4 hrs sounds better, but maybe I should go with something bigger first, maybe a 18350. I get a full 24hrs easy with a 14500 and a LR atty, so I had hopes with the booster. It would all fit so nice in a small package too. If 2 14500's in parallel works out I'd love to hear as it seems better to boost rather than regulate and lose power to heat.
Spst-no
- Thread starter Distorted.Clarity
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
that is the only reason i haven't done a 5v yet. trying to figure the best way to power and also not waste. on a full charge you are almost at 5v, to me i rather just use it direct or not at all if the option is to waste power.
Don'T know if I should stick my nose in here, But you didn't hear it from me.
I have heard that unless the batteries are paired,matched. when you use them Parallel The higher voltage bat will trip the lower voltage bat. Much like a short and you end up running on one anyway whilst the other one cycles on and off.
Makes sense to me. the last time I ran em parallel, when it came time to charge the 14500s it only took 5 min for one and 1/2 hr for the other.
I have heard that unless the batteries are paired,matched. when you use them Parallel The higher voltage bat will trip the lower voltage bat. Much like a short and you end up running on one anyway whilst the other one cycles on and off.
Makes sense to me. the last time I ran em parallel, when it came time to charge the 14500s it only took 5 min for one and 1/2 hr for the other.
Roadrash, I'll have to try that & see.
Asdaq, I get about 9 hrs out of a 14500 & 24 out of an 18650. You could probably get 3 days out of an 18650.
(this is just using them alone in a mod)
Here's what I got out of using a boosted 14500. The first time I tried it, I was using the loesr 100uf 10v caps(surface mount). I got 45 minutes & it quit. The battery was still @ 3.95v. I put in a fresh battery & got nothing.
Today, I used electrolytic 100uf 50v caps & got almost 4 hours. The battery was in need of a charge this time. I didn't have a meter with me, but I put it in a regular box & nothing. The battery is fine, charged it when I got home & used it.
Ok, that tends to tell me that the V rating of a cap matters here, a lot. I would go with that, but I was using a bigger box today. I got creative with copper foil tape & some foam board & made an adapter, the box is set up for an 18650.
I've got a 9v battery box with an 18500 & a booster in it. These caps are 16v. Sometimes it lasts all day, most times not. When it quits, the battery is far from needing a charge. I'm going to change the caps with a couple of 50v & try the 18500 & the 14500 in it & see what I get. If it works like it should, I'll know it's the caps making a difference & not the size of the box(smaller box, more heat). My eclipse tin has got 35v caps, is just slightly bigger, metal, & it's a workhorse. It quits when the battery needs a charge.
I mentioned heat, but nothing I've tried has gotten hot. Regulated 5v mods sometimes do. Depends on how much you're vaping.
I will say this about the 14500s, there was a lot of vapor, but the throat hit was not as strong as the 18XXX series batteries. I've got a square camera battery(3.7v 1800mAh) boosted & it's about the same as the 14500 when it comes to vapor/throat hit. It does last a lot longer.
DC, there is a big difference between 4.2v & 5v. The booster board, in my experience, does not heat up like a regulator does. It puts out a solid 5v while the battery is between a little over 3v & fully charged(4.2v), also, it only uses one battery & that's a big plus in my book. I'd much rather have the second battery as a spare.
It'll be a day or 2 before I can get into the 9v box & change the board, but I'll post what I find out.
Asdaq, I get about 9 hrs out of a 14500 & 24 out of an 18650. You could probably get 3 days out of an 18650.
(this is just using them alone in a mod)Here's what I got out of using a boosted 14500. The first time I tried it, I was using the loesr 100uf 10v caps(surface mount). I got 45 minutes & it quit. The battery was still @ 3.95v. I put in a fresh battery & got nothing.
Today, I used electrolytic 100uf 50v caps & got almost 4 hours. The battery was in need of a charge this time. I didn't have a meter with me, but I put it in a regular box & nothing. The battery is fine, charged it when I got home & used it.
Ok, that tends to tell me that the V rating of a cap matters here, a lot. I would go with that, but I was using a bigger box today. I got creative with copper foil tape & some foam board & made an adapter, the box is set up for an 18650.
