Sub-Ohm: What's the point?

[RamShot Rowdy]

I know when I first started vaping a lot of people were looking for more vapor and an overall stronger vape. Back then we were foolishly stacking unprotected lithium ion batteries to get six volts, as most attys were in the 2.2 to 3 Ohm range. Finally low resistance attys came along in the 1.5 Ohm area, and then early VV devices began to appear.

So my question is, in this day and age, what's the point of sub-ohming? There are so many devices that can deliver 20, 30, 40, or even a 100 plus watts of power. So why risk running extremely low resistance coils on a mech mod? Also, what is the point, if there is one, of running a sub-ohm coil on a regulated device that can deliver a lot of power on a 1+ ohm coil?

I understand sub-ohming can let mech mods achieve watts like many regulated devices, but without many of the built in safety features. Is there a difference between a 0.4 Ohm coil on a mech mod vs a 1.5 ohm on a DNA device set to 40 watts?

Thanks.

 

[Noble Gas]

I only use mechanical mods and subohm coils because I can't possibly afford to buy one of those high wattage regulated mods you mentioned. I generally build my dual coil RDA's to around 0.6 ohms and use a 30 amp battery, which leaves me plenty of safe wiggle room while providing a very satisfying vape. Why spend a hundred or two hundred bucks on a device when I can get a mod, atty, battery and a great vape for less than half that price? Plus, I can replace the battery when it dies instead of having to buy a whole new mod or pay a ridiculous 'battery replacement fee'. Super cheap, very safe, and no cigarettes. Also, those regulated mods have intricate electronics which tend to fail and break, which can leave one with no mod and a hundred dollar hole in their wallet. Mechanicals are simple, reliable, effective and don't become useless paperweights if you drop them.

 

[Skunk!]

I got into mechanical mods and sub ohm because there was no other options at the time with the same capability. Most regulated devices topped out at 15 watts. I tried my doge atty built at .2 on my friends ipv2 at 60 watts and now I am saving up to buy a regulated box mod. I like the safety of regulated with the power of a mechanical that they deliver.

 

[eratikmind]

Choices and individual preferences. It's all about choices and individual preferences, liken to everything else in life.

Different means to a common end.

 

[vapero]

I got into mechanical mods and sub ohm because there was no other options at the time with the same capability. Most regulated devices topped out at 15 watts. I tried my doge atty built at .2 on my friends ipv2 at 60 watts and now I am saving up to buy a regulated box mod. I like the safety of regulated with the power of a mechanical that they deliver.

I too started on mechs when the regulateds topped at 15w and I still prefer them for their price, size, simplicity and reliability.

it's true that you can achieve similar results from a modern regulated devise as a mech but they still don't compete in the price and size aspect and both of those are important to me. I prefer a smaller profile and don't like boxes so sub-ohm is my only alternative (but I can't complain )

 

[Froth]

So my question is, in this day and age, what's the point of sub-ohming? There are so many devices that can deliver 20, 30, 40, or even a 100 plus watts of power. So why risk running extremely low resistance coils on a mech mod? Also, what is the point, if there is one, of running a sub-ohm coil on a regulated device that can deliver a lot of power on a 1+ ohm coil?

Build me a "modern electronic" VV/VW mod that is no taller than 80mm, 22mm in diameter, has at least 2500mah and can output over 100W and I will gladly use it until the circuitry dies, then I will switch back to my mechanical mod. You simply CANNOT pack more power into a smaller package than with a mechanical mod, no box on the market can compete with one for power versus size.

Form factor is also a BIG DEAL, I don't care how the box performs because I don't want to be holding a box in my hands to vape with nor do I want to pocket a box mod or deal with having to lock/unlock it/looking at the screen in sunlight/worry about the chip dying every single day...nope, not for me.

Edit: For what it's worth, I vape at over 100W every single day with mech mods and have been doing so for months on end, no life threatening instances of anything have happened in that time. My every day build is .15 and I do have some devices built to .12 and lower. I enjoy the flavor the large amount of surface area my coils give me and working with 22GA wire is MUCH MUCH easier than stupid 28GA or smaller.

 

[RamShot Rowdy]

Thanks everyone, I was just curious, I appreciate the explanation.

 

[edyle]

I know when I first started vaping a lot of people were looking for more vapor and an overall stronger vape. Back then we were foolishly stacking unprotected lithium ion batteries to get six volts, as most attys were in the 2.2 to 3 Ohm range. Finally low resistance attys came along in the 1.5 Ohm area, and then early VV devices began to appear.

