So if I have an ipv3li with two vtc5s in it, my amps would be the combination of both, so 60 amps? What's the lowest ohm I can go with that? Also what about a pair of Samsung inr 20a? I also purchased a pair of Basen 40a, are those any good? Basically I'm wondering how low I can go with each of these batteries because I want to use my smok tct tank at .15 ohms and hopefully I can fire that with the pair of samsungs. Thanks for your help in advance.
Sub ohm vaping/ battery question
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for safety consider that your total amperage would go up 50% by having 2 batteries vs 1. The reason is that the batteries do not drain evenly and you may overdrain one causing it to vent in an unpleasant way.
The IPV3li is a regulated mod. If the mod will fire the coil, you can use it. For .15 or lower, I really hope you're talking about Ni or Ti wire in TC mode, but never mind that. The VTC5s are good batteries, good for 20 amps. The 30 amps alleged rating is a misnomer. Even Sony doesn't claim it. Most two-battery regulated mods use their batteries in series, and thus the amp loading is limited to that of a single battery. For that mod I would recommend Sony VTC4s. Those are also nominal 20 amp batteries but, in independent bench tests conducted by our very own @Mooch they can be safely used to 30 amps without dangerous overheating. I have never heard of your Basen batteries, but I doubt they're actually rated at 40A CDR. That might be a pulse rating. Or it could be completely fallicious, mere advertising. I would bet they are re-wrap batteries, meaning there is no way of knowing what cell is actually under the skin. If you use them at all-- I personally would not-- use them with care and check them for heat up frequently above 40 watts or so.
The ipv3li is a regulated APV using the yihi sx330-v3sl chip inside which has an output amp limit of 45a.
Input amp / current of 1.3a minimum, 10a typical, 40a maximum.
Standard atomizer / kanthal of .1Ω minimum, 1.5Ω typical, 3Ω maximum.
Joules mode/TC resistance .12Ω minimum, .55Ω typical, 1Ω maximum.
The specs don't make much sense or seem accurate to me, but, that's fairly usual when it comes to yihi.
Regulated APV's have built in protection circuitry such as, input & output amp limits, low resistance, output short, reverse polarity, battery low voltage, chip overheat protection.
Supposedly they won't fire in an unsafe condition.
The user should chose the right batteries for the job.
With a 40a maximum input 2 20a batteries would leave no margin for error if something in the protection circuitry failed or didn't work as the specs claim.
Input amp / current of 1.3a minimum, 10a typical, 40a maximum.
Standard atomizer / kanthal of .1Ω minimum, 1.5Ω typical, 3Ω maximum.
Joules mode/TC resistance .12Ω minimum, .55Ω typical, 1Ω maximum.
The specs don't make much sense or seem accurate to me, but, that's fairly usual when it comes to yihi.
Regulated APV's have built in protection circuitry such as, input & output amp limits, low resistance, output short, reverse polarity, battery low voltage, chip overheat protection.
Supposedly they won't fire in an unsafe condition.
The user should chose the right batteries for the job.
With a 40a maximum input 2 20a batteries would leave no margin for error if something in the protection circuitry failed or didn't work as the specs claim.
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@Mooch, has tested several.
There are several independent sources that have tested most if not all batteries suitable for vaping use.
I know there is no such thing as any 18650 that has more than an actual (not marketing hype) 30a continuous discharge rate.
If your using a regulated APV, use batteries that meet or exceed the manufactures (chip or device) recommendation.
There are several independent sources that have tested most if not all batteries suitable for vaping use.
I know there is no such thing as any 18650 that has more than an actual (not marketing hype) 30a continuous discharge rate.
If your using a regulated APV, use batteries that meet or exceed the manufactures (chip or device) recommendation.
Yes. You bench test them. You charge them up to full charge, apply a continuous load of some value, and measure the output voltage and battery temperature until it is discharged. Then you charge it again and repeat the test using a higher load factor and keep that up until it either exceeds a safe temperature or fails.
Most regulated mods have a high temp limit cutout. But with a few it is ridiculously hot.
#1. VTC5 batteries are only 20A batteries.
