Screwdriver MKII Nightmare (Help Please!)

[ellisera]

Last year I bought 2 Screwdriver MKII kits (I like having a backup). The first one I opened lasted me until last month, when I lost it. It was a dream vaping from it, as I'd only experienced the M401 beforehand. I opened the second kit, while ordering a third as a back-up. When the backup arrived, I opened that and tested the vape to make sure it worked, and never switched to the old one. Two days in, it stopped working.

It's not the atty, not the battery (I have plenty new spares of both, and I tested them with the other Screwdriver, so I knew they worked), but it has to be the spring mechanism on the inside. I called the place where I bought it from, and they were supposed to send me a replacement (Which I'm still waiting on, and I think I need to call them again on).

Meanwhile I've been using the older, but recently opened Screwdriver, and tonight, crisis, it happened again. I am now stuck with two non-working Screwdrivers, and no way to vape!

I'm calling my supplier again either tomorrow morning or Monday to light a fire under their behinds. In the meantime, I'm looking for a solution to fixing these mods, and maybe some recommendations for a more reliable mod PV.

Anyone have any recommendations? I live on the East Coast in NYC, and would greatly appreciate a way to not have to wait to vape until something arrives in the mail. >.<

 

[samwest]

Never tried a screwdriver but have always used 510 stuff. I use my silver bullet at home and many different 510 variations while out and about. I bought a 510 manual battery kit for "just in case" a problem like this comes up or if I want to introduce a new vaper to the lifestyle. Personally I'd be freaking out right about now, but my wife vapes as well and has all her own gear I can use. I would pay overnight shipping from the vendor to keep from buying those stinkin' assed analogs. Good luck to you!

 

[JollyRogers]

Not much can go wrong with an SD. But seeing as you are having the same problems would make me lean towards bad atomizers or batts... Regardless, are they painted ones (black or such?) - if so, make sure that the spot where the switch goes through on the bottom and the threads between the two body pieces doesn't have paint on them. Also, clean the batt ends and the switch were it contacts the battery.

Do you have a multi meter, or a friend with a multi-meter? If so I would troubleshoot it. Check for continuity between the spring and the positive post (none means problem in top somewhere - good is ~0 ohms). If the top seems good, put a battery in, with no atty, switch meter to read VDC, and check between the positive post and the body (both parts of the body) with the switch activated (~4.1vdc is good. No volts or low volts is bad - probably paint or something preventing the switch from making good contact with the body).

I would just mail you one of mine, but they are all 510 ScrewDrivers and use 16340 batteries.

 

[ellisera]

They're not painted, they're the silver SDs. I used a multimeter, and the batteries and atties are fine. The buttons are screwed on properly and yes, the button springs are working fine. The issue is in the section between the battery and the atomizer on the SD body itself (the area with the spring in it). I called my supplier and I'm getting a replacement shipped on monday. In the meantime I dug up my old M410 passthrough and found a working atomizer in the house for it (unused from when I switched to the SD last year) and I'm using that for now. I have to say, it is a big downgrade, but it should hold until I get my SD.

I also went ahead and splurged on a Precise P18 yesterday, and will hopefully be getting that as well in 6 weeks.

 

[JollyRogers]

So it read open between the spring and the center post atty connection? Or is the spring compressed not making contact with your battery? The second may be a possibility if it had a shorted atty on it at any time, or is running real hot (say a LR atty and hitting it a lot). The spring is a safety feature on it, supposed to compress with an over current. Glad you found a secondary backup!!!

Enjoy your P18. It is a nice PV and very well built. Much heavier then a screwdriver. I am surprised you didn't go P16, much more screwdriver like. With your Precise, make sure you keep switch connection clean and center post clean on the atty connection and it will serve you well.

 

[ellisera]

The spring was definitely making contact, and I haven't tried LR atties yet, and although I have had shorted atties on them before, they both quit working with functioning atties in them. Basically at this point there is no current going through between the spring and the center post atty connection, which stumps me a little bit.

One of the reasons I picked a Precise is because it's all mechanical and I shouldn't have this problem with it ever (not to mention it is gorgeously crafted). Like you said (and yes, I did spend hours of research to figure out what I wanted) as long as it's kept clean it should work very well.

I picked the P18 for now because I wanted a long battery life work horse. The other feature I liked from the P18 over the P16 was that not only can I get a 3.7 vape from it, but it can potentially be converted to close to a "6 volt" vape (as David states on the website). I know it probably wouldn't be a true 6v vape, but having never vaped at that level before, I'm sure it will be an experience. Granted, the main function I'll be using it for will be the 3.7, but I like having that potential versatility.

A P16 and a P10 will be nice in the future, but right now I only had the budget for 1 really nice mod, so the P18 seemed like a better pick for me.

 

[JollyRogers]

Personally, I would stay with P18 or 16. I have had a P18 and a P10, the p10 is nice for about 30 minutes. I ended up selling them both, because I did not like the bottom buttons and found the buttong on my P18 a little rough. David has fixed that now I believe. So guess the wire between you spring (it sits on a pcb board) and you positive atty connection is broken some how if you have an open on the multi meter between the spring and the center post. Best of luck.

 

[ellisera]

I was personally thinking about the P10 (with backup batteries) specifically for business meetings since it looks so nice and sleek. I've read reviews where people say lasts them 1 1/2 hours until it drops off. I figure I can use the P18 or a P16 for the commute (I live in NYC, so it's public transit and no issue with one handed driving). Of course this is all just wishful thinking for now until I actually purchase those pieces too.