does anyone know if the rubber gasket that is between the post and the treads for a 510 connector can be bought at a hardware store.. and if so what size i should look through..
rubber gasket
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I've searched Lowes, Home Depot and Ace hardware and NEVER found anything that small. When I mess up the insulator, I just rip one out of a used carto or dead atty and use that.
Yeah, dead cartos are a good source, or if you are feeling crafty, make your own with silicone. Or, several layers of heat shrink tubing until it fits snug.
i think the new E2 cartos are a good source for that. i also use some of the rubbers i found on insulin syringes
I found a piece of plumber's gasket in my garage - the kind where you can cut out your own gaskets something like 4x6" and maybe 1/8" thick; it was orange red in color....
I used a hole punch (the kind you use for paper) and popped out a bunch of dots.... Eventually I figured you had to drill a 1/16 or 1/8" hole in the middle so they wouldn't rip, then put one on top of a 510 battery connector and two in the bottom (for stability), and pushed a finishing nail through them for the electrical connection - POOF! a perfectly functioning battery connector!
I used a hole punch (the kind you use for paper) and popped out a bunch of dots.... Eventually I figured you had to drill a 1/16 or 1/8" hole in the middle so they wouldn't rip, then put one on top of a 510 battery connector and two in the bottom (for stability), and pushed a finishing nail through them for the electrical connection - POOF! a perfectly functioning battery connector!
made another by taking a glue gun and covering the middle post with hot glue.. after it dried i took a dermal and filed down the glue so only a thin layer was over the post..
I use silicone tubing for R/C fuel lines. You have to open the hole up a little...but it works great. Just make sure you dont open it up larger than the centers head. Push the tubing all the way up and over the head of the center and leave about 1/8" over...push the tube and center through the hole seating it...then trim with an Exacto knife. A little PG or VG helps sliding too. Remember you need insulation both up and down and sideways!!
Works good for insulating the center wire for as long as you need your wire too.
Couple layers of shrink tube would work in a pinch too!!
Works good for insulating the center wire for as long as you need your wire too.
Couple layers of shrink tube would work in a pinch too!!
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If anyone is still looking.
The insulator in a 510 atty connector can be replaced kinda easy. A trip to a auto junk yard. find any GM car from the 80s the wiring connectors have what they call a weatherpak. unplug the connector and with a bent paper clip pull out the rubber seals that are in the female half of the connector. (grab a bunch of them). after some cleaning just cut it just above the 1st flange. They are heat/cold and chemical resistant. And fit perfect. If anyone wants perhaps I could post a pic.
The insulator in a 510 atty connector can be replaced kinda easy. A trip to a auto junk yard. find any GM car from the 80s the wiring connectors have what they call a weatherpak. unplug the connector and with a bent paper clip pull out the rubber seals that are in the female half of the connector. (grab a bunch of them). after some cleaning just cut it just above the 1st flange. They are heat/cold and chemical resistant. And fit perfect. If anyone wants perhaps I could post a pic.
The shape of the insulator has a lot to do with how reliable it functions. It needs to be liquid tight, and not push in too easy or contacts could short out. The CE2 insulator looks perfectly shaped. Tapered to make it easier to install and has a flange to keep contact from moving in. Seems to be juice and heat resistant.
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