~The Billet BoX~

[AirborneRecon]

Yes with a full tank using the Billet Bridge. Which is very tough to do without making a mess.

i lube my o ring a little and have never had an issue and my o ring is very snug

i wish someone made one of those silicone covers for the billet box like they made for the old ipods... i try very hard to take good care of my stuff but in my work theres never a safe place for my vape gear

 

[Peter_C]

Its the little things in life that create the most replies.

 

[BlueSnake]

I just understand that the Billet Bridge is in two separate pieces with nothing whatsoever to hold those two pieces together. It is a tricky proposition to remove a Billet Bridge from a full tank to say the least. Nor can I see any reason to remove a full tank when using the Billet Bridge. Any maintenance should be performed when empty or near empty.

All this seems like making a mountain out of the proverbial mole hill.

OK I was just able to remove a full tank with the Billet Bridge installed with no problem. Other than being extremely careful when unscrewing the top cap. I still see no reason to do this.

 

[AirborneRecon]

Kat i believe consistency in the diameter of the o ring is to blame, i have a hard time believing that DD or atmistiques CNC milling machines are inconsistent in any way, o rings are made cheap fast and without inspection for most things a 10% difference wouldnt matter, but if you compare the surface area of one of the tank o rings to the one on the brass screw, theres a big difference and the screw ring has a lot more area to grab the top of the bridge than the tank ring does. I would venture to guess that theres no problem with cartos as there is two tank o rings providing resistance to movement

 

[Katdarling]

Kat i believe consistency in the diameter of the o ring is to blame, i have a hard time believing that DD or atmistiques CNC milling machines are inconsistent in any way, o rings are made cheap fast and without inspection for most things a 10% difference wouldnt matter, but if you compare the surface area of one of the tank o rings to the one on the brass screw, theres a big difference and the screw ring has a lot more area to grab the top of the bridge than the tank ring does. I would venture to guess that theres no problem with cartos as there is two tank o rings providing resistance to movement

for fear of a snakish reprimand, i'll type quietly.

Air/Con, that makes very good sense. My question then becomes... does the screw O-ring not hold a carto tube in the same way as it does the B Bridge tube?

And just a thought.... you mentioned the DD and Atmis CNC milling procedures as being incredibly consistent. With that, I whole heartedly agree and I do believe the screws are identical from one B Box to the next, yes?

 

[AirborneRecon]

I just understand that the Billet Bridge is in two separate pieces with nothing whatsoever to hold those two pieces together. It is a tricky proposition to remove a Billet Bridge from a full tank to say the least. Nor can I see any reason to remove a full tank when using the Billet Bridge. Any maintenance should be performed when empty or near empty.

All this seems like making a mountain out of the proverbial mole hill.

i wouldnt even attempt removing the bridge from the tank unless its almost empty, but ive swapped a nearly full tank for another one often for a flavor change which is the sole purpose (for me) in owning a second tank, if the bridge stopped me from doing that i would have sold it a very long time ago. while its a small issue its one that a little discussion is likely to fix, and doing so in a forum such as this means what was once a problem becomes a non-issue

 

[AirborneRecon]

for fear of a snakish reprimand, i'll type quietly.

Air/Con, that makes very good sense. My question then becomes... does the screw O-ring not hold a carto tube in the same way as it does the B Bridge tube?

And just a thought.... you mentioned the DD and Atmis CNC milling procedures as being incredibly consistent. With that, I whole heartedly agree and I do believe the screws are identical from one B Box to the next, yes?

yes the screw ring holds it the same, but with a carto you have an upper and lower tank oring holding it in place, with the bridge you have one o ring, half the resistance to movement. think of how much easier it is to push a carto out of the tank once its past the first ring... another thing i would do is change the tank o rings for new ones, they do degrade and compress.

as for the machining, with a CNC mill/lathe the operator writes the code into the computer to make that part, that code includes tolerances for size, given the tolerances used on everything else we are discussing i bet you would need a micrometer to tell the difference between two screws

 

[Krisma]

One scenario might be you need/want to switch out your bridge with a carto or diver/Sophia. Remove the full tank and hot swap. (Not sure what you call it in the states but to me a hot swap is replacing the inner whatever with a new one in a full tank)

If you can hot swap a carto in a full tank you can hot swap the bridge with a carto. I have carto drivers but you can use a spare carto. Easy no mess

In DP's case he had the same prob that I did where the inner (carto, bridge, diver etc) got stuck and pulled out from the tank.

 

[Katdarling]

i wouldnt even attempt removing the bridge from the tank unless its almost empty, but ive swapped a nearly full tank for another one often for a flavor change which is the sole purpose (for me) in owning a second tank, if the bridge stopped me from doing that i would have sold it a very long time ago. while its a small issue its one that a little discussion is likely to fix, and doing so in a forum such as this means what was once a problem becomes a non-issue

Bravo, Air/Con. One more to add to my book, Life lessons learned via vaping.

yes the screw ring holds it the same, but with a carto you have an upper and lower tank oring holding it in place, with the bridge you have one o ring, half the resistance to movement. think of how much easier it is to push a carto out of the tank once its past the first ring... another thing i would do is change the tank o rings for new ones, they do degrade and compress.

as for the machining, with a CNC mill/lathe the operator writes the code into the computer to make that part, that code includes tolerances for size, given the tolerances used on everything else we are discussing i bet you would need a micrometer to tell the difference between two screws

I had not dissected to that degree, so thank you! I really never thought about the O-ring diffs or how that even came into play. That makes perfect sense.

