Let me start with some background.
I built a VV bottom feeder mod that will safely go from 0.6V to 5.5V up to 20A with two 18650 batteries just to be able to do these experiments.
Attempting this without appropriate electronics would involve currents that are far above what any 18650 or 26650 battery could take.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/507150-20a-vv-bottom-feeder-rises-ashes.html
The 1st experiment was on a previous mod with the same electronics with an RM2 atty and simple rolled up mesh for 0.065 ohm at 1.23V for 19A at the coil.
A+ for vapor.
B+ for throat hit.
B for flavor.( Above protank, below Rene41, and further below Magic )
C for lag time
I finished up prototype #1 special atty for this mod and the results were mixed.
First try was with 6 circles of mesh and no vapor was produced because I couldn't get over .72V without going over 20A.
Second try was with 1 mesh circle and at 1.12V at the module (.97V measured from center tube to base) the current was 20A and the mesh had 0.0485 ohms of resistance.
B- for vapor
F- for throat hit
A+ for flavor ( * At least as good if not better than Magic * )
A for lag time
Due to the excellent flavor this design has potential if throat hit can beincreased made to happen.
Unfortunately there was noticeable heating of the whole atty base.
3 watts was dissipated from module to center post and base of the atty so not a huge amount.
Most of the heat however was conducted from the perimeter of the mesh circle to the atty.
The only way I see that this setup would be workable is if the mesh could be thermally isolated from the atty base with ceramic or other high temp low heat conductive material.
Otherwise the atty itself draws too much heat away from the mesh heating element.
Parts from left to right: Drip pan from BT804 / Compression spring from ? / Ring from Hero Hybrid / 1/8" OD SS tubing with feed hole just above mesh / 1/8" stop collar / Circle of 400 SS mesh with hole in center / washer / Compression spring / stop collar / Compression spring / Modified BT804 base / BT804 tank & drip tip topper.
The first compression spring pushes the Hero Hybrid ring up clamping the perimeter of the SS mesh against the base.
The second compression spring clamps the center of the mesh to the SS center tube between the 2 stop collars.
The third compression spring pushes down on the center tube to maintain good connection with the 510 center pin.
The air flow was from below the mesh going through it and the tube to the drip tip
BT804 base with center removed.
I will follow up with other prototypes as time allows me to make them.
I built a VV bottom feeder mod that will safely go from 0.6V to 5.5V up to 20A with two 18650 batteries just to be able to do these experiments.
Attempting this without appropriate electronics would involve currents that are far above what any 18650 or 26650 battery could take.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/507150-20a-vv-bottom-feeder-rises-ashes.html
The 1st experiment was on a previous mod with the same electronics with an RM2 atty and simple rolled up mesh for 0.065 ohm at 1.23V for 19A at the coil.

A+ for vapor.
B+ for throat hit.
B for flavor.( Above protank, below Rene41, and further below Magic )
C for lag time
I finished up prototype #1 special atty for this mod and the results were mixed.
First try was with 6 circles of mesh and no vapor was produced because I couldn't get over .72V without going over 20A.
Second try was with 1 mesh circle and at 1.12V at the module (.97V measured from center tube to base) the current was 20A and the mesh had 0.0485 ohms of resistance.
B- for vapor
F- for throat hit
A+ for flavor ( * At least as good if not better than Magic * )
A for lag time
Due to the excellent flavor this design has potential if throat hit can be
Unfortunately there was noticeable heating of the whole atty base.
3 watts was dissipated from module to center post and base of the atty so not a huge amount.
Most of the heat however was conducted from the perimeter of the mesh circle to the atty.
The only way I see that this setup would be workable is if the mesh could be thermally isolated from the atty base with ceramic or other high temp low heat conductive material.
Otherwise the atty itself draws too much heat away from the mesh heating element.



Parts from left to right: Drip pan from BT804 / Compression spring from ? / Ring from Hero Hybrid / 1/8" OD SS tubing with feed hole just above mesh / 1/8" stop collar / Circle of 400 SS mesh with hole in center / washer / Compression spring / stop collar / Compression spring / Modified BT804 base / BT804 tank & drip tip topper.
The first compression spring pushes the Hero Hybrid ring up clamping the perimeter of the SS mesh against the base.
The second compression spring clamps the center of the mesh to the SS center tube between the 2 stop collars.
The third compression spring pushes down on the center tube to maintain good connection with the 510 center pin.
The air flow was from below the mesh going through it and the tube to the drip tip
BT804 base with center removed.

I will follow up with other prototypes as time allows me to make them.