So my question is, in this day and age, what's the point of sub-ohming? There are so many devices that can deliver 20, 30, 40, or even a 100 plus watts of power. So why risk running extremely low resistance coils on a mech mod? Also, what is the point, if there is one, of running a sub-ohm coil on a regulated device that can deliver a lot of power on a 1+ ohm coil?

I understand sub-ohming can let mech mods achieve watts like many regulated devices, but without many of the built in safety features. Is there a difference between a 0.4 Ohm coil on a mech mod vs a 1.5 ohm on a DNA device set to 40 watts?

Thanks.

The high powered boxes are still pretty new and it will take some time for usage to pick up;

the missing link is that there are currently no high powered kick modules;

 

[Plooom]

I honestly love my mechanical mods. I like the feel in my hand. I follow ohms law to a T and Im fine. However if I had the funds for a 100 Watt box mod I would totally jump on board.

 

[johndoe1027]

I know when I first started vaping a lot of people were looking for more vapor and an overall stronger vape. Back then we were foolishly stacking unprotected lithium ion batteries to get six volts, as most attys were in the 2.2 to 3 Ohm range. Finally low resistance attys came along in the 1.5 Ohm area, and then early VV devices began to appear.

So my question is, in this day and age, what's the point of sub-ohming? There are so many devices that can deliver 20, 30, 40, or even a 100 plus watts of power. So why risk running extremely low resistance coils on a mech mod? Also, what is the point, if there is one, of running a sub-ohm coil on a regulated device that can deliver a lot of power on a 1+ ohm coil?

I understand sub-ohming can let mech mods achieve watts like many regulated devices, but without many of the built in safety features. Is there a difference between a 0.4 Ohm coil on a mech mod vs a 1.5 ohm on a DNA device set to 40 watts?

Thanks.

I've been sub-ohming (0.18 and lower) on mechs for a few months now. Got an IPV3 just 2 weeks ago. I have yet to get the same lung busting clouds out of the IPV3 as I do on my mechs (with any kind of comparable wattage). Do I love the IPV3? YES. Does it hit harder? No. Doesn't matter what resistance the coils are on the IPV3 (I've tried about 7 so far from 0.16 to 0.45 ohms). Personally, I love the simplicity of the mech. I also love the adjustability and battery life of the regulated mod but, as Froth mentioned, carrying a mech is much easier. Also, to get the max wattage out of the IPV3 I need to have 0.3 ohm coils. Still sub-ohming. I find that higher ohm coils at higher wattages just create more heat in the atty without the clouds to match. Just my 2 cents.

To answer the question, the point is... clouds.

ETA - Your boston is the 2nd cutest dog in the world. Followed, of course, by our boston. ;-) I wanna hug that face!

 

[johndoe1027]

The high powered boxes are still pretty new and it will take some time for usage to pick up;

the missing link is that there are currently no high powered kick modules;

I would jump on a 100W kick in a heartbeat. I'm afraid it would be the size on a 18350 though... That would be one crazy long tube!

 

[Neolithium]

I love my Sigelei 100W. However I still really appreciate the beauty of a mechanical mod. My Stingray looks sexy with an RDA on it, plus its slightly easier to carry that around with me - downside is the power drop to the coils as you use it. Chances are if I had a vaporshark I'd never touch my mechs again though because of the box mod control + battery life.

 

[CptJYossarian]

I find that higher ohm coils at higher wattages just create more heat in the atty without the clouds to match.

Something is being done wrong then. Clouds = vapor + airflow; vapor = juice + heat; and juice is directly connected to your wicking.

Build a 0.32 ohm coil using 22 gauge (yes, a lot of wraps) and wick it with Japanese cotton or cotton bacon. Use it on your airiest RDA and I guarantee you you'll be blown away by the clouds you get. At that point, the IPV3 should be putting out ~7.5 volts with significantly less voltage drop and almost no battery sag when compared to a mech.





Back to mechs vs. regulated boxes. Regulated boxes provide a lot of useful features such as safety and fine tuning your settings, as well as excellent battery life configurations (at least with step down boxes).

Mechs are just straightforward and simple. They also look really nice imo, whereas a lot of boxes are just...clunky. While things like the vaporshark are sleek as hell they don't provide enough power for me.

Ultimately, the looks and size are what does it for me to mostly stick to mechs. It is all personal preference at the end of the day.

 

[johndoe1027]

Something is being done wrong then. Clouds = vapor + airflow; vapor = juice + heat; and juice is directly connected to your wicking.

