Sub-ohm on a regulated device?

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Spizzel

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So I've been building my own coils for a short period of time and I'm looking to better understand how my coils can affect my vaping experience, specifically varying ohms and wattage's.

I've been building mainly only one coil as I'm still trying to better understand the basics of coils and more importantly wicking. Ofc all I hear these days is how sub ohming is the best and with all the sub ohm devices I feel like I may be missing out on something if I'm not at .5 or below.

The coil I've been wrapping is a 28g .9 ohm single coil. If I were to go lower, how does this affect my vape on a regulated device? Unless I'm missing something, only the heat flux and quickness to heat would be affected right by lower resistance (given a set wattage)?
 

Robert Cromwell

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Most find that .5 to 1.5 ohm coils work fine for all their vaping needs/wants. Those going lower just like to recharge batteries?

Sub ohming works fine on regulated devices. Just make sure that your regulated device will handle the resistance coil you choose to use. NOt all regulated devices are created equal.
 

IXIShogunR1

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for my VW setups i normally do a dual coil .6 ohm build
26ga 11 wraps 2.4 mm ID coils, and i run it at 50w and it works amazing
lots of vapor, great surface area

if i do a signal coil setup its normally around 1.2-.4 ohms, but i prefer the dual more

now on my mechs to get the same kind of experience i have to do a .2-3 ohm build normally
i've been playing around with 20ga for those builds and it seems to work out pretty good

it all comes down to the kind of experience you want and your hardware really

i like thick clouds so i build for that in mind. i also like a cool/light warm vape
when i use the steam calculator for building on my VW mods i check heat flux for the watts i want to run
and i try to keep it at about 180-220

do you need to sub ohm with VW/VV, no not at all you can build higher ohm setups that work just as good as the lower ohm ones
 

roxynoodle

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I don't necessarily find I need to subohm regulated. With a dual or tri coil setup, its hard not to, but with a single coil, I feel I get a better vape using more wraps and having the ability to vape higher than 4.2v.

I have my Aga t7 built to 0.9 ohm even though its dual coil, and I run it around 4.5v. I have several single coil builds well above 1 ohm, but again running 4.5-4.7v. Now on a mech, to get the same vape, I seem to want those same attys between 0.6-0.8 ohm.
 

sonicbomb

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A brief potted history. When there were no decent regulated mods, those who wanted more vapor would use mechanical mods and sub-ohm builds. Because the voltage was fixed at 4.2 volts maximum, the lower the resistance of the coil, the more amps it will pull and the hotter it will get and (hopefully) the more vapor it will produce.
Then high power regulated mods came out allowing a person to use +ohm coils and push as much wattage at the coil as was required to produce the vapor required. At the end of the day apart from all the other factors involved in a good build, the combination of heat and lots of surface area is what will probably produce the biggest clouds should that be your remit. Some people also prefer regulated mods for their safety elements, flat power delivery and battery life compared to a mech mod.
Mech mods still have a lot going for them in terms of aesthetics and their compact size. For example (because you would be playing very loose and fast with battery safety) a 0.12 ohm build will be producing around 150W, and depending on atty and mod could be the size of a large cigarette lighter. My every day vape is a copper SMPL mech with a 0.6ohm dual coil which I get a really super vape and about 5-6 hours vaping out of before I change out the battery. I also use a regulated mod with a 1.2ohm tank at around 25 watts.

To answer part of your question directly, going to a lower ohm build will mean a hotter vape, drain your battery faster and eat more juice. Give it a try, wire and cotton are cheap.
 

sonicbomb

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Put much more accurately by Mr Baditude

I posted this in another thread recently:

Pro's for a Mechanical APV:

Ability to sub-ohm. Early regulated devices were not designed to sub-ohm; recently the higher wattage regulated APV's can vape sub-ohm, but with all of that power the same effect can be obtained with normal resistance coils.

Durability and longevity. With no internal electronics to fail, a mech is considered to be a more durable choice over a regulated APV.

Aesthetics. Many prefer the simple and elegant appearance of a mechanical.

