Subtank OCC coil modding?
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Sorry but that sounds obsurd! They're made a certain way for a specific reason. If you tamper with the juice flow then you are prone to leaking and flooding. And like I said they're made the way they are to prevent such issues to occur.
I considered it but the housing is nickel plated brass and I don't want to expose the brass to the liquid, other than that it would be game on.
I'll give it a try with an old OCC coil head and see how it goes. I'll let you guys know.
I didn't think of the nickel plated , so ill watch out.
I didn't think of the nickel plated , so ill watch out.
I wouldn't recommend it but if you have a spare one you want to try it on go ahead. I would just be concerned about metal pieces being left over in the coil and the health concerns that come with that. I would think that it would work though, it wouldn't probably just mess up the juice wicking properly, they are designed the way they are for reason.
Correct, but they are made that way to be used at a certain wattage range. while i could see making them bigger could cause flooding while it sits, it would definitely raise the usable wattage range. id think you cloud eliminate all flooding with a bit more cotton
The design is a compromise. The thickness of juices varies massively, so drilling it out will probably optimise it for heavy vg juices. I'm sure it will work if you wick it right
I'd definitely say it would be worth a go. If you can't get it wicking well with the standard holes that is.
I'd definitely say it would be worth a go. If you can't get it wicking well with the standard holes that is.
Wouldn't bother with mine the juice holes on the OCC are good enough.
The rebuildable section many could find too small.
The rebuildable section many could find too small.
So here are the results.............
I drilled out the juice holes successfully, and incredibly easy. I didn't drill them out too much larger than the original holes as this is an experiment for me.
1. Larger holes(1.5x the original size) = better wicking. I used 80vg/20pg and it wicked really well with a .5 ohm coil rebuilt in there. With 50/50, seems as though it flooded if not fired for 1hr or so.
2. Prepping the housing was a pain in the .... Lots of little metal pieces everywhere, with tiny shavings appearing after multiple washes. I eventually did about 5 washes and used compressed air each time to eliminate every piece of metal.
3. Comparison- Stock OCC vs MODDED OCC.
Clouds and flavor all stayed about the same. What did improve was the wicking of higher VG juices, and able to handle about 5w-8w more power.
I will post pictures up as soon as possible.
I drilled out the juice holes successfully, and incredibly easy. I didn't drill them out too much larger than the original holes as this is an experiment for me.
1. Larger holes(1.5x the original size) = better wicking. I used 80vg/20pg and it wicked really well with a .5 ohm coil rebuilt in there. With 50/50, seems as though it flooded if not fired for 1hr or so.
2. Prepping the housing was a pain in the .... Lots of little metal pieces everywhere, with tiny shavings appearing after multiple washes. I eventually did about 5 washes and used compressed air each time to eliminate every piece of metal.
3. Comparison- Stock OCC vs MODDED OCC.
Clouds and flavor all stayed about the same. What did improve was the wicking of higher VG juices, and able to handle about 5w-8w more power.
I will post pictures up as soon as possible.
I was going to tinker with these this weekend. I've been playing with the subtank for a while now, and prefer the occ heads to the rba.
I've got plenty of spares so I was going to attempt 2 things: drill one out and install a larger coil on one, and drill another out and do a parallel dual coil ala the Smok X2 heads. I've already done successful rebuilds with kanthal as well as gplat. The stainless tasted slightly better but wattage couldn't rise. Hence the plan to do some drilling. I may also drill horizontal holes into the rba deck as I see that wicking better than trying to Dremel out the juice channels. I've never liked juice channel designs. They dry hit when the tank is full and leak when it's empty.
If the Arctic heads ever come down to a realistic price I'll get more of those but right now they wick fine. That clearo's problem is heat more than anything. It badly needs larger air holes or a better design on the coils so air hits the coil vs flowing through it. Not a pleasant vape above 60 watts and flavor never approaches the Subtank at any wattage.
I've got plenty of spares so I was going to attempt 2 things: drill one out and install a larger coil on one, and drill another out and do a parallel dual coil ala the Smok X2 heads. I've already done successful rebuilds with kanthal as well as gplat. The stainless tasted slightly better but wattage couldn't rise. Hence the plan to do some drilling. I may also drill horizontal holes into the rba deck as I see that wicking better than trying to Dremel out the juice channels. I've never liked juice channel designs. They dry hit when the tank is full and leak when it's empty.
