This is a wick I do to vape VG at low power. It's not the easiest thing in the world to set up, but done right, it'll provide good amounts of vapor at low power. It handles high power like a champ too, because of the increased wicking surface.
The idea is to increase the amount of wick in contact with the coil, both to keep more heat onto the coil, and to keep more juice touching the coil, while maintaining the coil exposed to the airflow. I'll be doing this setup on a Mini-A7, with the air hole at the bottom and the exhaust on the top (obviously), so I'll keep the bottom and top of the coil exposed.
To vape at low power, let the wick run dryer. To vape at high power, wet it a bit more.
For me this time, it was a re-wicking job. The coil is a 5-turn, 32-gauge, 1.4 mm I.D. microcoil. So first I removed the old wick and did a dry burn:
Then you need 3 mm silica wick:
Split it three ways. My silica wick has 6 braids, so I divide it in 3 pairs. Then tie off the base of the 3 braids loosely with a piece of Kanthal:
Superglue the end of each bread to prevent it from fraying, rolling it between your thumb and your index finger to form a pointy end:
Thread the center braid through the coil, keeping the braid taught to reduce its diameter while it passes through the coil, preventing it from fraying too much:
That's why you want the superglued end to be pointy, so it passes through the coil without damaging it, and without the braid coming apart. Depending on your coil's diameter, you may want to choose thicker silica rope, so the center braid fits just right inside the coil. The tighter the fit, the harder it'll be to thread the pointy superglued end through though, and some of the silica might fray from friction with the first loop of the coil.
Pull the wick all the way through, install the side wicks alongside the coil, then braid them together once, with the side braids underneath the main braid, at the other end of the coil. Then carefully lock the braid in place with a second tie made of Kanthal:
Finally, shorten both ends of the wick and bunch them up at the bottom of the deck, leaving as little of the atty's metal exposed as possible:
Done right, the top and bottom of the coil are exposed to the airflow, the sides touch the side silica braids, and the whole thing won't go anywhere.
The idea is to increase the amount of wick in contact with the coil, both to keep more heat onto the coil, and to keep more juice touching the coil, while maintaining the coil exposed to the airflow. I'll be doing this setup on a Mini-A7, with the air hole at the bottom and the exhaust on the top (obviously), so I'll keep the bottom and top of the coil exposed.
To vape at low power, let the wick run dryer. To vape at high power, wet it a bit more.
For me this time, it was a re-wicking job. The coil is a 5-turn, 32-gauge, 1.4 mm I.D. microcoil. So first I removed the old wick and did a dry burn:
Then you need 3 mm silica wick:
Split it three ways. My silica wick has 6 braids, so I divide it in 3 pairs. Then tie off the base of the 3 braids loosely with a piece of Kanthal:
Superglue the end of each bread to prevent it from fraying, rolling it between your thumb and your index finger to form a pointy end:
Thread the center braid through the coil, keeping the braid taught to reduce its diameter while it passes through the coil, preventing it from fraying too much:
That's why you want the superglued end to be pointy, so it passes through the coil without damaging it, and without the braid coming apart. Depending on your coil's diameter, you may want to choose thicker silica rope, so the center braid fits just right inside the coil. The tighter the fit, the harder it'll be to thread the pointy superglued end through though, and some of the silica might fray from friction with the first loop of the coil.
Pull the wick all the way through, install the side wicks alongside the coil, then braid them together once, with the side braids underneath the main braid, at the other end of the coil. Then carefully lock the braid in place with a second tie made of Kanthal:
Finally, shorten both ends of the wick and bunch them up at the bottom of the deck, leaving as little of the atty's metal exposed as possible:
Done right, the top and bottom of the coil are exposed to the airflow, the sides touch the side silica braids, and the whole thing won't go anywhere.
