Smallest repairable atomizer?
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Hey all, what kind/brand of solder are you guys using on these? The solder I have been using leaves an awful taste. I have made a couple. I honestly was thinking that it was the kanthal but I ruled that out.
-Sam
-Sam
If you are using Rosin core solder, are you cleaning the solder joint after you are done? There may be some flux residue that the juice is coming into contact with???
not cleaning/wiping the solder joints can also lead to oxidation over time. due to leftover flux.
i clean the solder joint with a good wipe of isopropyl alcohol after im done, and never had an issue.
I use Rosin Core Silver Solder, but this is just what i have laying around from building RC battery packs and motor connectors...
not cleaning/wiping the solder joints can also lead to oxidation over time. due to leftover flux.
i clean the solder joint with a good wipe of isopropyl alcohol after im done, and never had an issue.
I use Rosin Core Silver Solder, but this is just what i have laying around from building RC battery packs and motor connectors...
Thanks BuzzKilla, the solder I have been using is the radio shack lead free RadioShack Lead-Free Solder 0.032 (3 oz.) : Soldering tools & supplies | RadioShack.com And I have tried soaking in vodka for days to no avail. I am not quite sure if its the solder or if I am doing something wrong here. I have even tried not using flux and just scoring the surface real well, but still the taste persists. The reason I know it is the solder is yesterday my hh357 died on me and I found that the positive wire had broke loose from the positive pole. I soldered it back up, and now it tastes just like my DIY atomizers... terrible.
I really don't have 35 bucks to drop on solder right now, but thanks for the link. Any other guidance would be much appreciated. I will try cleaning with isopropyl tonight to see what happens.
I really don't have 35 bucks to drop on solder right now, but thanks for the link. Any other guidance would be much appreciated. I will try cleaning with isopropyl tonight to see what happens.
If you got a solid solder connection, i cant see you doing anything wrong....
RS Lead-free solder is good enough in my opinion, its more difficult to work with, but probably better for you considering our purposes.
No need to go out and buy what i use. Its just a big spool i got laying around.
it may just be flux residue. never tried vodka bath, so dunno if that would actually get it off.
are you soldering while the insulator is still around the centre pin on the connector, maybe you are melting it? and that is where the taste is coming from.
could be a few things giving you that taste.
RS Lead-free solder is good enough in my opinion, its more difficult to work with, but probably better for you considering our purposes.
No need to go out and buy what i use. Its just a big spool i got laying around.
it may just be flux residue. never tried vodka bath, so dunno if that would actually get it off.
are you soldering while the insulator is still around the centre pin on the connector, maybe you are melting it? and that is where the taste is coming from.
could be a few things giving you that taste.
Well I got my HH357 to taste right now. I replaced the positive pole with one from a dead joye and used a smaller dab of solder, the cleaned the joint. I am starting to think that maybe it is some kind of flux residue. I will try cleaning the joints on my DIY atties as well. Maybe I can get one to taste good enough to use. I am not burning the gasket, this is more of a metallic taste. Sort of like if you thought about smoking through an old piece of rod iron. Thanks for the help!
-Sam
-Sam
thats what the forums are for, glad that i was useful 
I have an idea that that will make a repairable look exactly like a normal 510 atty.
Will post pics when done. Hopefully i don't mess it up.
I have an idea that that will make a repairable look exactly like a normal 510 atty.
Will post pics when done. Hopefully i don't mess it up.
My stealth repairable dripper!
These are the internals...
Side by side with an old Atty that came with an ego kit
Easiest thing to do....
1. Take a 510-808 adaptor, i used a "stealth adaptor" to minimize size.
solder post of choice to connector. negative to inside of outer ring, and positive to centre post. (i used the heads of sewing needles)
2. take an 808 carto
remove 808 connector from tube, remove centre post completely and hollow out the rest of the connector. leave just enough of it so that you have the thread , and enough length to press-fit it back into the carto tube.
3. I cut down the carto tube to make it the same overall length as a standard 510 atty.
Slap on a drip tip and enjoy!
* by using an adaptor i was able to use the vent holes from the 808 portion of the connector, and the connector on the carto is slotted for those vent holes. So no need to drill a hole on the side.
this was all made using existing e-cig parts, so if you have this stuff laying around, have a go at it.
