switch question again

[Nepherael]

Sorry couldn't get the edit option up in my other thread so here's my question.

I asked about what switch I would use to route power to 4 dif attys in this thread http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modders-forum/136759-got-big-idea-what-switch.html and got a few recommendations. Now I'm wondering is there a slider switch that doesn't work like ON-OFF-ON but has just something like 4 positions so I can slide from 1-3 and it would route powered from atty 1 to atty 3 without switching off and on all those times. If not I'm going to buy 1 slider and 1 rotary of what I need and test them both out in a AA slot.

I still don't even come close to understanding the throws and poles and whatnot but ill get there when I get it in the mail and can see it vs a wiring diagram.

So to recap I'm looking for a slide switch that has multiple positions instead of going off and on for each atty that its routing power to. And in the process if anyone has any insight to throws and poles and how to wire these switches up or some good links I would appreciate it.

Thank you very much,
Neph

 

[WillyB]

Have you done any investigating since your first post? You can't just sit around and wonder.

Google is your friend.

Switches

I'm looking for a slide switch that has multiple positions

Click me

Note, seeing as you've provided no details as what atties you are using or the volts, get a switch that can handle at least 2A, preferably 3A.

 

[Nepherael]

Well I gave full details about the voltage in the thread that is referenced in my post (that I am using the chip from the evercool mod which is variable and doesn't go over 5.5v). And also in the reference thread I said I have no clue about the technical stuff involved in those types of switches.
Since then yes I have done quite a bit of searching, though there has been nothing that I've been able to find that details anything higher than a 2pdt switch and in this application I am using something like a 4pdt(what that changes for how I wire or what the wiring diagram for it looks like for a rotary and/or slide I wouldn't know, omg maybe that's why I'm posting on the forum).
And also I didn't specifically ask for explanations I asked for a reference to a specific switch because I wouldn't know if I got the right one (for example I don't know if its rated at 0.5a 120vac what that means for what I'm using it for) and just said if anyone had any insight or links to maybe put your knowledge here as there are many more people surfing here than me and its always nice to have as much knowledge as possible in one place.

I don't act like a jackoff and expect everything to be given to me. I do my share of research and searching. If I ask something its because usually I need a deeper understanding of it that I couldn't find elsewhere or I would like a specific reference so I don't spend my hard earned money on something that I'll end up not being able to use. And sometimes I need something completely spelled out for me. Didn't know I had to take crap for it.

Thank you very much for your help, however sarcastic and douchey it was given, that link for switches was one of the most informative I've seen yet even though it still doesn't explain how to get from a dpdt to a 4pdt switch which is what I haven't been able to find. I haven't seen one diagram detailing how a 4pdt or even 3pdt switch works on the inside like your link shows for other switches even searching specifically for it

EDIT: and now looking a little closer at your link I can't tell if I need a multi way or multi pole switch or if they both can accomplish the same thing for what I'm doing. Multi way looks about right but that might be because I still don't quite understand a multi pole switch higher than a dpdt

 

[Nepherael]

Well it looks like I found what I was looking for. As your switch link was the first to detail "multi-WAY" switches I found what I actually needed was a single pole 4 throw (way) switch which I seem to only be able to find in a rotary. I could be mistaken but from the diagrams I'm seeing the poles are going to be my power sources (in this case just 1 source of power) and the throws (referred to as "ways" when three or more) are the attys. I could be mistaken but it seems sound in this application anyway. Anyone let me know if I just blew up your brain with ......edness.


EDIT: I think I've got the right stuff http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Cat=1114211&k=sp4t but on that page none of the current ratings are in the ballpark of the voltage I'm using and I don't know how to convert them down or even if you can to find out if they would work for 5.5v and under. Any insight to if any of switches would work would be greatly appreciated. Or even better a formula to convert something like 0.3a @ 125vac to what amps it could handle at 5.5vdc or even .3a @ 120vdc down to 5.5vdc so I would never have to ask about power rating again haha.

 

[WillyB]

Well the rotary we spoke of in your first post still makes the most sense. To handle high current means a large switch.

