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VV with touch switch and touch sensors for adjust the voltages up and down[/url]
Nice Jensb. Guessing you use touch switch w/ digital potentiometer.
TE, so the 5-6 turns of the pipe cutter dimples the inner tube enough to make the outer one fit snugly?
There are several ways you could get rid of the need to look for the switch without changing too much of the rest, but since you have the 3 port holes drilled in the bottom, I would suggest a matching triangle of small holes drilled just into the surface around the switch, or in future builds (or a rebuild) bevel the inner edge of the hole and have the center contact a slightly raised dome. You could rough up the surface around the switch, just enough to feel a difference, but that wouldn't match the slick clean look you have with these.
Oh, the smaller rings, are those just short portions of a coupler to get the length where you need it?
There are several ways you could get rid of the need to look for the switch without changing too much of the rest, but since you have the 3 port holes drilled in the bottom, I would suggest a matching triangle of small holes drilled just into the surface around the switch, or in future builds (or a rebuild) bevel the inner edge of the hole and have the center contact a slightly raised dome.
You could rough up the surface around the switch, just enough to feel a difference, but that wouldn't match the slick clean look you have with these.Oh, the smaller rings, are those just short portions of a coupler to get the length where you need it?
Well I'd like to see some actual voltage readings with that set-up. Using that circuit on a single cell will in fact have to impact performance and also influence (shorten) run times.
If you look at the datasheets you'll see lots of cryptic terms:
- Static Drain-to-Source On-Resistance
- Drain-to-Source Leakage Current
- Gate-to-Source Forward Leakage
- Gate-to-Source Reverse Leakage
Using an actual switch means getting the full potential out of a 3.7V cell (minus of course any small resistance it may introduce), and OFF means really OFF.
A little research shows a mosfet has 3 states.
- OFF, and with mosfets they are never really off completely, there is always a bit of current squeaking by (wasted).
- The middle or in between state, the Triode region (the least efficient state as drain to source resistance is at it's highest), is the one that concerns us.
- Fully ON, Saturated, where we would like to be.
What exactly does it take to get to 'fully on' and how does the Gate Threshold Voltage of 1V enter into the picture? What influence does that play in determining the voltage/current available to the atty and how does it affect the voltage that a cell needs to supply?
And while a real switch needs only two connections, a mosfet approach requires many more, a source for more additional resistance.
When BreakTru built his first copper he went to great lengths to minimize/eliminate any additional resistance between the cell and the atty. That's the way to approach things if you want the highest voltage and longest vape times your cell is capable of.
FWIW every resistance incurs a voltage drop when current is passing through it, and this will increase proportionally with current.
I hate to admit it but it was something that I saw in this vid that got me thinking.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...129-mosfet-touch-switch-simple-how-video.html
If you look at the datasheets you'll see lots of cryptic terms:
- Static Drain-to-Source On-Resistance
- Drain-to-Source Leakage Current
- Gate-to-Source Forward Leakage
- Gate-to-Source Reverse Leakage
Using an actual switch means getting the full potential out of a 3.7V cell (minus of course any small resistance it may introduce), and OFF means really OFF.
A little research shows a mosfet has 3 states.
- OFF, and with mosfets they are never really off completely, there is always a bit of current squeaking by (wasted).
- The middle or in between state, the Triode region (the least efficient state as drain to source resistance is at it's highest), is the one that concerns us.
- Fully ON, Saturated, where we would like to be.
What exactly does it take to get to 'fully on' and how does the Gate Threshold Voltage of 1V enter into the picture? What influence does that play in determining the voltage/current available to the atty and how does it affect the voltage that a cell needs to supply?
And while a real switch needs only two connections, a mosfet approach requires many more, a source for more additional resistance.
When BreakTru built his first copper he went to great lengths to minimize/eliminate any additional resistance between the cell and the atty. That's the way to approach things if you want the highest voltage and longest vape times your cell is capable of.
FWIW every resistance incurs a voltage drop when current is passing through it, and this will increase proportionally with current.
I hate to admit it but it was something that I saw in this vid that got me thinking.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...129-mosfet-touch-switch-simple-how-video.html
I just used the volt meter to check.
Fresh battery reads 4.22V, and with set-up it reads 4.2V.
So mosfet does not really turn it off? I guess I'll have to take the atty lose at night to save battery than (I'm pretty sure with out the atty it would break the circuit and make it really off). Thanks for the info.
Fresh battery reads 4.22V, and with set-up it reads 4.2V.
So mosfet does not really turn it off? I guess I'll have to take the atty lose at night to save battery than (I'm pretty sure with out the atty it would break the circuit and make it really off).
Thanks for the info.
I really like those, and how they fit together with no screwing. I'd like to ask how much would you accept for one?
Thank you,
ice
Thank you,
ice
Thank you TuErOs, I used your idea using couplers to make my new V.V. Booster mod with a digital pot. Not as nice as yours but more pleasing than the old copper pipe.
There's a wealth of stuff to be found on these forums.
Here's some member's mods from about a year ago.
Great update TuErOs, can't wait for the howto part. I'm curious how many times in 3 weeks you've had to clean them. You and Breaktru have gotten me interested in copper now.
I'm curious how many times in 3 weeks you've had to clean them. You and Breaktru have gotten me interested in copper now.
Another great video TuEr0s, Copper gets me excited. I've watched your videos several times.
Come on guys,,,,, Join the New Copper Club.
Come on guys,,,,, Join the New Copper Club.
Great update TuErOs, can't wait for the howto part.
BRASSO is my best friend. lol
I use 0000 very fine steelwool. I have a reel of it and it takes 1 second to run the wool around the diameter of the tube to create a brand new shine. Keep the grain always in the same direction. In other words, hold the wool in one hand while spinning the tube with the other hand. It's also a good idea to use between pipe to coupler (sleeve) for improved continuity between sections.
I want to build a copper mod, can someone lead me in the right direction on what parts to buy????? I went to home depot and was looking and was kinda lost. I thought 3/4" pipe but I want it to look smooth. What do I get???
Excellent work btw!
Excellent work btw!
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