Safety of black tanks?

[swayback]

I really want a black tank or 2, to match my pv's, I'm buying a Griffin rta! Period! And the black looks nice!
I've also looked at several subohm tanks in black, the starre v3, I have in SS and love, but black would look nice and I can pass my SS tank down the line to my wife or a friend. Of course even one seems to love the crown, and the Heracles plus, both come in black.
All the tank I mention are black (plated?) on the inside and out.
It looks sharp with the black on the inside of the tank, but I've read in a few thread (that I can't find now) about some safety concerns with tanks being black on the inside and maybe leeching harmful things into you're juice. I don't like that idea, but I have no idea if the concerns are founded or not.
I know when I started on pens, the ones I used had polycarbonate tanks, and harsh juice are the tanks up!
People call the harsh juice tank crackers, I never let it get that far, but I'd notice the tank get cloudy and toss it. At one point I took my knife and scraped inside the tank and tons of degraded polycarbonate scrapped right off with ease!
That was enough and that week I switched to a dual 18650 pv and of course glass tanks!
I'm sure something bad was leeching out of the polycarbonate!
I still vape some very harsh juice! Cinnamon, citrus, you guys know the tank crackers.

So what to do?
If tanks with fully black internal parts are dangerous then I'm not interested at all, but I'd really like a nice matching tank or 2, silly I know, but I do...

Can anyone help me here?
I don't need scientific studies, educated opinions are fine by me!

Thanks for the help!

 

[swayback]

No one has an opinion or advise on this?
The search functions here and Google are really failing me with this topic and if really like to know more!

 

[zoiDman]

No one has an opinion or advise on this?
The search functions here and Google are really failing me with this topic and if really like to know more!

I have Mixed feeling on Black Tanks where the Black is in contact with the e-Liquid.

On one hand, I'm sure it can be Done/Made safely. On the Other Hand, I'm sure that there are ways that it can be done Incorrectly.

 

[classwife]

Moved to Clearomizers from Tanks


Tanks
A forum for general discussion of carto tanks. Not for clearo type tanks

 

[Jwaterski]

Do you know what coating is applied to the interior of the tank, or what pretreatment is used to ensure the coating sticks? What is the makeup of all the juices you might vape? I'm no chemist, but this would be critical information to determining the possible problems you may encounter. I doubt the risk is all that great.

 

[inspects]

I believe it is anodized stainless steel, making it black in color, not a paint.

 

[coilburner]

It is anodized. Anodizing uses electric current to attract the color. I don't believe there's a chance in hell its going to leach into the juice. BTW, You cant anodize steel, stainless or otherwise.

 

[Plumes.91]

if its indeed anodizing, like CB said, it's SSSSSSSSSSSAFE! If it's chrome paint, like the olden days.. It's OUT! lol... We used-to have to deal with some true crap. I still have a rebuildable tank with plastic build-deck, which shows plenty of signs of burning from the coil getting too hot/too close. Something else I also found silly about the "HyperSRT" tank, was that it had insulated wires running INSIDE the tank w/ur juice.

lol. but yeah, nah, if the tank is anodized then there's no issue with it coming in contact with juice. it's a chemical process that forces the molecular structure of the metal to turn black and hold that color. No acid is going to cause the anodizing to leech, because the anodizing is basically a microscopic layer of metals, if i remember correctly. So i think ya be safe.

& I'm frozen. goodnight every1. & good vapes...

 

[inspects]

It is anodized. Anodizing uses electric current to attract the color. I don't believe there's a chance in hell its going to leach into the juice. BTW, You cant anodize steel, stainless or otherwise.

Anodized stainless steel is diffraction coloration like anodized titanium.

 

[coilburner]

Anodized stainless steel is diffraction coloration like anodized titanium.

this is the very first thing that came up on google, that also confirms my years of knowledge.
"Steel and stainless steel can't be anodized; the process baths used to anodize aluminum will attack and dissolve steel parts. Your parts need to be completely stripped of any steel otherwise the steel will be damaged during the process."
heres what Wikipedia says about the subject. Ill save you the trouble of reading it. nowhere does it say you can anodize steel.
Anodizing - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
I also couldn't find "diffraction coloration" mentioned anywhere on the internet.

