Sub-Ohm Vid!

[woody55]

Hey Gang!
I am going to be doing a video on the sense Herakles sub-ohm tank. Just wanted to put my two-cents into the mix of things on it. Stay tuned, should be up in next day or so!

 

[keelalagirl55]

Woohoo!!! Another Woody Vid! ♥♥

 

[woody55]

Well, I will get one up but I am going to have to get a bigger mod to really strut it's ability. I don't have one over 30w so I will be getting a 50-100w one soon so I can do the video on the Herakles. 30w just does not do it justice.

 

[Magius]

I really don't get this sub-ohm stuff, especially combined with these high wattage devices.
Using 2.2 ohm protank heads w/ an iStick @ 3.7V I get a reading of 5.5 watts, and still I occasionally get a burnt hit.
Seems to me <1 ohm with 30 Watts would deliver ash.

 

[Teach]

I was skeptical at first too, but until you try subohm it won't make sense. You don't really need to get wrapped up in the math to enjoy it (UNLESS you roll your own.) Many vapers get hung up on the numbers and forget to just find the sweet spot and vape.

Yes, you can get dry hits on the protank coils, but that sounds like your wicking may not be up to your vaping needs. Different strokes....

 

[Magius]

I was skeptical at first too, but until you try subohm it won't make sense. You don't really need to get wrapped up in the math to enjoy it (UNLESS you roll your own.) Many vapers get hung up on the numbers and forget to just find the sweet spot and vape.

Yes, you can get dry hits on the protank coils, but that sounds like your wicking may not be up to your vaping needs. Different strokes....

Running 2.2 Ohm heads (actually 2.0-2.4) @ 3.7V (5.5 - 6.5 W) does fine for most of my flavors. However, 2 of my juices consistently get scorched at those settings.
For those juices I go down to 3.3V (~5.1W) which improves the vapor quite a bit. I considered a wicking problem even though it only happens with these 2 juices. I added two 1mm flavor wicks to the heads, but that didn't help much.

As to the math, according to Gotvapes' own data base:

Standard coil resistance is 2.2-2.4ohms, that is the most common used.
Variable voltage and variable wattage are the big thing now so that people
can customize their vaping experience.
These are the suggested max levels by one of the top manufacturers:
1.7-1.9ohms 3.1v-3.4v(max)
2.1-2.3ohms 3.5v-3.8v(max)
2.4-2.6ohms 3.9v-4.2v(max)
2.6-3.0ohms 4.3v-4.7v(max)
These are the maximum voltages per Kanger and Vision that those resistances
should be run at. In some cases depending on the juice you use you will run
significantly lower.
When you run in variable wattage mode that is completely different. In power
mode the onboard electronics measure the resistance of the coil and by using
a specific formula will set the voltage according to the wattage you want to
vape at. Most people vape between 5.5-7.0 watts.

Given those numbers, which are the ranges I happen to fall into, running 0.5 Ohms at 30V seems extremely excessive.

 

[Teach]

What is the VG/PG percentage on your juice? If those last 2 juices are higher VG than the others I'd say you're wicking slow. Also, do they appear to be thicker? You're doing the right thing... trying options. Might try adding a little straigh PG or even some water (enough to fill a tank) to see what happens - just not enough to kill the flavor.

 

[Magius]

PG80% VG20% it's not thick at all.
I'm prone to vaper's tongue, and if I stick with a flavor for an extended period I stop tasting it. I rotate 8 to 10 flavors throughout the week to avoid that. All of them are PG80% VG20%, but only two have the scorching issue, and it happens even with fresh coil heads. Turning down the voltage helps, which is really the point. I appreciate your input, but I'm not trying to fix my taste issue. I'm trying to understand the sub-ohm concept.

If nomial vaping settingas are 2.2 to 2.4 Ohms, 3.4 to 3.7 Volts, and 5.5 to 7 Watts, and if the ranges provided by Kanger and Vision are valid, what's the point of pushing 30 Watts through a 1.0 Ohm or less atty?
3.7 volts / 2.2 Ohms = 1.6 Amps, which is reasonable at about 6 Watts. Seems to me the amps produced by 30 Watts through a 1.0 Ohm coil would scorch juice and fry coils.

 

[Teach]

I've used a lot of the Kanger bottom coils (not subohm) and using straight VG I did suffer from dry hits at times. The only resolution I found was to switch the wick to rayon to get better wicking.

If you try subohm, stick to subohm hardware. Really, the only way you'll find out if you like it is to try it - I held out for a long time. If you have any local vape friends, try to borrow one to see how it feels. If not, try a small setup around 40w to try it out. Just keep an eye out for a good price on a small kit on sale or check the classifieds (you'll need to get verified for that.) There are quite a few new models coming out with VV/VW/TC. If you do decide to try one, look also for one with temp. control - you might as well kill two birds with one stone and try that too (it's worth it.) The only problem I've found with subohm is that once I tried it, I didn't want to go back.

You will need to be verified to go through the classies or co-ops though.

 

[VapingTurtle]

However, 2 of my juices consistently get scorched at those settings.

Sweet flavors?
Sweeteners can scorch if you look at them the wrong way.

I appreciate your input, but I'm not trying to fix my taste issue. I'm trying to understand the sub-ohm concept.

Sub-ohm started was started in order to get more heat and vapor out of fixed voltage mechanical mods. It carried over from there.

If nomial vaping settingas are 2.2 to 2.4 Ohms, 3.4 to 3.7 Volts, and 5.5 to 7 Watts, and if the ranges provided by Kanger and Vision are valid, what's the point of pushing 30 Watts through a 1.0 Ohm or less atty?

Those recommendations are long outdated, and based on older technology. Better wicking and airflow techniques have changed things immensely.