Steel mesh not wicking properly

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schotzky

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Well I've been at this rebuildable thing for about a week and I can't get my steel mesh to wick. I used 32 gauge wire and 325 mesh since I'm using 100% VG. I rolled the wick perfectly, I cut the bottom of the wick that sits in the tank at a 45 degree angle to help with wicking. Nothing, just burnt and burns so bad. The ohms of my atty are 1.9 and I have tried the voltage from 3.5-4.3 and no matter what I do it tastes awful. Any suggestions to help this wick better? FYI I'm using the Aga-T2 on a ProVari.
 

MistaKuraudo

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Still pretty new to RBAs as well. With 100% VG I think you need to roll your mesh hollow for it to wick properly. I've also heard of people wrapping the top of either silica wick or stainless steel rope with SS mesh, oxidizing the mesh and then wrapping it with the silica/rope dangling in the tank for better wicking. I saw a video where the rope actually makes it so you don't have to tilt the device for gravity feeding.
 

hadouken

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Some points-

1. Are you doing the genesis "tilt?" Tilting the mod with the wick side of the tank facing down? This will help guide juice down the wick and onto the coil. Some people claim that their builds are so good that they don't have to tilt, but usually, you do.

2. You mention burning. Is your coil free from hot spots? Any hot spot on your coil will cause burning and a burning taste.

3. Make sure your wick isnt grounding on the top post or the bottom of the tank.

4. Are you oxidizing your wicks properly?


A couple of things to start with.
 

schotzky

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Some points-

1. Are you doing the genesis "tilt?" Tilting the mod with the wick side of the tank facing down? This will help guide juice down the wick and onto the coil. Some people claim that their builds are so good that they don't have to tilt, but usually, you do.

2. You mention burning. Is your coil free from hot spots? Any hot spot on your coil will cause burning and a burning taste.

3. Make sure your wick isnt grounding on the top post or the bottom of the tank.

4. Are you oxidizing your wicks properly?


A couple of things to start with.

Yes to all of the above. Occasionally I will find some how much coil has shifted and I have to go and fix the hot spot, but usually it isn't hot spottin
 

Rule62

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Another thing people either forget, or aren't aware of. If you look closely at your sheet of mesh, before you cut or roll it, you'll see that the stainless steel mesh has a "grain" to it. When you cut your mesh to size, take into account that you want the grain to run lengthwise with the wick, when you roll; not across it.
 

grainey1968

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Well I've been at this rebuildable thing for about a week and I can't get my steel mesh to wick. I used 32 gauge wire and 325 mesh since I'm using 100% VG. I rolled the wick perfectly, I cut the bottom of the wick that sits in the tank at a 45 degree angle to help with wicking. Nothing, just burnt and burns so bad. The ohms of my atty are 1.9 and I have tried the voltage from 3.5-4.3 and no matter what I do it tastes awful. Any suggestions to help this wick better? FYI I'm using the Aga-T2 on a ProVari.

When you say that you rolled your wick perfectly - what type of wick setup. Is it a solid tight rolled wick or a straw type with a hole up the middle?
 

st0nedpenguin

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Another thing people either forget, or aren't aware of. If you look closely at your sheet of mesh, before you cut or roll it, you'll see that the stainless steel mesh has a "grain" to it. When you cut your mesh to size, take into account that you want the grain to run lengthwise with the wick, when you roll; not across it.

I've never paid attention to mesh grain and have no wicking issues at all.
 

fanatic205

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Nov 5, 2012
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st0nedpenguin:9495554 said:
Another thing people either forget, or aren't aware of. If you look closely at your sheet of mesh, before you cut or roll it, you'll see that the stainless steel mesh has a "grain" to it. When you cut your mesh to size, take into account that you want the grain to run lengthwise with the wick, when you roll; not across it.

