RM2 post

[Soignee]

Somehow I have fubared a post on one of my Rm2's...
The post screw will turn into the post and of course the post will turn past the point that I need it to to insert my coil properly.

When I need to back the screw out of the post to insert said coil, the entire post turns and the screw does not back out.

It is not an issue of just replacing the screw, the post head (where the screw meets the post) has become misshaped.

Is my Rm2 now useless or is there a fix for my dilemma?

TIA

 

[Rickajho]

Bumping for an answer. There is a fix for this - but I can't remember what it was. There may be whacking involved.

Which post is having the problem?

 

[ed101z]

Somehow I have fubared a post on one of my Rm2's...
The post screw will turn into the post and of course the post will turn past the point that I need it to to insert my coil properly.

When I need to back the screw out of the post to insert said coil, the entire post turns and the screw does not back out.

It is not an issue of just replacing the screw, the post head (where the screw meets the post) has become misshaped.

Is my Rm2 now useless or is there a fix for my dilemma?

No. You're RM2 is still fine. Sometimes my post screw moves as well, and I have to hold it with needle nose wire pliers as I un-screw the screw from the post. How far is this particular post turning beyond the stopping point you want the wire holes to stop at?

I ask this because mine did the same thing. After examining it, I decided to take a Dremel and shave a little off the screw so it would go a little farther in the hole. It worked, and I should've stopped there... but decided to do it a little more and eventually messed it up. It went almost underneath the porcelain after I messed it up. I couldn't stick wire through the hole. So, I had to order one from Rob. Once he told me the Negative and Positive posts are $1.50 a piece. I just ordered 2 of each because it's always a good idea to have some extra post screws, and screws on hand.

If you decide to use a Dremel to shave a little off the post -- be careful. Take a little off at a time. If you keep working with it, you can get the wire hole exactly where you want it. If you mess it up, you can order more from Rob.

 

[ckquatt]

Maybe this thread will help. It may give you an idea how it's put together and give you a solution on how to fix it.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...2-full-atomizer-itself-rebuild-pic-heavy.html

Sent from my Atari 2600 using Tapatalk

 

[supertrunker]

You might also try looping a little wire around the base of the post threads for it to bite on, when you screw the post back in.

T

 

[ed101z]

You might also try looping a little wire around the base of the post threads for it to bite on, when you screw the post back in.

Good idea T. What gauge wire would you use? It would have to really thin I'm confidently guessing.

Just wish there was a way to seal both the Neg and Pos posts -- to keep juice from running along the side down into the ceramic deck. I often have to take mine out and clean the posts, and inside the hole. There has to be a way to seal.

....thinking here..., thinking, ...thinking!

 

[supertrunker]

Thinnest i have is 32g. Sometimes the threads are just too borked though - you can see from the full rebuild thread that they screw into a thin baseplate, so wrenching on them is not a good idea.

T

 

[Soignee]

Yes, I was that ...... that squeezed too hard while turning the post back...

I want to say it is the positive post, the one closest to the drain hole.

So, Rob sells replacement posts?

And thanks for your input folks.

 

[supertrunker]

If the base it screws into is damaged, i'd suggest you keep that for spares and buy another.

The post spinning will drive you mad and distort your coils as well as give intermittent contact.

T

 

[Filthy-Beast]

Is it the negative post, one closest to the drain hole? If so cut a little nub of the 32ga off and drop it in the hole, this should allow you tighten it down to the correct position. do not do this to the positive post as that could cause a short.

 

[Soignee]

If the base it screws into is damaged, i'd suggest you keep that for spares and buy another.

The post spinning will drive you mad and distort your coils as well as give intermittent contact.

T

I actually have 3 Rm's (and a cyclone) so it's not like I'm hurting for toppers. It's the damn OCD that has me in it's grip with a dysfunctional topper. I'm gonna just have to chunk this one in the parts box and move on I think. I'm narrowing my builds down to just a couple anyhow...

 

[Soignee]

Is it the negative post, one closest to the drain hole? If so cut a little nub of the 32ga off and drop it in the hole, this should allow you tighten it down to the correct position. do not do this to the positive post as that could cause a short.

Yep, negative then. Closest to the drain hole...I'll give that a shot before I put this in the parts box...

 

[Filthy-Beast]

Good idea T. What gauge wire would you use? It would have to really thin I'm confidently guessing.

Just wish there was a way to seal both the Neg and Pos posts -- to keep juice from running along the side down into the ceramic deck. I often have to take mine out and clean the posts, and inside the hole. There has to be a way to seal.

....thinking here..., thinking, ...thinking!

No reason to seal as juice is inside the bottom of the cup under ceramic base during it's natural flow. Look at the rebuild link above.

There is a channel cut into the bottom of the ceramic cup and on the metal disk that both positive posts screw into. Juice flow up the center pin and then traverses these channels to get to the drain hole, The drain hole is where a 2nd negative post was originally, so by design juice flows in the base under the ceramic deck.

 

[supertrunker]

I am forbidden to type how many atties i have because if HRH sees it - i am a dead man. Without realising it, i seem to have become a collector.

T

 

[Soignee]

I am forbidden to type how many atties i have because if HRH sees it - i am a dead man. Without realising it, i seem to have become a collector.

T

Exactly!

 

[Roscoe01]

I am forbidden to type how many atties i have because if HRH sees it - i am a dead man. Without realising it, i seem to have become a collector.

T

Ask her how many pairs of jeans she has....attys cost less than one pair if fancy pants.[emoji12]

.... works at my house anyways....sometimes

When that fails I use her excuse. ...it was on sale

 

[Papa_Lazarou]

Ask her how many pairs of jeans she has....attys cost less than one pair if fancy pants.[emoji12]

.... works at my house anyways....sometimes

When that fails I use her excuse. ...it was on sale

When she asks "how many of those things do you have?", I hold up the one in my hand and say "um... one. How many do you see? OMG, honey, are you okay?! Do you smell burnt toast?? I'll drive you to the clinic.". I get a hall pass for the effort.

 

[RattlerX]

I gave the Mrs my two best woody's and put a Chalice on each. She no longer ask what is in the box. She just puts the box on the desk and it is there when I get home.

 

[redeyedancer]

If you need a new post shoot me a pm I have spares

 

[ed101z]

No reason to seal as juice is inside the bottom of the cup under ceramic base during it's natural flow. Look at the rebuild link above.

There is a channel cut into the bottom of the ceramic cup and on the metal disk that both positive posts screw into. Juice flow up the center pin and then traverses these channels to get to the drain hole, The drain hole is where a 2nd negative post was originally, so by design juice flows in the base under the ceramic deck.

I guess it's just the nature of the beast. Juice is gonna seep and run along post screws. Doesn't matter what device it is.

But I'm just wondering if there is a high temp sealant one could apply to the post screw threads that would dry, and provide a more solid conductivity. Was hoping Deoxit would do it, but if it doesn't dry... then it won't.