Build a 0.32 ohm coil using 22 gauge (yes, a lot of wraps) and wick it with Japanese cotton or cotton bacon. Use it on your airiest RDA and I guarantee you you'll be blown away by the clouds you get. At that point, the IPV3 should be putting out ~7.5 volts with significantly less voltage drop and almost no battery sag when compared to a mech.

Maybe the organic cotton I've been using is the problem. The first IPV3 build I did was on a Mutation X. 9.5 wraps, 1/8" I.D. of 22ga Kanthal. I didn't think wick material would affect the heat produced by the atty. I'm fine with a hot vape but I worry about a plasma hot atty on my IPV3. That build chucked clouds but no more than my 0.3 ohm 23ga build set to less watts. Or my 0.45 ohm 24ga build set to 65W. I'll try it again with the Japanese cotton that should be in my mailbox on Wednesday. Thanks for the tips.

 

[Froth]

Maybe the organic cotton I've been using is the problem. The first IPV3 build I did was on a Mutation X. 9.5 wraps, 1/8" I.D. of 22ga Kanthal. I didn't think wick material would affect the heat produced by the atty. I'm fine with a hot vape but I worry about a plasma hot atty on my IPV3. That build chucked clouds but no more than my 0.3 ohm 23ga build set to less watts. Or my 0.45 ohm 24ga build set to 65W. I'll try it again with the Japanese cotton that should be in my mailbox on Wednesday. Thanks for the tips.

For what it's worth from my personal experiences it's more about finding the correct density of the wick material for that type of material in the coil that you're putting it in. Too loose can taste burnt, too tight can taste burnt/horrid especially with cotton. I'm a dedicated supersubohmer and I've tried basically every wick material out there with success but there are glaring differences between materials. I've used regular unbleached cotton balls, Japanese organic cotton, Natural Hemp Fiber and Rayon all with success with "hot" builds, my every day build is .12 to .15 ohms but I do have a few .06 to .10 built as well(they stay home). I currently use Rayon in everything because for my personal tastes...it's just better, by a lot. Rayon has a lot more room for error, you can really pull the wicks in tight with Rayon, even tighter than I was doing with Hemp fiber which surprised me but I soon learned that Rayon shrinks when it gets wet, unlike cotton which expands. Go figure.

 

[VHRB2014]

Why take a perfectly good engine block, fill it with concrete, top it with a blower, and feed it alcohol?

Because when its done right, its a thing of fire breathing beauty. Standing next to it, is a rush like pure adrenaline.

And its much cheaper then NASCAR.

Running 88 watts in a Cat on a Sentinel for 46 bucks, :?)

 

[SLIPPY_EEL]

Sorry, i havent got the time to read previous post's, baby' only let you have so much me time LoL.

i enjoyed 1+Ω coils for a good while and couldnt understand the whole sub ohm thing but when you do subohm you quickly realise you only need to press the power for a fraction of the time as a higher ohm coil at the same power so you end up saving

 

[Trypno]

l actually own two ProVaris before I jumped back into the mechanical market. I say "back into" because when I first got started I bought an sts clone and a protank. I knew nothing about vaping, but knew that mod wasn't doing it for me. I looked around, got an iTaste MVP, then jumped to ProVari. I love the ProVari because it was the first mod where I really felt satisfied with my vape.
But I needed a new hobby, so I bought a 30mm atty and a 26650 mech mod for building. I keep my ProVaris as backup now, I consider them 'old reliable'.
But anyway, I got back into mechs for rebuilding, and since I've got a huge atty, I gotta find good builds for it. So far I'm really liking sitting at .5ohms with a dual twisted 28ga kanthal build

 

[KGB7]

OP asked about sub-ohming vs none subohm and everyone started defending their Mech Mods like you were being attacked.

 

[drippaboi]

OP asked about sub-ohming vs none subohm and everyone started defending their Mech Mods like you were being attacked.

But the OP also asked:

... So why risk running extremely low resistance coils on a mech mod? ...

For me, mechs are just more fun. I like finding my RDAs' sweet spots and it changes based on what it's sitting on and which performance factors I'm looking to optimize. Regulated mods take some of that fun out of the equation. Just build whatever and blast it with as much power as you can handle at that particular time and you're set.

That said, my next MOD will either be an iPV3 or a Sigelei 150w because I'm curious how I might like long thin-wire coils with high resistance and tons of surface area. If all goes well I hope to have enough pennies saved to buy the next vaporflask (the only regulated device I've ever drooled over).

And remember, for those that do their homework and understand what it all means the risk of sub-ohming is minimized. I feel safer using my rigs than I do crossing the street.