haha of cos i do.. but i m wondering how do people vape at a very high wattage when their resistance is high at the same time.. wont it burn the coil like instantly?
TFV4 mini coil build
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thanks.. i will go check that out.. but when we adjust the wattage, at the same time the voltage changes... and since our battery is only 3.7v, adjusting the wattage where the voltage is above 3.7v will be dangerous, right?
sorry im not from engineering background nor strong in physics so pardon my knowledge..
on regulated mod, they use a boost circuit to increase the voltage output through a combination of diodes inductors.(something you don't have to know)
as to safety, the main key point to it is the amp rating on your battery and how much amp(current) your build requires. All this calculation can be found on steam engine.
as to safety, the main key point to it is the amp rating on your battery and how much amp(current) your build requires. All this calculation can be found on steam engine.
oh ok,. i think i get u know.. so even when the mod states its over 3.7volts, its bcos the mod itself has some tools that helps to increase the voltage?
then people vape at high wattage bcos they prefer warm vapes? is that it?
yes for first qn and no for 2nd, high wattage is dependent on the coil build itself. There's only a limited range of watt ideally you should play around for each particular build, check steam engine the right hand side for the heat flux calculation as I mentioned above I like mine around 170-220
thanks a lot war bro..
i just build myself a 1ohm kanthal a1 coil.. more wraps then previous.. finally the taste is back.. but i got dry hit on my 4th pull.. i think my wicking has some problem...
but really improving a lot now.. thanks once agian!
Your 0.65ohm wire, you should be ideally vaping at 3.8 to 4.0v which is around 23 to 25 watts.
Like what @WarA says. The battery voltage doesn't matter in a regulated device. In your steam engine for ohm law, just locked your resistance and play around with the wattage.
I have experience with both 0.5 ohm and 1ohm coil and they both give flavorful vape. So it really depends on the user to adjust properly. Vaping is not one size fit all after all hahaha
Like what @WarA says. The battery voltage doesn't matter in a regulated device. In your steam engine for ohm law, just locked your resistance and play around with the wattage.
I have experience with both 0.5 ohm and 1ohm coil and they both give flavorful vape. So it really depends on the user to adjust properly. Vaping is not one size fit all after all hahaha
`my 0.65 ohm at 23 watts will give me a bad dry hit and burnt taste... dunno why... maybe wicking problem..
anyway for the tfv4 mini, must the wick be covering the hole where the juice flows in? so that it absorbs the juice?
anyway for the tfv4 mini, must the wick be covering the hole where the juice flows in? so that it absorbs the juice?
I vaped using bellus, dual coil 0.5 ohm, normal kanthal microcoil at 30 wats. No probblem so far
Most probably used too much cotton and clogged the coil? There are three key points to take note of when wicking.
1. Always make sure your cotton is fluffy and puffy and doesn't look "solid" If your cotton look "solid" it will have difficulty wicking. An analogy will be using a mesh tea strainer. The smaller the mesh, the harder the liquid will pass through.
2. Make sure to always cover the juice hole/channel (but also keep it puffy, don't pack it in too tight) so that the cotton can "catch" the juice and the liquid won't flood the chamber/deck. Ergo no leakage.
3. Make sure that your cotton does not go through the coil too tightly. Cotton expand when it's wet and if it's already so tight when dry, imagine what happen if it's wet and it expand. It will confirm clog the coil and the juice will not flow to the middle part of the cotton wick. (The middle part of cotton will then dry out faster and thus burn easier)
anyone experiencing leaking through the air vents? mine just kept leaking out... making a mess all over the place..
tried different wicking methods like scottish roll, pancake wick.. not helping..
tried different wicking methods like scottish roll, pancake wick.. not helping..
The key thing is to make sure your wick ends are covering the juice hole/ or very short strands into the juice hole (Too much = bad juice flow = dry hits)
try -o- coil instead of _o_ with reference to the posts, just lift the coil up enough so it doesnt touch the air hole (this will reduce the overall length of wick = more efficiency)
leaking through air holes typically means either your wicking in the coil is not tight enough (while stationary)
If it leaks after filling = you need to close airhole before filling to stabilise internal pressure (not 100% foolproof due to lack of juice cutoff control)
on side note, anyone has their clapton rba positive post shaky? My clapton deck is probably first batch where they didn't punch properly the air shaft, loses connection all the time.
I turn mine upside down after filling and give it a puff or 2 and dont have no leaks
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