I've got a 9v battery box with an 18500 & a booster in it. These caps are 16v. Sometimes it lasts all day, most times not. When it quits, the battery is far from needing a charge. I'm going to change the caps with a couple of 50v & try the 18500 & the 14500 in it & see what I get. If it works like it should, I'll know it's the caps making a difference & not the size of the box(smaller box, more heat). My eclipse tin has got 35v caps, is just slightly bigger, metal, & it's a workhorse. It quits when the battery needs a charge.
I mentioned heat, but nothing I've tried has gotten hot. Regulated 5v mods sometimes do. Depends on how much you're vaping.
I will say this about the 14500s, there was a lot of vapor, but the throat hit was not as strong as the 18XXX series batteries. I've got a square camera battery(3.7v 1800mAh) boosted & it's about the same as the 14500 when it comes to vapor/throat hit. It does last a lot longer.
DC, there is a big difference between 4.2v & 5v. The booster board, in my experience, does not heat up like a regulator does. It puts out a solid 5v while the battery is between a little over 3v & fully charged(4.2v), also, it only uses one battery & that's a big plus in my book. I'd much rather have the second battery as a spare.
It'll be a day or 2 before I can get into the 9v box & change the board, but I'll post what I find out.
i wired up the duracell box to run two 3.7v 14500 on the stock board. it dropped the volage by 0.10v
figured it would boost it since it says 5v on top. its set up to run two regulars in series and that would be less voltage. not sure whats up with that. guess tomorrow ill be using the TI boards and see if those caps i told you i got will work out.
didn't mean to say regulars.. batteries. was the word i was looking for.. bit drained from playing with the kids all day.
figured it would boost it since it says 5v on top. its set up to run two regulars in series and that would be less voltage. not sure whats up with that. guess tomorrow ill be using the TI boards and see if those caps i told you i got will work out.
didn't mean to say regulars.. batteries. was the word i was looking for.. bit drained from playing with the kids all day.
Last edited:
I haven't tried them, good luck on the caps. The datasheet says 100uf.
I haven't tried that board yet. I've tried other boosters like this & never got anything out of them with a 3.7v. This one does put out 5v, I've metered it with 2AA's in it.
DC, avoiding 5v is no joy either-- seems like a decent tradeoff to get stable 5v the whole way through than to lust for the fresh battery and then suffer as it drops down to 3.1v-- even if there is wasted energy. As for usabiltiy though, needing to change out the battery that much more often doesn't appeal to me so much. My mods need a fair amount of dis-assembly for a battery change and I don't need more of that in the day. I get enough flak for time spent modding 
Sci, very good point about a single battery used and the other as a spare, both for size of the mod and the peace of mind. I'm not going to go parallel based on roadrash's input-- by that same rationale, I wouldn't want to charge 2 cells in parallel. If I'm going to use 2 batts it will be to regulate and get to use a micro switch on that control pin!
And about 18350's: The capacity is greater, but the oompf factor isn't there like you get from a 18650. While I like the oompf, my 18650 mod is easily 4x the size/volume of the 14500 version, much like a table lighter compared to a bic lighter, one just stays at home.
Sci, very good point about a single battery used and the other as a spare, both for size of the mod and the peace of mind. I'm not going to go parallel based on roadrash's input-- by that same rationale, I wouldn't want to charge 2 cells in parallel. If I'm going to use 2 batts it will be to regulate and get to use a micro switch on that control pin!
And about 18350's: The capacity is greater, but the oompf factor isn't there like you get from a 18650. While I like the oompf, my 18650 mod is easily 4x the size/volume of the 14500 version, much like a table lighter compared to a bic lighter, one just stays at home.
Nice stuff there Sci, I looked at those tins several times, even by the case at Sam's club, but I passed them by. I've alreday got an unfinished candy box mod already commited to with a Mento's Aqua Kiss box, holds 3AA very well and is made of durable black ABS. That and I've got plenty of tubing to use too and a slew of pill fobs. Summer vacation was spent stocking up in a serious way.
Only thing missing to do several different projects are the capacitors, but should be easy to source locally.
I'm sold on the 'why' to go with a 18650 and a booster, but kinda want to go smaller 1st.