#2. The IPV3 is a SERIES mod. When batteries are run in a series you do NOT double your amps. The power from battery 2 runs through battery 1, so you only have the amperage that battery 1 can provide. If you overload battery 1 then you're overloading that battery, and it doesn't matter if you have 1 or 10 batteries lined up in a series behind it.
#3. With a 20A continuous drain battery the absolute lowest you can safely go depends on how much power you're running to that coil. You can reduce amp drain by reducing the power applied. So....
0.38 @ 150W
0.25 @ 100W
0.2 @ 80W
0.15 @ 60W
0.1 @ 40W
All of those builds and settings will draw the full 20A from the battery. Going lower ohm or higher wattage will exceed the 20A drain.
BE AWARE THAT RUNNING A 20A BATTERY AT THE FULL 20A WILL DAMAGE THE BATTERY AND REDUCE IT'S LIFESPAN.
#2. The IPV3 is a SERIES mod. When batteries are run in a series you do NOT double your amps. The power from battery 2 runs through battery 1, so you only have the amperage that battery 1 can provide. If you overload battery 1 then you're overloading that battery, and it doesn't matter if you have 1 or 10 batteries lined up in a series behind it.
#3. With a 20A continuous drain battery the absolute lowest you can safely go depends on how much power you're running to that coil. You can reduce amp drain by reducing the power applied. So....
0.38 @ 150W
0.25 @ 100W
0.2 @ 80W
0.15 @ 60W
0.1 @ 40W
All of those builds and settings will draw the full 20A from the battery. Going lower ohm or higher wattage will exceed the 20A drain.
BE AWARE THAT RUNNING A 20A BATTERY AT THE FULL 20A WILL DAMAGE THE BATTERY AND REDUCE IT'S LIFESPAN.
I'd be more comfortable leaving 20% as headroom for saftey - 38w /.15Ω = 16 amps.
10% saftey margin - 48.5w / .15Ω = 18a.
10% saftey margin - 48.5w / .15Ω = 18a.
Until you understand what you are doing a lot better I would stay above 0.5 ohms. Please don't become a statistic.
Well then I can't use my smok tct tank... I would like someone to explain all of this to me so I can vape that low
Just remember this!
In a regulated mod used at any specific resistance/wattage, as the battery charge depletes, the amperage has to go up to maintain the desired power level.
So think about what the battery by itself has to do instead of just what the mod is doing.
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That is a temp control tank not a subohm tank. .15ohms in TC mode is not considered "subohm".
For that tank in TC mode I would still stay under 100W.
The Chinese are making equipment that will draw more energy from the battery than the battery will safely give. This is a very bizarre time to be a new vaper.
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Oh dear. Ok, for temp control wire and in temp control mode on the mod, the resistances can be safely very low, on the order of the .15 you are discussing. I have a TC build in a Lemo 2 right now on my Snow Wolf at .11, and the mod will fire down to .05 ohms. This is not an issue because in TC mode the mod measures the wire temperature and backs off the power to prevent overheating, thus saving your juice, wick and wire from burning and maintaining a good safety margin. However, .15 is, IMHO, far too low a build using regular Kanthal wire in variable wattage mode because the mod isn't watching to keep things from getting too hot. Most of them-- I dunno about the IPV3li-- have an over-temp and over-current limiter built in, but I am not sure how much I'd trust them. When people are telling you not to go below .5-- good advice, that-- they mean with regular Kanthal resistance wires. It's borderline unsafe, for one thing, and completely unnecessary with a regulated mod anyway as the atty resistance no longer controls power levels as they did with the Old Skool mechanical mods. Using TC wire in TC mode, .15 is perfectly OK, and will be fine using your Smok TCT.
I don't consider a 0.1 ohm coil safe on ANYTHING (not even with TC) for one simple reason. You can't measure 0.1 ohms with anything less than a micro ohm meter. (mine cost about 3500 bucks) AND, how in the hell are you going to put a $3500 ohm meter in a $200 mod!?! You're fooling yourself if you think a 50 cent chip can measure that low a resistance accurately. Just the solder joints for that chip set can equal +I- 0.1 ohm.
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