 

[Troll from behind]

"Producing chemically coloured finishes on stainless steel

Colouring of stainless steel is normally restricted to sheet products, and although it is possible to colour fabricated components. Only the finest quality stainless steel sheet can be successfully chemically coloured on a production basis.

Chemical colouring of stainless steel sheet uses a mixture of chromic and sulphuric acids that develop the thickness of the naturally occurring passive film on the steel surface, depending on the immersion time. It is a two stage immersion process that requires close control on the operation's parameters and a considerable operator skill to get the required colour consistency. A far less frequently produced 'blackened' finish can be done by immersion on a fused sodium dichromate salt bath at around 400 C. This will not be discussed further in this article.

The colours produced are the result of light wave interference effects in as light is reflected from the surface of the thickened oxide passive layer and interface of the passive layer and steel surface. The sequence of colours formed as the film grows in thickness ranges through bronze, blue, black, charcoal, gold, red-violet and green. With care, intermediate colours are possible. The finished thickness of the passive film ranges from 0.02 microns to produce a bronze colour effect to 0.36 microns to produce a green colour effect. between the passive layer and the steel surface of the sheet.

The range of colours commercially available on austenitic 1.4301 (304) and 1.4401 (316) grades includes blue, black, bronze, gold, green and red/violet. A charcoal colour effect can be produced by treating a satin polished sheet to the same conditions that normally produce a blue on non-polished sheet surfaces. The range of colours possible on ferritic grade 1.4016 (430) material is generally more restricted.

A wide range of pre-finished surfaces can be coloured. These include flat mechanically ground, polished (satin) or blasted finishes or roll-patterned surfaces. Colouring can also be combined with acid etched patterns to provide an even wider range of textures, lusters and reflectivity effects

Comparison with anodized, painted and oxidized surfaces

Unlike anodizing, as used widely on aluminium products, the process is not an electrochemical one and in contrast to painting, there are no pigments or colouring chemicals used. Perhaps more important the process does not rely on heat to oxidize the surface, like the temper colours on heating at temperatures between 300 and 600 C. In contrast to these oxidized surfaces, chemically coloured stainless steel retains the aqueous (atmospheric) corrosion resistance of the un-coloured surface."
Article: Specifying coloured stainless steel finishes and their applications

 

[swayback]

Well I sent a few mails out to find out how the color is applied, I don't see it stated anywhere for any of commonly used black inside tank I see or I'm interested in. Obviously knowing that is critical!
Of course I dint know the entire makeup of any juice I vape, I don't think many manufacturers publicly post this, could be wrong there, but again, I don't see it anywhere... I don't know what I'll vape in the future either so I think that information is, for the most part, irrelevant.
Does anyone here confidently know every single ingredient in the juice they vape except for diy?

The last post isn't exactly over my head, but far exceeded my knowledge on this subject! Going to have learn some new stuff to be able to full comprehend and apply all that! Whew!
Thanks for the answers!

Just by looking at the tanks I see, the first thing that comes to my mind is powder coating.
That's just a guess, but most seem to have a somewhat rough texture that I associate with powder coating. I know that it generally regarded as a pretty durable treatment too, as is anodizing, but I actually did know that you can only anodize aluminum.

Maybe I'll just get the damn SS Griffin and put black vape bands on it, that's what I do now with my tanks...doesn't look very good, they hang up on stuff and people laugh at me... But I'm used to last one...

 

[swayback]

It is anodized. Anodizing uses electric current to attract the color. I don't believe there's a chance in hell its going to leach into the juice. BTW, You cant anodize steel, stainless or otherwise.

I don't follow... It seems you're contradicting yourself, no offense, are you saying the interior parts are anodized aluminum?
Sorry I don't understand...