I've never paid attention to mesh grain and have no wicking issues at all.
same here never paid attention to the grain. I have to roll wicks with a big hole in the center and do a tilt for 100% VG to wick properly. You can add a couple drops of distilled water. When i order boba's i get a flavor kick and add 20% total volume of 24mg/ml PG and never have wicking problems
 

grainey1968

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Solid or Straw? Depends on the wick mesh material type that you have available. A lot of people state that they wick better with 200, 325 mesh. I used VG based liquid and use 500 mesh (Solid) with no issues.
Grain does make a difference IMHO. Maybe not a lot when using thin PG based juice. But in VG - i make sure to give the capillary action every chance to get up to the coil.
Cant hurt!!
 

Razlan

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Jan 26, 2013
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I'm facing the same situation at the moment.
In the past, I've had no issues with my AGA-T+. Haven't used this tank in months as I've recently found the joy of dripping.
Just thought I'd give one of the new liquids I bought a try in the genesis style tank, so I did a brand new setup with a resistance of 0.9ohms using 30awg kanthal.
Been getting dry hits ever since. I notice that the mesh wick is dry up top, despite the bottom being soaked in juice in the tank.
Could it be a vaccuum issue or something? I've left the air-hole screw off anyway.

Thanks a million in advance for any advice from you guys out there.
 

ilsonno

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Mar 9, 2014
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I have a 1.5 ohm dual coil AGA-T2 and run a mechanical 3.7v. I get a better vape by tilting and letting my ss wick ends sit in the air bubble in the tank. I had a burning taste problem, but after compressing my coils by scrapping a small screw driver over them to loosen them up and push them lower on the wick, shortening the gap between my coil top and positive post, and adjusting the newly made hot spots out, it hits pretty nicely now. Just keep screwing with it. I've burnt out so many wires in this four days of setting up my aga. I definitely dig it, though.

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
 
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<KDM>

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Make sure when the coil is firing it is starting from the middle out, starts glowing in the middle first and goes top to bottom evenly. If any part of it is getting noticeably hotter, that's why the burnt taste. The above statement is with the wick dry, with the unit tilted and wet you shouldn't be getting a red glow.
 

williebb123

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i maybe wrong but it seems you are getting hot spots one way to find out if you are using a dna20 or something that can give you an ohm reading try this remove your wick and take an ohm reading then replace your wick you should get the same reading if you get a bad vape read the ohm again on a new wick you may get hotspots several times during the first tank also if you have scorched your wick so much as the start it maybe possible you have built up a crust on the wick which may keep it from wicking good luck on getting it working feel free to pm me if you need any further help
 

vapdivrr

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personally I would switch to a slightly thicker gauge wire. 32g is very flimsy and expands a lot when heated and then cooled. you may have an initially good coil but after some vaping this coil can get tweeked and then a hot spot will occur. the only way to get a really good coil is to wrap it on the wick and before adding juice pulse it, let it glow to make sure no coils are hotter then others. do this on low voltage initially. if this coil looks good and all coils heat up at the same time and all glow equally then up the voltage a little more. continue this slowly until you move up to the voltage you ultimately vape at. only once it can do all of this dry with no issues, that's when you add juice to the tank. now after saying all this it is still possible that the coil can tweak and still produce a hot spot, this is why I prefere a thicker gauge wire because imo, it doesn't move as much
 

williebb123

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personally I would switch to a slightly thicker gauge wire. 32g is very flimsy and expands a lot when heated and then cooled. you may have an initially good coil but after some vaping this coil can get tweeked and then a hot spot will occur. the only way to get a really good coil is to wrap it on the wick and before adding juice pulse it, let it glow to make sure no coils are hotter then others. do this on low voltage initially. if this coil looks good and all coils heat up at the same time and all glow equally then up the voltage a little more. continue this slowly until you move up to the voltage you ultimately vape at. only once it can do all of this dry with no issues, that's when you add juice to the tank. now after saying all this it is still possible that the coil can tweak and still produce a hot spot, this is why I prefere a thicker gauge wire because imo, it doesn't move as much

thats a good point im with you on using a thicker gage i almost always use 28ga
and pretorch and some times after pulsing i have to resnug the top coil cause it will stretch sometimes
 
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