Simplicity. A mechanical is simply a glorified battery holder, fire button, and 510 connector.​

Cons for a mechanical APV:

No processor protection circuitry. This feature protects against many short circuits, reverse battery protection, over-heating, over-discharging the battery, etc. Without this feature, YOU THE USER must be constantly aware of potential dangers of short circuits. The vast majority of mechanical mods use a bottom-firing switch; IMO these may result in a potential auto-firing event if the APV is set down on its bottom or placed in a pocket. Some of these have a locking mechanism to prevent auto-firing, but who locks their fire switch each and every time they stop vaping?

The quality of the vaping experience will gradually and progressively decline over the course of the battery used between charges.

The only way to change the vaping experience is to change the atomizer (coil) resistance (ohms).​

Pro's for Regulated APV's:

Protection circuitry against short circuits.

Power regulation. You can increase or decrease the voltage or wattage to suit your vaping preference. It will also keep your chosen power output constant regardless of the charge on the battery.

Built-in voltage and resistance meters.

Some regulated mods use a built-in, rechargeable (non-removeable) battery using a common USB charging cable.​

Cons of regulated APV:

Often not as durable as a mechanical mod, because of the internal electrical components.

Until the advent of the more recent high wattage APV's, they could not power sub-ohm.

Aesthetics. Often not as physically attractive as many of the finer mechanical mods.​

_____________________

I use both a regulated tube mod and a mechanical tube mod, on a daily basis. I like both, for different reasons. I'm not particularly a fan of the box mods.
 
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SissySpike

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for RTAs I run around around .5 at around 20 to 30 watts depending on the juice ratio Im uesing, In a dripper i mostly run dual coils between .3 and .2 at around 40 watts , But thats depending on the tank or dipper. You have to keep in mind someone designed it pretty much on how they like to vape. You can modify it to have more air or with a tank more air and juice. these subtle changes can have big results in flavor and vapor. Coil and temp are just part of the equation. the trick is finding out what you like best.
finding a tank and drippier that are close to what you like and tweaking it to whats perfect for you. Or you can do what most do and just be happy with off the shelf buy consumables and have ok vape and flavorwith out all of the fuss.
 

mizunoboy

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You find your own preference and normally stick with it,I've just started building single,parallel coils(4-3 wrap)24g and can keep it fired a bit longer but I am forever trying different set ups which make things all the more exciting,learning ways that others build and trying them out,this is the beauty about vaping you can never get bored of it!Up the Vapors! :rickroll:
 

Wolfenstark

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I'm most the time anywhere from 0.3 - 1.5 Ω.
Sub ohm can be ok if you like it and 1.8Ω can be ok if you like it.
Is sub ohm any better ,,, No its like say loud rock music , some people like it and to others its just noise.
Most the sub ohm I do is on dual coil attys and thats because I then get an amount of wraps I like.
Say 26g 3mm dual coil 8wraps get 0.6Ω. If I wanted that dual coil to be 1.2 I would need 17 wraps.
The watts you use is just whats comfortable for you on the atty and build your using.
Generally the lower the resistance the higher the watts people will use but not all atty are the same.
My goblin is at 0.3Ω atm and 30 watts. A dripper with the same build I may find good at 50watts.
Subtank I have at 0.9Ω and 20watts Lemo I had at 1.2Ω and 20 watts.
 

edyle

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Oct 23, 2013
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So I've been building my own coils for a short period of time and I'm looking to better understand how my coils can affect my vaping experience, specifically varying ohms and wattage's.

I've been building mainly only one coil as I'm still trying to better understand the basics of coils and more importantly wicking. Ofc all I hear these days is how sub ohming is the best and with all the sub ohm devices I feel like I may be missing out on something if I'm not at .5 or below.

The coil I've been wrapping is a 28g .9 ohm single coil. If I were to go lower, how does this affect my vape on a regulated device? Unless I'm missing something, only the heat flux and quickness to heat would be affected right by lower resistance (given a set wattage)?

You have been wrapping a 28 gauge 0.9 single coil.
If by 'go lower' you mean using less wraps, they for a set wattage, you will get higher heat flux and faster heatup; basically a hotter vape.

