SS mesh in AGA t2 - hardly any flavor

[m204prgmr]

Cavere,
I've seen posting(s) that say rba have an airy draw and I'm experiencing the same too which bums me out. I'm not a big TH person but do like just a tad to let me know something is there.

 

[Visus]

dry burn look with cap on through the airhole for your wick if you cannot see it cherry red dead center you will have vapor and flavor issues.
2. SS mesh works really well with more wraps ie.. semi micro wick & coil very loose in wick hole

 

[JimzDogz]

It sounds as if you are not getting a good transfer of juice from the tank to the coil. Rather than trying to troubleshoot your particular scenario I'll give a quick rundown as to how a Genesis atomizer is supposed to work. Much of what I'll be saying will be in direct conflict with what you may have heard on YouTube or read in the forums. But I assure you that it is sound. First of all it's obvious by looking at a Genesis atomizer that it's a dual chamber device. The upper chamber being for air exchange and the lower for liquid storage. But how do you get the liquid to go against the laws of nature and flow against gravity up into the air chamber where the coil resides. Well popular belief is it is through capillary action, but rolled up SS wire mesh has poor capillary action. So how does it work? It works by creating a pressure differential between the upper and lower chambers. When I suck on the drip tip I remove air from the upper chamber faster than it can be replaced by the vent hole in the cap, creating low pressure in the upper chamber. If you have blocked all the ports that connect the 2 chambers other than the one that the SS wick (straw) is in the fluid is drawn up through the center of the wick to feed the coil. When I stop sucking on the drip tip the pressure in the upper chamber immediately returns to normal. This in turn creates a low pressure in the lower chamber thus pulling excess liquid back down into the tank. Nothing in this process requires tipping your mod up to gravity feed the coil. That only becomes necessary if I were to leave open ports between the 2 chambers. By having open ports between the 2 chambers it is impossible to create a proper pressure differential so the atty will function correctly. Understanding this it's easy to see why it's important to leave a opening in the center of the wick to allow free flow of fluid between the 2 chambers. When using cable that center channel is created when you burn the nylon cord out of the center of the cable. Also by their being only one opening between the 2 chambers the atty will leak very little should it be placed in a horizontal position. That is because the fluid trying to escape has to be replaced by air through the same hole. And if the air can't get in the fluid flow will cease, or at least be very slow. Also many people drill the air hole out for a more open draw, I've done this myself. But I feel it's important to know by doing so you affect the pressure differential. Because the larger hole allows air to be replaced in the upper chamber faster than a smaller hole. Which in turn requires you to such harder to create the same pressure differential. I hope by gaining a better understanding of how a Genny is intended to work you'll be able to work through problems that may crop up.

Hi gang
I'm moving to ss mesh in a AGA t2 and the flavor is bland to almost nothing. I oxidized the wick, and the wraps come to about 1.6 ohms. I have my ProVari set to 3.7.
I oxidized the whole wick b4 i started to curl it.
I would really like to get this process down and start enjoying a different setup because vaping like a freight train is causing me to go through at least 1 carto a day. And, moving away from my Kir Fanis Prive will be sad too unless someone knows how to rewick a Boge LR w/ss
thanks for being here!!

 

[Baditude]

It may take your wick a couple of days to "season" as some have called it, before you get full flavor production with SS mesh. I also do a fresh water dip between oxidations to remove the char from the torch. Don't over oxidize the mesh, the only part that needs be torched is the part that will be making contact with the coil.

 

[m204prgmr]

Interesting stuff Jim. Thanks very much! I'm not really a big fan of having to tilt something that has a 'wick' and find at most times I don't need to. I put the filler screw back in and the AGA T2 still has an airy draw with a bland nasty taste and I was not tilting. I think it's time to build a new wick and recoil it. Do you have a pic of what you mentioned, RE: When using cable that center channel is created when you burn the nylon cord out of the center of the cable.

 

[m204prgmr]

Thanks Bad,
The setup has been sitting for over a week with juice in it. I'll remember next time to just torch the upper section.

It may take your wick a couple of days to "season" as some have called it, before you get full flavor production with SS mesh. I also do a fresh water dip between oxidations to remove the char from the torch. Don't over oxidize the mesh, the only part that needs be torched is the part that will be making contact with the coil.

 

[JimzDogz]

Interesting stuff Jim. Thanks very much! I'm not really a big fan of having to tilt something that has a 'wick' and find at most times I don't need to. I put the filler screw back in and the AGA T2 still has an airy draw with a bland nasty taste and I was not tilting. I think it's time to build a new wick and recoil it. Do you have a pic of what you mentioned, RE: When using cable that center channel is created when you burn the nylon cord out of the center of the cable.

Stainless Steel Cable/Rope as a Genesis Wick Part 1 - YouTube At about 4:20 in this guy tells about the nylon strand. I am not any sort of know it all I just felt that many people are doing stuff without understand why it needs to be done. It's always been important to me that I understand as much as possible when I jump into something new. And if I can share what I find and help others, even better.