 

[zoiDman]

...

Maybe I'll just get the damn SS Griffin and put black vape bands on it, that's what I do now with my tanks...doesn't look very good, they hang up on stuff and people laugh at me... But I'm used to last one...

I think you can see Now why I have Mixed Feeling about when the Black touches the e-Liquid. LOL.

Because there are Many Ways to change the Appearance of the Surface Boundary of a Metal. And some may be Perfectly Expectable for contact with an e-Liquid. And some Not So Much.

 

[zoiDman]

BTW - Many Times the surface finish achieved by Plating is done in a Multi-Step Process.

Because the Final Layer may not Adhere well to the Base Substrate. Or because the Finish may not be Cosmetically Good.

So a Base Layer of something like Copper or Nickel is applied 1st. Then the Final Layer is applied to it.

 

[coilburner]

"Producing chemically coloured finishes on stainless steel

Colouring of stainless steel is normally restricted to sheet products, and although it is possible to colour fabricated components. Only the finest quality stainless steel sheet can be successfully chemically coloured on a production basis.

Chemical colouring of stainless steel sheet uses a mixture of chromic and sulphuric acids that develop the thickness of the naturally occurring passive film on the steel surface, depending on the immersion time. It is a two stage immersion process that requires close control on the operation's parameters and a considerable operator skill to get the required colour consistency. A far less frequently produced 'blackened' finish can be done by immersion on a fused sodium dichromate salt bath at around 400 C. This will not be discussed further in this article.

The colours produced are the result of light wave interference effects in as light is reflected from the surface of the thickened oxide passive layer and interface of the passive layer and steel surface. The sequence of colours formed as the film grows in thickness ranges through bronze, blue, black, charcoal, gold, red-violet and green. With care, intermediate colours are possible. The finished thickness of the passive film ranges from 0.02 microns to produce a bronze colour effect to 0.36 microns to produce a green colour effect. between the passive layer and the steel surface of the sheet.

The range of colours commercially available on austenitic 1.4301 (304) and 1.4401 (316) grades includes blue, black, bronze, gold, green and red/violet. A charcoal colour effect can be produced by treating a satin polished sheet to the same conditions that normally produce a blue on non-polished sheet surfaces. The range of colours possible on ferritic grade 1.4016 (430) material is generally more restricted.

A wide range of pre-finished surfaces can be coloured. These include flat mechanically ground, polished (satin) or blasted finishes or roll-patterned surfaces. Colouring can also be combined with acid etched patterns to provide an even wider range of textures, lusters and reflectivity effects

Comparison with anodized, painted and oxidized surfaces

Unlike anodizing, as used widely on aluminium products, the process is not an electrochemical one and in contrast to painting, there are no pigments or colouring chemicals used. Perhaps more important the process does not rely on heat to oxidize the surface, like the temper colours on heating at temperatures between 300 and 600 C. In contrast to these oxidized surfaces, chemically coloured stainless steel retains the aqueous (atmospheric) corrosion resistance of the un-coloured surface."
Article: Specifying coloured stainless steel finishes and their applications

So its not anodizing then. Perhaps the stongest statement in what you posted that supports that is
"Unlike anodizing, as used widely on aluminium products, the process is not an electrochemical one and in contrast to painting, there are no pigments or colouring chemicals used."

I don't follow... It seems you're contradicting yourself, no offense, are you saying the interior parts are anodized aluminum?
Sorry I don't understand...

Most likely aluminum, could be one of the other metals that's able to be anodized. As far as the power coating that was mentioned in a post. Its Highly unlikely its power coated. As far as I know power coated doesn't work where theres threads because its more like a paint and would make it so the threads wouldn't screw together. I know in the world of dirt bikes if you want to power coat something you have to tape off any parts where theres threads or a press fitting (such as a bearing).