As for the second bolded statement, again, Bravo. My sentiments precisely.

 

[BlueSnake]

for fear of a snakish reprimand, i'll type quietly.

Air/Con, that makes very good sense. My question then becomes... does the screw O-ring not hold a carto tube in the same way as it does the B Bridge tube?

And just a thought.... you mentioned the DD and Atmis CNC milling procedures as being incredibly consistent. With that, I whole heartedly agree and I do believe the screws are identical from one B Box to the next, yes?

I'm not trying to reprimand anyone. It's just common sense that the Billet Bridge is two separate pieces with nothing at all to hold them together. If the oring catches in the top of the Billet Bridge it will pull apart. As I wrote above I was just able to remove a full tank with a Billet Bridge installed without a problem. I did like you sugestested putting pressure on top of the tank and slowly and carefully unscrewed the cap without moving the top of the Billet Bridge out of place. Then the tank came out like normal.

I still think it's a fairly risky maneuver and should not be done casually. Of course I like you have many devices and don't often change Flavors in any given device unless I'm trying a new flavor.

Saying all this someone said awhile ago on this thread that the brass fitting oring was the same size as a standard drip tip oring. That may not be the case. I find the oring size for the brass cap is 6mm ID X 1.5mm making the OD 9mm. This is what is on my brass cap now. It seals but does not leak and I am able to remove the full tank with a Billet Bridge. CAREFULLY.

 

[Katdarling]

I'm not trying to reprimand anyone. It's just common sense that the Billet Bridge is two separate pieces with nothing at all to hold them together. If the oring catches in the top of the Billet Bridge it will pull apart. As I wrote above I was just able to remove a full tank with a Billet Bridge installed without a problem. I did like you sugestested putting pressure on top of the tank and slowly and carefully unscrewed the cap without moving the top of the Billet Bridge out of place. Then the tank came out like normal.

I still think it's a fairly risky maneuver and should not be done casually. Of course I like you have many devices and don't often change Flavors in any given device unless I'm trying a new flavor.

Saying all this someone said awhile ago on this thread that the brass fitting oring was the same size as a standard drip tip oring. That may not be the case. I find the oring size for the brass cap is 6mm ID X 1.5mm making the OD 9mm. This is what is on my brass cap now. It seals but does not leak and I am able to remove the full tank with a Billet Bridge. CAREFULLY.

That's all I saw.


It's true, Snake. It is a riskier proposition to remove a tank with a B Bridge installed. I do see your point, perfectly.

As far as "standard" sized O-rings for drip tips? I really am not sure that exists in reality. I have a <coughcough> few drip tips and they don't all have the same sized O-rings. But that's not a discussion for here..... nor is it really important! D'oh. Perhaps it's "Get off ECF, KD" time.

Lubya Snakester.

 

[AirborneRecon]

o rings for vaping products seem to be lacking a standard size to me every company seems to use something a little different, we cant even get the fit of a drip tip consistent between manufacturers

 

[Katdarling]

Drip tips, consistency...... Ohhhhh-rings make the world go "round".


Seg-u-way... just cuz I'm in that kind of mood.

 

[BlueSnake]

I agree with both of you and that was my point. There is no such thing as "standard" especially for drip tips. So it's very possible after that was posted in this thread that some people may have the wrong size oring on their brass screw plug on their BBs.

 

[DPLongo22]

All this because I wanted/needed a clean box. Who knew?

Certainly interesting reading to wake up to. I feel like I stepped into Provi thread.

In summary, I will put the o-ring back into the screw, or replace the screw, once the tank gets down near half.
I will also lube it up good (the o-ring, that is).
I will NOT try to remove the tank (from the B Box) again, when its full and a B Bridge (thank you, LinguisticKat!) is inside, since it appears THAT is the issue.

Krisma: Hot swap carries the same meaning here, and I've done it MANY times, both with a B Bridge and a carto. NO issue (Snake) if you use one of those sealing carto tools (such as the Blaster, etc..). Piece of cake.

Now --- anybody got a smoke?



OK. $hizstorm at work began for me last night. I need to put on some protective gear and get to it. Have a great day (and possibly WEEK from the early looks of things) everyone!

 

[aleks1502]

Good afternoon. Has anyone already tried the new Aspire BVC? What you thought best, 1,6ohm - 1,8ohm - 2,1ohm ? Thank you.

 

[DPLongo22]

Good afternoon. Has anyone already tried the new Aspire BVC? What you thought best, 1,6ohm - 1,8ohm - 2,1ohm ? Thank you.

Hi Aleks. Yes, many here have tried them and most seem to like them a lot. My personal preference is for the highest resistance available, so I choose the 2.1's. But that IS a personal choice, so I'd suggest you try each to see which is best for you.

But they're definitely winners, performance-wise.

 

[aleks1502]

DPLongo22 Thank you. How would you describe your feelings when using 1,6ohm?

 

[DPLongo22]

DPLongo22 Thank you. How would you describe your feelings when using 1,6ohm?

I'm unable to answer that because I haven't tried them. I have no interest because the lower you go, the quicker you burn through batteries. That's why I prefer the higher resistance options.

I'm sure I'd be fine with them, at a lower voltage, but wouldn't like the battery impact.

 

[UA72Riddle]

Time for me to get some DP edumacation....

Why does lower ohms run down batteries faster when higher ohms require more voltage? I'm seriously asking...not being an .........