Ohms Jumping on RDA

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TheWhiteChronic

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Oct 2, 2014
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Hey everyone. So I just picked up an authentic doge RDA. I slapped a dual coil build on it and it turned out fine. coils heating evenly from the inside outwards. It was reading at 1.2 ohms on my IPV before wicking.

After I wicked it up the ohms started jumping around a bit. I made sure that all post screws were snug and that the atty was screwed snugly onto my IPV. It then read at a steady 1.2 again. However I noticed that whenever I took the cap off it would read 1.3 and would continue to show 1.3 until I unscrewed the atty and screwed back in snugly. Then it would sit at 1.2 but the volts would bounce from 6.0 to 6.2.

I slapped on my Igo and it reads perfectly, no jumping around. I'm thinking that it's either an inconsistency in my build or a defect in the doge itself. I'm going to rebuild it tomorrow to see if that makes a difference.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 

edyle

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Oct 23, 2013
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Hey everyone. So I just picked up an authentic Doge RDA. I slapped a dual coil build on it and it turned out fine. Coils heating evenly from the inside outwards. It was reading at 1.2 ohms on my IPV before wicking.

After I wicked it up the ohms started jumping around a bit. I made sure that all post screws were snug and that the atty was screwed snugly onto my IPV. It then read at a steady 1.2 again. However I noticed that whenever I took the cap off it would read 1.3 and would continue to show 1.3 until I unscrewed the atty and screwed back in snugly. Then it would sit at 1.2 but the volts would bounce from 6.0 to 6.2.

I slapped on my Igo and it reads perfectly, no jumping around. I'm thinking that it's either an inconsistency in my build or a defect in the Doge itself. I'm going to rebuild it tomorrow to see if that makes a difference.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

1:
So, would it read 1.2, then you take the cap off and it reads 1.3, then you put the cap on and it reads 1.2 ?
 

edyle

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After I put the cap back on, it goes back to 1.2 only after I i slightly untwist the atty and retighten it. Also the volts fluctuate from 6.0 to 6.1.

However sometimes it will jump anywhere from 1.7 to 2.4

Well.
So you don't know what difference removing the cap makes and putting it back on. Correct?

And if it jumps anywhere from 1.7 to 2.4 that's a big jump; 1.2 to 1.3 is not a big deal.
 

TheWhiteChronic

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Oct 2, 2014
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Basically, when I take off the cap, it USUALLY jumps from 1.2 to 1.3. However I just dripped a few minutes ago and I test fired it before I replaced the cap and it showed a 2.3. Fired it again and it showed a 1.6, then after a couple more fires it goes to 1.3. Put the cap back on and it STILL shows a 1.3, but should be reading at a 1.2.

And even when it's steadily reading a 1.2, the voltage slightly flucuates.
 

edyle

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They are 28ga kanthal with ten wraps. I'm using an IPV so I don't feel a need to subohm. I'm going to pull out the wicks and see if I have a short.

Did you torch the coil before installing? Or make sure it glows red evenly while dry burning?

My coils are 10 wraps 28 gauge; internal diameter is about 1/8 inch. One reads 2.4 ohms; the other one reads... it read 3.9 ohm, then when I took a vape and tried again it read 3.4 ohm.
 

Ryedan

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big jumps are almost always due to a coil leg not being tightened down all the way or a short somewhere, like the coil is touching the deck or top cap somewhere.

This has been my experience also. Resistance going up is from a bad connection getting worse. Something is loose. I don't have a Doge, but you've got post screws, a 510 connection which connects to the positive post and from pictures I've seen the negative posts look like they are machined from the deck so they can not have any connection issues.

If it were a short, the resistance would be going down, not up.
 

Undarated

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Sep 13, 2014
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Lynchburg ,VA
This has been my experience also. Resistance going up is from a bad connection getting worse. Something is loose. I don't have a Doge, but you've got post screws, a 510 connection which connects to the positive post and from pictures I've seen the negative posts look like they are machined from the deck so they can not have any connection issues.

If it were a short, the resistance would be going down, not up.
Exactly what I was thinking. Any and everytime I've had a short, my device or meter would always show that I was sub-ohming. Fluctuating readings is a loose or broken coil connection.
 

Lessifer

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Feb 5, 2013
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So I just noticed that the "flathead" connecting pin on the atty is slightly jagged like somebody was turning it with a screwdriver. Could this be causing issues?

I'm not sure what you're referring to here, but jagged sounds bad. Any way you can post a pic?
 
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