 

[swayback]

So just to clarify(sorry, I'm sick and everything is all hazy...)
You're saying that most likely the they've coated the SS in aluminum, then anodized that aluminum surface?
Or possibly made the entire tank from aluminum and anodized that... Something along these lines anyway, right?
It seems like either of those options is a compromise of sorts... If it's solid Aluminum the softer threads aren't very appealing!
If they've bonded aluminum to the SS then anodized it, that seems like it would be a lot of added cost to manufacture, but both versions cost the same... It also seems like it wouldn't be very durable compared to SS...
Clearly I'm very ignorant on these matters, and without more info from the manufacturer, I'll never know whats what...
I do know a lot of black tanks are very popular, and many of them seem to have a very durable finish on them!
Such as the crown...
Ah...what to do...what to do...

I'm definitely a function over form kinna guy so I guess SS is the better option... I sure did want a matching tank though!

I did say to hell with my health for damn near 20 years of smoking... The black is mighty tempting, I'm probably over thinking this and over reacting to something with minimal risk, especially compared to cigarettes...

Ugh...
Thank for the input and information everyone, I knew I wouldnt get a cut n dry answer of yes it's safe or no it's not, there's just too many variables in the equation to consider, not to mention information that we don't have, namely, what process is used to apply the finish to any given tank...

 

[Jwaterski]

If you like the black, get it, don't worry too much about it. Unless it is finished with some really bad lead based paint, I doubt the risk is that high. Normal urathane, enamel, even the chromates in primer or used for anodizing would be so minimal your exposure would probably be less than a routine day breathing exhaust fumes from traffic, eating fast foods heated in microwaves, hanging around your smoker friends. Vaping itself has not been around long enough for the long term affects to be determined.

 

[swayback]

You mean all those things are dangerous!?!
What kind of world do we live in?
Surely not everything out there kills us? Does it?
Sorry to get sarcastic, I try to use the same examples you used to explain to people that it's s dangerous world we live in, but most still want to argue with me that vaping is so dangerous... As they light up another cig, or do 60 through a red light...

I've still gotta wait for clearance from the boss to order my Griffin, so I'll have time think about it... Really looking forward to vertical comp build that actually wicked right for vert!
Sick of my friend thing to show me how great his aromamizer is with it built vertically and then the damn wick run right up the middle of the coils!
I can't convince him there's another way, and until I have a Griffin or criusv3 (obviously going for the Griffin!) I can't show him!

Now I'm off topic and rambling, sorry!
I need to use this forum more, I'm really becoming passionate about vaping!

Thanks for all the help!

 

[David Wolf]

I really want a black tank or 2, to match my pv's, I'm buying a Griffin rta! Period! And the black looks nice!
I've also looked at several subohm tanks in black, the starre v3, I have in SS and love, but black would look nice and I can pass my SS tank down the line to my wife or a friend. Of course even one seems to love the crown, and the Heracles plus, both come in black.
All the tank I mention are black (plated?) on the inside and out.
It looks sharp with the black on the inside of the tank, but I've read in a few thread (that I can't find now) about some safety concerns with tanks being black on the inside and maybe leeching harmful things into you're juice. I don't like that idea, but I have no idea if the concerns are founded or not.
I know when I started on pens, the ones I used had polycarbonate tanks, and harsh juice are the tanks up!
People call the harsh juice tank crackers, I never let it get that far, but I'd notice the tank get cloudy and toss it. At one point I took my knife and scraped inside the tank and tons of degraded polycarbonate scrapped right off with ease!
That was enough and that week I switched to a dual 18650 pv and of course glass tanks!
I'm sure something bad was leeching out of the polycarbonate!
I still vape some very harsh juice! Cinnamon, citrus, you guys know the tank crackers.

So what to do?
If tanks with fully black internal parts are dangerous then I'm not interested at all, but I'd really like a nice matching tank or 2, silly I know, but I do...

Can anyone help me here?
I don't need scientific studies, educated opinions are fine by me!

Thanks for the help!

I have no desire to trust any coating inside of a tank, especially one made in China. Stainless steel I trust.