Stainless Steel Mesh Atomizer Mod

[DEATHTOCIGS]

I just tried using stainless steel mesh instead of fiberglass in my Bulli A2. I heated it and flash cooled it 4 times like I saw in one of the mod posts here and then wrapped my coils. It worked great as far as vapor and taste were both significantly improved, however, it seems to drain the battery faster and my whole mod gets warm now. I think the batteries must be working harder to heat not only the coils but the stainless steel mesh as well. Anyone else experience this issue by doing this mod? I think I'll switch back to fiberglass wicking as I'm afraid I'll damage the inner workings of my box mod from the heat being generated.​

 

[BJ43]

Need to know more. how many wraps, (ohms), is the whole coil heating or just part because it can be shorting. SS mesh should not be any more drain on batteries if it is not shorting. A lot of info in the following links.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/atomizer-mods/234652-plain-a2-no-tank-talk.html

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/atomizer-mods/232081-just-stainless-steel-wick-filler.html

 

[chuckie]

Try one more wrap around the mesh.That will raise the resistance some and cause it to burn cooler.I use very few wraps and my genesis atty burns very hot,I've not damaged any of my mod except a Reo.My cheaper battery holders work great with the genesis.

 

[DEATHTOCIGS]

Coil is wrapped 5 times, the coil burned only partially at first and then completely turned red, also the mesh turned red as well as it heated. There was also a slight hum when the button was activated that does not happen when I have my coils wrapped on the fiberglass wicking. I don't know how many ohms, but I was vaping at about 4.7 volts on a vaporlux variable volt mod. Thanks for your help.

 

[BJ43]

SS retains more heat from the coil than silica or fiberglass. 5 wraps of 32 awg is approx, 1.6 ohms almost 3 amps, 14 watts that's very hot

 

[chuckie]

Leave the coil exposed and drip some juice on it.Let us know if it still glows.If the juice stops it from glowing,it my be a wicking issue.But I agree with BJ43, 14 watts is a lot.

 

[DEATHTOCIGS]

So more wraps would be better, say 6 or 7. I've always used 5 as that was the instructions that came with the Bulli A2-T that I'm using. I did change from the nichrome that came with the atty to kanthal 32 AWG. Any thoughts about what causes the humming?

 

[asdaq]

I'd suspect the 32G kanthal is thicker than the nichrome you have so you need more of it to get similar resistance. Running it hotter may be hitting the threshold for the electronics in your mod making it shutdown and restart quick enough to hum/whine. Which mod is it?

 

[BJ43]

Kanthal 32 is about 1.1 ohms per inch. 2 inches gives me 7 wraps plus the distance to the posts 2.2 ohms. If you do not use a multimeter, measure out your wire to set the ohms.

 

[DEATHTOCIGS]

I'm using a vaporlux variable voltage mod.

 

[BJ43]

I'm using a vaporlux variable voltage mod.

Just looked it up and it has a 2 amp limit, anything greater than that can make it hum and damage it. At 4.7v you need over 2.5 ohms to be safe or reduce your voltage until it doesn't hum. That mod is not for low resistance like dual coil carts which are 1.6 ohms and you would need to use 3.2v to be in your limits.

 

[BJ43]

That mod is designed for HV attys that are over 3 ohms..

 

[asdaq]

From the site they say *Not for use with Low Resistance Cartomizers/Atomizers 2.4ohm and lower*, and from the design and features it sounds very much like Nuck's Fistpack circuit which uses the 04050 booster. I suspect it is in use here too. If you are close in resistance, setting it to 4.3v might get you under the limits and stop the the humming. Or, just add more wraps.

 

[DEATHTOCIGS]

Thanks everyone, I'll try more wraps an drop the voltage down a bit and let you know if it works. So glad this forum exist or I may have toasted my favorite mod.

 

[DEATHTOCIGS]

Using 8 coils on stainless steel mesh, vaping great, no humming or excessive warmth or battery drain. Thanks to all.

 

[WillyB]

Someone twisting their own coils needs a meter, plain and simple. Guessing and asking questions without any real details is useless.

 

[Boxcar]

@OP

If you have a Harbor Freight nearby you can pick up a multi meter for less then $8 and about $4 on sale. Just put the leads in the DC position and turn the dial to the upside down horse shoe ( ohms ). Doesn't get any easier then that.

Here's a link that will help you once you have your reading. - Ohm's Law / Watt's Law Calculator I shoot for 5-8 watts on my genesis atties.

 

[JollyRogers]

32 gauge, or .20mm kanthal is one I use. Usually need 7 wraps to get the resistance up high enough to be usable/safe on my provari. I have some .15mm kanthal also (what is supplied with the A-2 I believe) and I can usually use 5 wraps. I always check with a multi-meter what my resistance is before using it and won't use it on Riva/eGo batts I wish to keep . Use my A-2TM in genesis mode a lot, and frigging love it so much I am building my own line AND buying a Zenesis.

 

[Chaoticboy]

32 gauge, or .20mm kanthal is one I use. Usually need 7 wraps to get the resistance up high enough to be usable/safe on my provari. I have some .15mm kanthal also (what is supplied with the A-2 I believe) and I can usually use 5 wraps. I always check with a multi-meter what my resistance is before using it and won't use it on Riva/eGo batts I wish to keep . Use my A-2TM in genesis mode a lot, and frigging love it so much I am building my own line AND buying a Zenesis.

So more wraps on a lower ohm 32 gauge wire will achieve higher resistance?

Next question with assumption: is 32 gauge 3.5 ohm at 7-8 wraps and tighter coils better than 34 gauge 3.5 ohm at 4-5 wraps?

 

[meatsneakers]

It's better to experiment with both. My own anecdotal evidence seems to show that less wraps = better throat hit but less flavor at the same ohms and voltage.