I'm building my first rda. It's a doge competition clone. I'm using a turtle ship v3 for power and a Sony vtc4 battery. I just tried a dual coil for the third time and got it exactly how I want it it's nice and neat and reads. 45 ohm. The problem I'm having is that the screws on the posts love to just get loose if you're not crazy gentle. And over time they back out and go loose. They're really hard to tighten, sometimes they will tighten over themselves, like, I'll screw it in and then it'll go back to the top of the thread and I have to screw it in again.. Is this a defect? Other than that it pumps out vapor. But I'm worried about a wire coming loose. Any help is appreciated!
Screws backing out from my rda! :(
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Sounds like a possible defect. If you over tighten and hit the max depth of the screw it could be pushing back out. In that case you could try filing the screw oh so slightly to try to get it a little shorter. The amount you would want to take off is so tiny that I would not risk cutting the screw length, but filing gently should be okay.
If it's coming out by screwing in it's er.........screwed and you could try putting something down it to tighten it ( a bit of kanthal maybe???) or if you have a similar screw that MIGHT work. Since it's a clone I will presume you can't return it, if you can do.
So, you're saying that the screw rises by itself after you've tightened it, correct? If that is what is happening, it's a stripped thread and the screw will also continue to turn in the post if you continue to tighten it, correct?
If this is the case it is damaged and your supplier should replace the RDA.
Heat and metal expansion might be the culprit. That is a cloud chasing rda so I guess the coils your running in dual mode are 28ga to get you ,4 0hm? I always tighten down firmly but not over tighten as you could break the wire. Then I check the screws are still tight every so often when refilling. If here is a faulty post thread or screw you can replace it, Don't know if this helps at all, maybe put a picture up,
Just had an idea thanks to you juicynoos.
If they are using 28 gauge they could bump up to a larger wire size, I am a 24 fan, and see if that fixes things. It would be like 10 wraps at 2.4mm if I am seeing things correctly on steam engine, to get to around 0.4 ohms.
If the threading issue is near the bottom of the screw or near the hole in the post this could correct it.
Also, and I am surprised no one said it before, try switching the screws around to find out if the stripped component is the screw or the post threading.
If they are using 28 gauge they could bump up to a larger wire size, I am a 24 fan, and see if that fixes things. It would be like 10 wraps at 2.4mm if I am seeing things correctly on steam engine, to get to around 0.4 ohms.
If the threading issue is near the bottom of the screw or near the hole in the post this could correct it.
Also, and I am surprised no one said it before, try switching the screws around to find out if the stripped component is the screw or the post threading.
the doge has post holes, so you can use that fact to double back the wire and pass it through a second time so you're not relying as heavily on the screw; but sounds like the screws are stripped.
or if you're winding the wire around the screw head a few times, the screw might not be going down far enough to catch the threads properly.
or if you're winding the wire around the screw head a few times, the screw might not be going down far enough to catch the threads properly.
Thanks for all the input! Today when I woke up I put a fresh battery in and only one coil fired. The screw had backed out completely from one of the negative posts. No Bueno. Pretty sure the threads are no good. Any recommendations for an rda that's easier to work on with a bigger deck and nice tight threads? I like this one but I think it's not ideal for a beginner like myself, I am getting better at making coils though. Just want the rda to be solid itself.
Easiest fix for me has been to find the screw size (it's usually metric), then get a tap and re-thread the post for a slightly larger standard size screw.
For example, the Hobo (clone) has some really tiny grub screws... one was stripped, so I re-threaded the posts for a 2-56 standard screw. Picked up some grub screws of the new size and everything works fine now...
I would go through this with a clone, but if it were an authentic, then contact the manufacturer and let them make it right... clones are cheap enough that I'd just rather fix it myself instead of dealing with returns.
For example, the Hobo (clone) has some really tiny grub screws... one was stripped, so I re-threaded the posts for a 2-56 standard screw. Picked up some grub screws of the new size and everything works fine now...
I would go through this with a clone, but if it were an authentic, then contact the manufacturer and let them make it right... clones are cheap enough that I'd just rather fix it myself instead of dealing with returns.
Easiest RDA to learn on.... I'd go with the Mutation X... easier than the Tobh because there are no tabs... pretty large juice well/build deck... insanely adjustable airflow... good flavor, better vapor production...
The Doge is a great RDA, and I'm not usually a clone-hater, but why did you get the clone? The authentic is only 30$, and from what I can see online, clones are 20-25$.. Also they kind of look like a load of crap. I can understand getting a clone when the authentic isn't being mass-produced or whatever, but the Doge is being mass-produced (same company that makes Tobh clones, Infinite -- based in Shenzen China). Odds are the clones are being mass-produced in a factory right across the street from the Infinite factory.
Just sayin'.
Just sayin'.
Just looked up the Doge... pretty much same build deck as Tobh/Mute X/and probably 100 other rdas... I agree with nyiddle, the authentic Doge Comp is like $45... but if ya wanna save the clone, the just try to re-tap the posts like I described earlier...
In fact, it's interchangeable with all of those. At least.. The authentic is. I doubt the clone has as much backwards/forwards compatibility.
Also, they recently released/ran this: The Doge X, which looks pretty sweet. The guy presenting it in that video though.. What a loser lol.
I didn't realize that it was such a common deck... I've got a couple of Tobhs... just got my first Mute X and a Hobo... I don't really have a huge amount of experience with various RDAs... I liked the Tobh and just built the crap out of it... modified one pretty heavily for chuckin' da clouds... kept a 28mm one full stock... just recently started branching out with various models
Nice... I like what they did with the hole sizes! Makes perfect sense... slower airflow at the bottom, faster/higher pressure at the top... really get that cyclone spinning!
Yeah I'm mighty impressed with what they have been coming up with. My Doge has been my go-to RDA since I got it.
I have a Tobh clone (copper, by Infinite) and it's also really nice. I threw a comp top cap/chuff tip on it, because I don't like the slots that block up the air holes. Additionally, I flipped the main section of the atomizer upside down, and built my coils up a bit higher, completely avoiding the little air slits. Even at max airflow, the Tobh is a bit of a tighter draw (especially compared to the Doge).
The interchangeability is a really nice benefit of the Doge. Some days I want my Tobh setup (it's slightly higher ohms than my Doge setup), but still wanna rock the Doge logo, and I can totally do that.
Honestly I got the clone because I was low on money and just wanted something. And I love doge. It was 13$ on eBay. I've never used a tap before. Is it easy?
My copper Tobh has no draw... I opened up the airholes... turned them into a kind of a sideways tear drop shaped slot.
That's pretty cool how they're so interchangeable... I'm gonna have to start playing with more/different RDAs
Pretty easy to run a tap... just have to be careful to not break it off inside the screw hole. If you know anyone who is mechanically minded, they should be able to do it in about 5 minutes...
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1852803
30 mm magma.
1: easy to work with: just 2 posts, and the two posts are widely separated instead of one being in the center and the other off to the side.
2: the common size on tanks and rda's is 22mm; this one is 30 mm; it's over an inch diameter. real easy to build on with my old eyes
3: hard to say about the post threads, but it has post holes, so you just thread the wire through the post hole and tighten down the screws.
Other Pros:
- The top cap screws on instead off popping on and off, so no o-rings to worry about; I used to unscrew it alot the first week just to see the condition of the wick but don't need to do that as often anymore.
- adjustable center pin
- easy to set up single or dual coil, and set up airflow to match.
Cons:
1: if you look at the pic, you might notice there is a while plastic block down in the drip well separating the two posts
2: flathead/slothead post screws
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