Summer vacation was spent stocking up in a serious way.Only thing missing to do several different projects are the capacitors, but should be easy to source locally.
I'm sold on the 'why' to go with a 18650 and a booster, but kinda want to go smaller 1st.
sci, i just used two of those tiny caps i have (10uf 10v) with the 4050cad board. works at a solid 5v.
since these tiny caps work, would that mean longer life on the battery. think you said you had larger caps and less battery time.
since these tiny caps work, would that mean longer life on the battery. think you said you had larger caps and less battery time.
The caps that I'm getting the longest run per battery are the ones that are rated 25V & above. All of them are 100uf. Put an atty on yours & see how & how long it vapes.
Nice stuff there Sci, I looked at those tins several times, even by the case at Sam's club, but I passed them by. I've alreday got an unfinished candy box mod already commited to with a Mento's Aqua Kiss box, holds 3AA very well and is made of durable black ABS. That and I've got plenty of tubing to use too and a slew of pill fobs.
Only thing missing to do several different projects are the capacitors, but should be easy to source locally.
I'm sold on the 'why' to go with a 18650 and a booster, but kinda want to go smaller 1st.
I've got a couple of the Mento's gum containers.
Here's the caps I just got. I couldn't beat that price locally.You want tiny, look here.
Last edited:
Do note the popular 4 pin regulator will in fact continue to operate below 5V, well into the 3V range. Also if using the control pin, as long as the kill switch is on it is using a small amount of current.
I also don't quite understand roadrash's comments. In my experience, whether using or charging, in parallel, the batteries seem to self balance.
Just saw those tiny mods the other day, very stealthy indeed. By locally this means Poland and waiting on shipping isn't fun. I've got a decent electronics store here packed with goodies like RS used to be. That mento's box is quite thick, maybe 3mm even. Cut down to size it's starting to look good. I'm quite envious of your copper tape right about now. Gotta get creative with stuffing the insides in.
Im thinking of puttying the regulator right up to an alunimum plate along with other wiring, making both a top plug and battery retention system. It will all be rather encased in putty, but provided with heatsink capabilities too. I hope it works.
Im thinking of puttying the regulator right up to an alunimum plate along with other wiring, making both a top plug and battery retention system. It will all be rather encased in putty, but provided with heatsink capabilities too. I hope it works.
for that pice on those caps you cant go wrong.
i went to rat shack and got some stuff. god they are expensive. 4 bucks for two rca males, 4 bucks for a small pcb, 12 for a dual watt iron that is about to be thrown out after 2 uses because it keeps bending and not melting solder.
i was better off not going there and using my iron from 1995. other than the tip looking like crap it works well. maybe ill just grind the tip and start using that one again.
i went to rat shack and got some stuff. god they are expensive. 4 bucks for two rca males, 4 bucks for a small pcb, 12 for a dual watt iron that is about to be thrown out after 2 uses because it keeps bending and not melting solder.
i was better off not going there and using my iron from 1995. other than the tip looking like crap it works well. maybe ill just grind the tip and start using that one again.
Here's the iron I use, 2nd one down. Been using it for months, works great. It's adjustable & only $14.95.
Sorry, didn't even look @ where you are.
You've got to post pics when you get this done.I got that copper tape on Ebay. It's been well worth the few bucks I paid for it.
DC sorry to hear about your RS woes, maybe just get a replacement tip for the good iron?
Sci, I'll post pics only if it doesn't turn out to be an embarrasment, there are a few holes still in my plan. It sure doesn't describe well that's for sure.
Sci, I'll post pics only if it doesn't turn out to be an embarrasment, there are a few holes still in my plan. It sure doesn't describe well that's for sure.
If it vapes & you like it, it turned out great! There better be a few holes, you won't be able to get any vapor is there isn't...
i got it all together and working.
not really noticing a difference from a regular battery at full charge other than the vapor feels warmer.
that is with a 510 with no bridge and is on it's last leg.
with a carto it does work better though. more vapor and more taste.
not really noticing a difference from a regular battery at full charge other than the vapor feels warmer.
that is with a 510 with no bridge and is on it's last leg.
with a carto it does work better though. more vapor and more taste.
- Status
