I was really happy wirh the TFV4 until I built my first dual Clapton coil in the dual coil rba. After a few vapes the TFV4 got already very hot and tasted like s*** First I thought is was because of the new wire because was kanthal (I only vaped with nicr before) but no. After a while I found that if I fire the open atomizer so that i can see the coils, the hot glue under the center piece with the screws becomes soft and produces smeling and probably unhealthy fumes. How could they build this thing with such an inappropriate material? The single coil RBA seems also to have this glue and I don't wanna know how many of that is inside the ready to use heads considering how hot they get during vaping. First I was really hyped about the TFV4 but now I'm just too afraid to inhale with this thing one more time. I've read people complaining about burned tubber taste with this atomizer and know I know why.. Any thoughts?
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What kind of build and what kind of power are you throwing at it mate? PEEK starts to melt at around 650F (and don't get me started on what happens to juice at those temps).
I just built a dual coil with Ni80/Kanthal A1 26ga+32ga Clapton with 5 turns each, total: 0.35Ohms. The coils had a good glow, no hotspots whatsoever. Isn't the insulator supposed to be heat-resistant? Why would it melt? That's strange. The whole atomizer gets very hot with this setup. Maybe the contact surface of this relatively thick wire with the core is too high so that there is too many heat transfered? I dont think this is supposed to happen. Also the TFV4 Mini RBA has a similar clapton wire pre-build and is shiped with such a replacement wire..
if I may ask, where'd you get your tfv4/rba section? As much as I dont want to say it, you may not have gotten authentic parts.
As mentioned, PEEK begins liquifying around 650*F. So even t 30w, you'd have to hold down the button for quite some time. The only other factors I can think is if your mod wasnt adjusting the ohms as you fired (like how Xcube II doesnt), or the mod isnt capable of step down and was just dumping voltage.
Ultimately though, I have had the clapton rebuildable section up to 180W (Daredevil, am I?) with no melted or disfgured insulators.
As mentioned, PEEK begins liquifying around 650*F. So even t 30w, you'd have to hold down the button for quite some time. The only other factors I can think is if your mod wasnt adjusting the ohms as you fired (like how Xcube II doesnt), or the mod isnt capable of step down and was just dumping voltage.
Ultimately though, I have had the clapton rebuildable section up to 180W (Daredevil, am I?) with no melted or disfgured insulators.
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