I used a thick heatshrink in place of the adaptors insulator as it was shorting out(had a small tear and was loose). IF the shrink gets loose i can just take it apart and use another piece of heatshrink to get it snug again.
Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk
These are the internals...
Side by side with an old Atty that came with an ego kit
Easiest thing to do....
1. Take a 510-808 adaptor, i used a "stealth adaptor" to minimize size.
solder post of choice to connector. negative to inside of outer ring, and positive to centre post. (i used the heads of sewing needles)
2. take an 808 carto
remove 808 connector from tube, remove centre post completely and hollow out the rest of the connector. leave just enough of it so that you have the thread , and enough length to press-fit it back into the carto tube.
3. I cut down the carto tube to make it the same overall length as a standard 510 atty.
Slap on a drip tip and enjoy!
* by using an adaptor i was able to use the vent holes from the 808 portion of the connector, and the connector on the carto is slotted for those vent holes. So no need to drill a hole on the side.
this was all made using existing e-cig parts, so if you have this stuff laying around, have a go at it.
I used a thick heatshrink in place of the adaptors insulator as it was shorting out(had a small tear and was loose). IF the shrink gets loose i can just take it apart and use another piece of heatshrink to get it snug again.
Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk
Last edited:
If i bother to make a second one... sure lol
But it really doesn't need a tutorial...
- 1 510-808 adaptor
- 1 808 carto
- 2 sewing needles
- basic solder/dremel skills
- imagination
I will make a second repairable atty if i can find a better alternative to the sewing needles....
maybe a screw that can be threaded into a syringe needle... hmmmm
But it really doesn't need a tutorial...
- 1 510-808 adaptor
- 1 808 carto
- 2 sewing needles
- basic solder/dremel skills
- imagination
I will make a second repairable atty if i can find a better alternative to the sewing needles....
maybe a screw that can be threaded into a syringe needle... hmmmm
It would, of course, be cool to watch one made, but I think you've got it covered. I just have to grab an 808 carto and adapter to be sure of that though
Definitely on my "must-build" list now though - love the size and I love to drip.
Slick work BuzzKilla!
Definitely on my "must-build" list now though - love the size and I love to drip.
Slick work BuzzKilla!
I want to thank meatsbeakers for turning me onto this, here is my latest one, screw posts in there. Thing is awesome.
you mean threading tubes like this? lol
I've been trying to find a tap that would make threads for screws that small.
But I would feel that it would make for a tight squeeze in my Atty. I am still on the hunt for smaller
Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk
I've been trying to find a tap that would make threads for screws that small.
But I would feel that it would make for a tight squeeze in my Atty. I am still on the hunt for smaller
Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk
The size you need makes both threads and adds a nice corkscrew shape simultaneously.
The size you need makes both threads and adds a nice corkscrew shape simultaneously.
Links to site where i can purchase said tubes & taps & screws?
or at least some specs, screw pitch/tap size and tube guage?
Smallest tap i have is 3mm (very common for RC racing)
This pic is one of my failed attempts.
I used some standoffs from a parts supply store and just milled them down using my dremel and hand file... lol
for reference, this was about 4mm wider in diameter than a standard 510 atty.
Still not enough room, for me to comfortably wind a coil.
Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk
Last edited:
Started reading this thread this morning and kinda got hooked on it but had no plans to make a trip to Radio Shack to hunt down RCA jacks. Then I as far as BuzzKiller's posts where he simply used an 808 to 510 adapter and a dead 808 carto...
No shopping required... All required components on hand... ...? Figured I'd give it a shot.
Started off trying to use the sewing needles as described but I couldn't get the sn96ag4 solder to wet them so I said screw it and used 18awg solid copper instead.
Turned out better than expected (for a 1st attempt anyway). It actually produces much better vapor than any of my Cisco 306 attys!
Buzz - Thank you for the great idea! Here are a few pics...
No shopping required... All required components on hand... ...? Figured I'd give it a shot.
Started off trying to use the sewing needles as described but I couldn't get the sn96ag4 solder to wet them so I said screw it and used 18awg solid copper instead.
Turned out better than expected (for a 1st attempt anyway). It actually produces much better vapor than any of my Cisco 306 attys!
Buzz - Thank you for the great idea! Here are a few pics...
Here's my first attempt on making the smallest rebuildable atomizer out of some parts of Vivi Nova and Clearomizer using ss mesh and kanthal...
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