If the Arctic heads ever come down to a realistic price I'll get more of those but right now they wick fine. That clearo's problem is heat more than anything. It badly needs larger air holes or a better design on the coils so air hits the coil vs flowing through it. Not a pleasant vape above 60 watts and flavor never approaches the Subtank at any wattage.
I bet people have tried many things. I heard people put 2 coils in those little square occ heads. I love them the way they are. The occ coil heads are easy to swap the cotton on each fill so that you always have healthy vaping with great taste. Its a genius piece of work. They are coming out with the subtank plus soon in april.
If you are having trouble with wicking thicker juice, you can try pushing the cotton in just a hair at the holes once it is saturated...should work, and is much easier than drilling...or even better, just use the RBA section if you have the mini.
They made the newer version different to the earlier rba deck on the subtank. The new rba on the subtank has fill holes similar to the subtank they made for vaporfi. you know the green version that has the vaporfi logo on it, which is completely the same. How obvious is that? Anywho. I actually like the rba on the subtank mini better. I'm gettin g larger vapor and less dry hits. The occ's are some of the best out there or is the best imo. The wholes are huge on both sides but for some reason i still find a dry hit eventually So i wouldn't see why not try somthing to make them better. The rda on the subtank never gets dry. With the new juice floe holes, it made it allot better. And drilling on the stainless steal might be a little difficult.
So, outcomes:
First I drilled a 3/32 hole opposite the cyclops airhole in the airflow ring. Yielded slight airflow increase but not a ton. Me thinks the choke point is the base of the heads.
First head> Drilled it out to 9/64. Wrapped a larger than stock (same 9/64) coil @ 8 wraps with nice spacing. 1.3 ohms. No real difference in wattage it can take and it tastes much like the 0.5 stock heads. Not worth the effort really.
Second head> Drilled out to a whopping 3/16. Built a 2mm parallel dual coil 7 wraps nicely spaced. Also 1.3 ohms. Ran the cotton in the hole, through the 1st coil, out the other side, looped then back through the 2nd coil. Left approx. 3mm hanging out each side. THIS BUILD IS THROWING RIDICULOUS VAPOR @ 40W!! Haven't pushed it harder as heat is wiping out the flavor around 45w. Edged down to 37 and this thing is rocking HARD. Zero dry hits chaining it, amazing flavor ala the 0.5 heads and the freaking cotton isn't even broken in yet. Every hit the flavor gets better and better.
>>>>>
Holy monkey bread on a stick Kanger, BUILD THESE COILS FOR THE MASSES!!<<<<<
The Arctic and it's subpar flavor just went in the drawer.
First I drilled a 3/32 hole opposite the cyclops airhole in the airflow ring. Yielded slight airflow increase but not a ton. Me thinks the choke point is the base of the heads.
First head> Drilled it out to 9/64. Wrapped a larger than stock (same 9/64) coil @ 8 wraps with nice spacing. 1.3 ohms. No real difference in wattage it can take and it tastes much like the 0.5 stock heads. Not worth the effort really.
Second head> Drilled out to a whopping 3/16. Built a 2mm parallel dual coil 7 wraps nicely spaced. Also 1.3 ohms. Ran the cotton in the hole, through the 1st coil, out the other side, looped then back through the 2nd coil. Left approx. 3mm hanging out each side. THIS BUILD IS THROWING RIDICULOUS VAPOR @ 40W!! Haven't pushed it harder as heat is wiping out the flavor around 45w. Edged down to 37 and this thing is rocking HARD. Zero dry hits chaining it, amazing flavor ala the 0.5 heads and the freaking cotton isn't even broken in yet. Every hit the flavor gets better and better.
>>>>>
Holy monkey bread on a stick Kanger, BUILD THESE COILS FOR THE MASSES!!<<<<<The Arctic and it's subpar flavor just went in the drawer.
An easier mod is to take a new coil and poke out the cotton. Rewick it and leave a little extra cotton (1 mm or so) sticking out of the sides of the holes. Should have exactly the same effect as drilling out the heads.
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