaining straight wire through center of the rubber gasket and insert the gasket holding the bent leg on the outside of the gasket in place.

Now gently bend the remaining straight leg you fed through the center of the rubber gasket to a 90 ° opposite of the other wire. Gently hold in place and insert positive metal pin. This likes to grab the wire a bit. Just be aware. Best to feed pin at an angle initially while keeping gentle tension on it.

Make sure everything looks good. Trim extra wire as close as possible. Slide halved toothpick out of the coil and whaaalaaaa. Check your ohms. Fire er up.

Coil opening will be aligned with the base the the V-groove wick opening.

With my wick I place one piece through the coil and one piece over. Replace top post. Good to go. Allow to soak a minute, few primer puffs, then start on low voltage and turn up gradually.

With silica depending on size you might want two through the coil and two over. It doesn't expand as much as natural wick.

Figure out what works best for the liquid you use the most... After you've done it, you'll be able to finish one in under 5 minutes with consistent results.
 
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Big Screen D

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Both my Evods and Pro Tanks hit the mail box today. Great design. Obviously a snap to rebuild, and cake to re-wick. Legs are about 3/16", so were good to go without adding NR legs.

Find the Pro Tank a bit airy with the Pro Tanks heads, but just perfect with the Evod heads for me. I can definitely see where carto users find the Pro Tank on the airy side considering I've been accustomed to vaping 2mm air hole genesis atty's for some time now.

I find the hemp wick Pro-Tank every bit the Genisis atty's equal. Really outstanding.

For eGo users, the Evod is nice as well. I ordered five of those in different colors for my less used juices. Wife confiscated three off em. Thought I'd get buy with getting her one pink Evod. :sneaky:
 

Big Screen D

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Reckon this 100% VG is wicking OK on my build? Bubble, bubble, clouds o vapor.:D
885175_150566258445429_1239459506_o.jpg
 

EddieAdams

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Very nice. I can't stand the stock heads of my ProTank. Both worked like garbage. Rebuilt one and that's soaking in vodka after 5 flawless tanks of bobas, Adirondack, gorilla juice... Worked great with the 100%VG and the 70%pg.

Just figured I would use the other stock head. It's late. Awful performance again. Will take care of that in the a.m.

I think the ProTank gets its airy draw from the wide center tube. It's slightly wider than the EVOD. The inlets on both are the same. 3 holes same size and 1 hole in the positive center pin, same size. Plus its noisy on the draw which I think has a psychosomatic effect.

Rebuild reduced the airyness slightly. With my heads I am loving the ProTank. I agree with you totally on the genny comment. That's some nice bubbling...
 
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