If you add a second 28 gauge 0.9 ohm coil you will end up with a 0.45 ohm dual coil, requiring twice as much power. It will operate at the same voltage as the single coil, use twice as much power, and produce twice as much fog.


Current might be a more intuitive way of thinking about it.
gauge ----- current (Amps) for 200mW/mm2
34 ----- 1.2
32 ----- 1.7
30 ----- 2.4
28 ----- 3
26 ----- 5
24 ----- 7
22 ----- 10
20 ----- 13
Kanthal A1
gauge ----- watt per ohm (per coil) for 200mW/mm2
34 ----- 1.4
32 ----- 3
30 ----- 6
28 ----- 10
26 ----- 23
24 ----- 45
22 ----- 91
20 ----- 182
Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
 

Ryedan

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I've been building mainly only one coil as I'm still trying to better understand the basics of coils and more importantly wicking. Ofc all I hear these days is how sub ohming is the best and with all the sub ohm devices I feel like I may be missing out on something if I'm not at .5 or below.

The coil I've been wrapping is a 28g .9 ohm single coil. If I were to go lower, how does this affect my vape on a regulated device? Unless I'm missing something, only the heat flux and quickness to heat would be affected right by lower resistance (given a set wattage)?

You've got it :). The higher the heat flux the warmer the vape. The higher the heat capacity the more joules you'll have to put in there to get the coil hot enough to start vaping which means a high HC setup running high power can still heat up fast.

I also find flavor changes with HF change, but that's really subjective.

Battery life depends almost completely on watts set, not resistance. Chips will have different efficiency depending on what voltage they output at which will make a bit of difference to battery life on a charge.
 

Spizzel

Senior Member
Nov 17, 2014
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21
Boston
You have been wrapping a 28 gauge 0.9 single coil.
If by 'go lower' you mean using less wraps, they for a set wattage, you will get higher heat flux and faster heatup; basically a hotter vape.

If you add a second 28 gauge 0.9 ohm coil you will end up with a 0.45 ohm dual coil, requiring twice as much power. It will operate at the same voltage as the single coil, use twice as much power, and produce twice as much fog.

This is due to only it being a dual coil though right? Not because of the ohms or heat?
 

Spizzel

Senior Member
Nov 17, 2014
101
21
Boston
2 coils can produce twice as much fog as one coil.
You can look at it from an ohms perspective also, but I'm just trying to relate common sense.

Gotcha, I understand dual coils will cut the ohms in half of a same built single coil. Changing the ohms though on a single coil, with the same wire, inner diameter wont increase fog though?

I guess I'm struggling to understand the affect of ohms on my vape experience. In my head I'm looking at the resistance of a coil (single coil) only as a method to affect the heat produced of a coil and how quickly it gets to said temperature.

I understand that sizes of wire and ID of coils can affect the surface are, which I would think would have a larger affect on your vape than your resistance where the resistance would mainly affect temps.
 

Thrasher

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With todays 50+ watt mods sub ohm coils are really out of place on a regulated.

About the only reason to end up with a sub ohm setup is becuase you used a lot of wraps of low gauge wire and just cant wrap a coil big enough to bring the resistance back up. Then the resistance is knocked down even further by going dual coil. And then it becomes mandatory to brute force all that wire with a 100 watt mod to get it to work correctly.

Make no mistake no one is pushing a simple 4/5 wrap 28 g .4 ohm coil with 60 watts becuase it will be going nuclear on a mech with as little as 20-30 watts.
 

edyle

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Gotcha, I understand dual coils will cut the ohms in half of a same built single coil. Changing the ohms though on a single coil, with the same wire, inner diameter wont increase fog though?

I guess I'm struggling to understand the affect of ohms on my vape experience. In my head I'm looking at the resistance of a coil (single coil) only as a method to affect the heat produced of a coil and how quickly it gets to said temperature.

I understand that sizes of wire and ID of coils can affect the surface are, which I would think would have a larger affect on your vape than your resistance where the resistance would mainly affect temps.

Changing the ohms though on a single coil, with the same wire, inner diameter wont increase fog though?
The same wire, same inner diameter with more wraps will need more volts and give more fog.
 
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