That does look sexy, I'm using Mobile site haven't figured out how to do pics but I have the Lemo 2 on a gold mvp 3 pro whit a glass drip tip that has a gold base...so you'll have to picture that
sub ohm tank battle
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I'm gonna get one as soon as I run out of coils, it's only like 7 or 8 bucks, much cheaper than a pack of coils
I have one in the shopping cart now. But was thinking I have 2 minis
And Baaadjustin what part of Mo you at I am just north of Jefferson city
And Baaadjustin what part of Mo you at I am just north of Jefferson city
I have 4 subtanks, all perfect in every way. No leaks, maybe occasionally through the drip tip, but not a problem ever.
I ordered a 5 pack of the new style RBA decks for the STM off of ebay and it took a month to get them but they are quality decks.
Me either, so many new tanks or little innovation, if I get a new tank it's gonna have to blow everything I have outta the water
I'm making myself use all my coils 1st then use my ego one mega until all those coils are gone before I get it.....I say that now but I bet I'll order one in the next few days
I wish the Full size Subtank , not the plus, had the ease of build the Mini has... that would be the best tank ever. Mini flavor is IMHO just Meh...
Yeah I actually have the original mini, mini v2, and the black mini. Also have the original nano. I use them all equally.
Are you talking about the original subtank? If so, I've got 2 of em and found them to be pretty finicky compared to the subtank plus and mini. Having only 4 or so ml per tank when using the rebuildable guy didn't help me like it either.
I was the same way when I first got my STM. Even bought a couple extra .5 ohm OCC coils in case one went out on me at work. Then I tried the RBA deck and was amazed at how easy it was to build on. The V2 decks didnt like much more than 70VG/30PG and at times had problems with that so I took my deck and with a drill bit the same size as the OCC coil side holes drilled a hole on each side of the RBA decks chamber as well as took a dremel cut off wheel and deepened and widened the bottom feed channels. Now I can run max VG with no problems at all and never a leak unless I forget it n the car and its laying on its side. heat will thin the juice and allow it to leak.
The new RBA decks I just got already have holes in them and dont screw on but has a screw that holds it on. I am not sure how well it will feed if it will feed at all when the juice gets below the level of the holes. It has an oring on the bottom so dont see how it can feed when its that low.
The 5 pack of the new style RBA decks I got off of Ebay dont have any juice channels. Like all Kanger subtank RBA decks I would strongly recommend that the bottom pin of the RBA be tightened or there will be resistance variances. I usually put a small screw driver thru the airholes and give it a little tweak.
this may be a little off topic but does anyone know of an easy way to convert the sub tank to a top fill tank? the current design can only be filled to the top of the center post leaving some tank capacity unused.with a top fill the tank would hold more juice and would never have to be removed from the mod
Supposedly Fasttech sells replacement hardware which turns the Subtank into a top fill tank. You should check on there.
Been a little more selective in my buying.........though I tend to buy 3-4 or more of anything I find I like. Most of my changes have been more to do with true changes in available product than simple modifications to another's design.
I really enjoyed learning the ins/outs of the Ithaka tanks and though complicated and a bit difficult to build they delivered a great Vape for their time.
Then came the Kayfun, which is pretty much the Design Base for this next level of Tanks. I actually own 7 and only rarely use one now.(My wife is now using them)
Next came my desire to venture into a more open tank that could handle Lower ohm builds and deliver a good vape with direct lung inhale capability.
Well, there are now a ton of those, each boosting their own special features, and many are want-a-be copycat Flops. A few are excellent at doing what I desired so my next specification was ease of build. Final criteria was price for features offered.
I have chosen and very much enjoy using a China version(4) of the Original Orchid design.
Excellent air flow
Super easy to build
4.5ml Capacity
Functions well with NI200 for TC(will be testing TI wire soon)
Low and easy Maintenance(most parts readily available)
Solid Build design
Cost: Under $11.00*
Now much of a war for me, I seem to have settled in a Neutral Country.
I really enjoyed learning the ins/outs of the Ithaka tanks and though complicated and a bit difficult to build they delivered a great Vape for their time.
Then came the Kayfun, which is pretty much the Design Base for this next level of Tanks. I actually own 7 and only rarely use one now.(My wife is now using them)
Next came my desire to venture into a more open tank that could handle Lower ohm builds and deliver a good vape with direct lung inhale capability.
Well, there are now a ton of those, each boosting their own special features, and many are want-a-be copycat Flops. A few are excellent at doing what I desired so my next specification was ease of build. Final criteria was price for features offered.
I have chosen and very much enjoy using a China version(4) of the Original Orchid design.
Excellent air flow
Super easy to build
4.5ml Capacity
Functions well with NI200 for TC(will be testing TI wire soon)
Low and easy Maintenance(most parts readily available)
Solid Build design
Cost: Under $11.00*
Now much of a war for me, I seem to have settled in a Neutral Country.
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