Amazon.com: Rotary Switch 2 Pole 5 Position: Automotive

It doesn't need to be 2 pole.

Choices from your link.

Rotary | Digi-Key

But maybe one of these type switches will work fine...

Digi-Key - 679-1874-ND (Manufacturer - SLB1470R)

As long as you don't need to be 'hot' switching between your atties. If you shut off your PV, then switch, then turn your PV back on it seems like you should be fine. The contacts are not being stressed, there is no arcing etc. You'll now only need a robust on/off master switch, those are easy to find.

 

[Nepherael]

Thank you very much. That mini slide looks good. I read a bit about arcing and metal transference and good to know that if I'm treating it right and not hot switching like you said (and I won't be, this will be a boxmod for people who don't like to sit with just one flavor but still want a juice fed variable voltage device) I can avoid excessive current arc cause I didn't really get a clear picture of it.

Excellent thank you again for helping me figure this whole deal out. And yeah that rotary you posted will work. Everyone else in that thread was recommending 4 pole double throw which wouldn't have worked at all I'm thinking. Another one I was looking at was Amazon.com: Power First 2VLT6 Rotary Switch, Maintained, SP4T, 6/3A: Industrial & Scientific even though its a bit big for a AA slot I think. But when I get some money around I'm going to get a couple rotary and slides and some different boxes maybe and see what I can do. I already had an offer to buy one of these if I can get it running (no doubt about that) but I want this baby to look as professional as possible.

 

[WillyB]

Trying to make cute little mods in AA battery boxes always leads to problems and involves too many compromises. Look at the crappy WetBox and the original Mr. Puffer. Mr. Puff moved on to a larger and very solid box.

Those little 99¢ AA boxes just don't cut it, finicky battery connectors, too thin plastic to properly hold the atty connector etc. Do you want it to be professional, or just look it?

A project box (Hammond makes many) will give you a sturdy mod with some room to use robust components, not ones that happen to fit.

If you were building for yourself the low amp switches would be fine as you understand the proper procedure. For others you may need to make it completely idiot proof.

 

[Nepherael]

Right on, good call. The only reason I've ever focused on a AA box is for size. This mod was going to be 2 of the 4AA boxes glued together. One side was going to have all 4 chambers with a bottom feeder and carto/atty and the other side would have 2 14500's an Evercool chip or equivalent and then the switch to route between whichever you wanted to vape.

I was thinking about some sort of other project box because ideally I wanted the hitters to be able to hide in the box so just the one you want to vape is showing but I guess I wouldn't know how to mount everything correctly in a project box that didn't already have batt slots and chambers, ha I guess I'm not that creative and I have to fit things to a box I'm using versus fitting a box to the things I want in it.

 

[Nuck]

If I read the requirements correctly it sounds like you could do it with 1 slide switch, 1 pushbutton and 4 mosfets. That way you could use a small pushbutton and you won't burn out the mini-slide switches. The pushbutton would lead to the switch and the switch would branch to one of the mosfets (n-channel).

 

[Nepherael]

If I read the requirements correctly it sounds like you could do it with 1 slide switch, 1 pushbutton and 4 mosfets. That way you could use a small pushbutton and you won't burn out the mini-slide switches. The pushbutton would lead to the switch and the switch would branch to one of the mosfets (n-channel).

I've read a bit about mosfet and basically from what I can tell they are like an inhibit pin on a chip, just so you can use any type of switch without pumping a bunch of current through it so u don't have to worry as much about current rating. But beyond knowing why they are used I don't know much else about them so I don't quite understand everything you said but using the mosfets so I don't burn out the slider sounds like a good idea. I'm going to be looking into all my options because like I said earlier I want this to be as quality as possible. So thank you

 

[Nepherael]

Look at the crappy WetBox

Haha its funny you mentioned the wetbox. I just bought one of the ones with the supposedly "redesigned" switches even after reading all the bad press. Only because moneys hard to come by and $50 vs over $100 is a nice compromise for something that may only last me a few months. But yeah I hear what you're saying.